I have a tranny case leak that needs a repair. Here is a pic of the leak, which when warmed up is about one large drop a second.


Click to view attachment

I figure that I should do a real weld for the permanent fix, but would like to do a temp fix so I can drive over to my welder brother-in law about a 100 miles away.

So, what is the best liquid weld goop for this type of a hole (about 1-2 mm in diameter)?

Here is a somewhat in focus close up of the hole.

Click to view attachment

The hole is about 1-2mm.

Is JB Weld high heat a good option?

The auto parts guy said the Permetex Gear Oil is better since gear oil will come into contact.

Or should I just not do the liquid weld, and only do a real welding job?

If so, what are the best welds for a tranny (aluminum or magnesium?) case?

Thanks for any and all advice!

Your trans case is magnesium. Good luck

David

Drill it, tap it and install a plug.

Or

Find a new transmission...

Thanks for the idea.
How thick is the case wall?
What size plug?
Permanent welded plug or removeable?

I would use a 1/8 NPT plug. There should be enough material to tap it. If the case is magnesium, you will not be able to weld it. If you try, it will be a spectacular firework display. The magnesium will ignite and not go out until it consumes itself.

In addition to that i would also ask myself how the heck did that hole get there in the first place.

It would be a no brainer to try the JB weld.

I had an oil leak in a Dodge 440, only above a certain RPM(at higher oil pressure). it was a thin spot in the block casting near an oil galley. I widened the slight crack and wedged in a small sheet metal screw coated with JB weld. Never leaked again.

Just get the case as clean as possible . . .

Just a small correction, magnesium is weldable and welds quite like aluminum. I've never done it but have heard is is actually just a little easier to weld than aluminum. You just can't get shavings too hot or they will burn. You really need to put a lot of energy into magnesium to make it burn (we use magnesium castings extensive on some of our racecars and you really have to try to burn the chips left over from machining).

Welding dirty transmissions does suck though so I wouldn't recommend it! The drill and tap or JB weld method is much better.

Welding is possible,but,the damaged area will require thorough cleaning with brake cleaner and filing.
The plug method is a good idea provided you use a material that will not react with the magnesium.
The epoxy is the cheapest and quickest needing no removal,prep as for welding though,clean clean.
Do not use the JB as it contains iron and will corrode.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/5-minute-e...nge-25ml/947622

I used JB weld on a old 30+ year old, Campbell Hausfeld air compressor that had a chunk of the shaft where the key way is, got chipped out, and was not enough meat left to support the pulley. I just sanded it a bit, sprayed it with brake parts cleaner, and got a new key, and then turned it on it's side, and JB welded the whole end together as one unit. Still working today. I wasn't going to dump a bunch of $ into an old compressor.

Oh yeah,I used the stuff for similar repairs,indispensable.
Glue the wings together with a tailored epoxy for aluminum etched surfaces.
Filled the injector ports of a cylinder head after drilling a 1/16" hole and inserting a length of pin.Works to this day 16yrs later.

Click to view attachment

Head from a '94 Cavalier,adapting a '91 manifold.
Port injectors needed a port hump cast into the head,filled with Epoxy.
The pin is to ensure the filling never falls into the valve.
Careful with that drill.The old manifold held the filling in place.
Otherwise a massive air leak.

I'm another vote for installing a plug. As a side note, anyone interested should check out the devcon line of products for all your liquid weld and patch job needs. It's the real deal, all good stuff. They have epoxies with stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, ceramic and bronze. They have a good quick patch for emergencies called fastmetal. I've used it personally on a cracked wheel loader transmission case, good temporary fix.

If the hole is small, say 1/8" just run a small tap in the hole to give it some teeth for the epoxy to grip. I've used Devcon Liquid Aluminum on a number of things including fixing a crack on a Triumph TR4 thermostat housing.

I've used JB Weld on 911 mag intake manifolds before and it held up just fine.
This was to repair a crack in one of the mounting holes on the end. It's a spot that gets tightened down too hard and can crack. The JB Weld held and still is....think I may still have it and will take a picture.
The only thing is it was off the car and cleaned up and prepped before using.
Might be harder with the leak for it to dry properly....

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...81606&rt=r3

Try this adhesive.

JB Weld will work fiine, it's whats used on the 6 oil galley plugs.

A little back story...

This is the replacement tranz for the one he had explode on him. He has, in fact, had two issues that I have never seen, and that suck, happen to him. Do not get on a plane with Hank914....just sayin

Seriously, that hole was missed by me. When I had that core, it never leaked a drop and I thought nothing of it. I dont usually have to inspect cases as they have always been obvious. There was no trauma to this case based on the condition of the rest of the case and area around the hole.

I think the tap and plug method is brilliant. I was only thinking quicksteel or JB.

Hank, let me know the total of whatever you need to buy/do to have it fixed and I will get a check off to you.

Every one of these solutions, except maybe drilling and tapping, requires a CLEAN surface wherever the glue will have to stick. That means removing EVERY trace of gear oil from the area involved. As the hole is on the bottom, that means pulling the gear cluster and cleaning the inside of the case, flushing the hole/crack with a good solvent, turning it upside down, and heating the area to "sweat" any remaining contaminant from the problem area. With the case still warm, apply the JB Weld or other appropriate epoxy to the affected area and give it 24 hours to dry. DO NOT use the quick cure stuff, as you sacrifice a good part of the effectiveness of the repair in exchange for the speedy cure time.

Edit: I would certainly try to determine the thickness of the affected area before I chose a tapered pipe plug. If it's as thin as I think it may be, there might not be enough metal to ensure a good seal.

The Cap'n

I can verify, but a 1/8" or slightly bigger plug should be no prob. I agree that any epoxy will need absolute clean. There may be products out there that are specific for this kind of thing and are activated by petroleum. Not sure.

You can patch a leaking case without getting it perfectly clean, but its a huge pain in the dink. Multiple steps and products required. Definitely not worth the headache for such a small hole. The plug is where its at.

I have a Case that ran afoul of a wayward axle shaft and was subsequently welded at the bell housing. While it can be done, special attention is needed not only for the cleaning prior to the weld, but also the rod material for filler. Mine was welded by a VERY experienced welder that is a welding troubleshooter of a major aircraft manufacture in the Northwest. Long story short it can be welded but you have to be careful.

For a small spot like Hank's, no prob to just plug weld. For more extravagant work, you have to consider warpage and plan accordingly. It is a learned skill. I understand the basics, but that is it.

One more tip if you do drill and tap it. Coat the drill bit and tap with grease and go slowly. Take them out after a few turns and clean the metal shavings off, put on fresh grease. Be extra careful when you reach the insides.

This is a tip from having to tap motorcycle heads (aluminum) for helicoils while still on the bike, and keeps the shavings from entering the main cavity.

Thanks everybody for the comments and advice.

I went with the "drill out the hole, thread the hole, and then put in a metal screw to fill up the hole" route. See up thread for the pictures of the leak and the hole after it drained. See below for the pics of my patch job.

Looks great

Pic after my repair job. I screwed in a metal screw, and coated it with Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker.Click to view attachment

I used a hex head metal screw with a flathead top that allowed room to goop it.

Did it work? If it gives you issues, change to NPT as it will be self sealing.

And then I had to go have a few while it cured for 24 hours.

Then I had to it for about 10 miles in the garage on jack stands (with a book on the gas pedal and it in 5th gear) since I did not want to coat the neighborhood streets with oil if my fix did not work. Since that seemed to work well, I it took for a test drive. After about 75-100 miles and 3 plus hours, this is what the fix looks like now.


Click to view attachment

So yes, there is some yellow, which is oil. But minimal, if any drippage.

Ya, that is why they use pipe tread on the plugs, like Mike B said in post 6. With that head on the screw, I dont think you can get a washer under there to seal it.

Mike, I was just about to PM you about Hank914's old transmission. Did the autopsy help determine cause of death? lots of speculation, but no answers

So, the fix was pretty cheap:
Advice was free (thanks, Mike B)
Metal screw was 50 cents
Permatex was about $5.99
3quarts of 80-90 tranny oil was about $8/each, or $24

Total about $30

Send him a new one one