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ggenovez |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 8-December 14 From: DFW Member No.: 18,201 Region Association: None ![]() |
Just like the title says, anybody fabricate their own floor pans?
I have some 20ga sheet metal that I want to fabricate into floor pans. I was thinking of making a mold and using a wooden dowel to press in some ridges. If anybody has done this before and can shed some light as to how to make the molds, how deep to go, does the sheet metal overall size change... Thanks |
bandjoey |
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#2
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bandjoey ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,934 Joined: 26-September 07 From: Bedford Tx Member No.: 8,156 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Restoration Design. Unless your just in love with metal work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)
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mgp4591 |
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#3
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,616 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() ![]() |
In the process of designing them as we speak. Next tool on the list is an Eastwood bead roller for strength but I'm using heavier gauge than that, like 16 or better. That way I also bring them up the inside of the longs as a stiffening kit. Seems like the longs are the only solid part of the floor- even the bottom of the console and seat crossribs are gone... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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rick 918-S |
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#4
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,932 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
20 ga? Too light.
16 ga will not bead roll. Why reinvent the wheel. Restoration design sells any combination of floor pan you need. |
Tom_T |
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#5
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TMI.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,321 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Restoration Design. Unless your just in love with metal work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) With the cost of building the jigs, tools involved, etc. - let alone your time (time is money) - it seems more cost effective & time efficient just to order them. http://www.restoration-design.com/store/category/914 I think that AA also sells them, along with other metal body resto/repair parts. > FYI - a long time ago George told me that AA had jointly developed them with the prior owner of RD in MI (jigs, tooling, etc.) & co-funded the start-up - & then that guy skipped on the JV with all the stuff & business. So before all the AA-bashers start in, know that there was some history there before most of you were even into 914s! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) The current RD owner in Canada got the stuff out of a BK or something, so not at all involved in that debacle. Have fun which ever way you go! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Tom /////// |
ThePaintedMan |
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#6
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
I did just one section of floor pans on my car, mostly because it was practice and I was trying to be cheap.
Link to my thread After all was said and done, it was no cheaper to do it that way and they'll never look like the originals. Restoration Design is where it's at and in the future I'll buy as much metal as I need from them to eliminate having to fabricate my own stuff. The money and time you spend on things like grinding wheels, wooden bucks, etc, is not worth it. Even if you only use a section of the pan you buy from them, you can probably sell the rest to someone else on here who might need the other half. |
SirAndy |
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#7
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Resident German ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 42,200 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
With the cost of building the jigs, tools involved, etc. - let alone your time (time is money) - it seems more cost effective & time efficient just to order them. http://www.restoration-design.com/store/category/914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
mgp4591 |
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#8
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,616 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() ![]() |
20 ga? Too light. 16 ga will not bead roll. Why reinvent the wheel. Restoration design sells any combination of floor pan you need. I know Rick, and I think we had this conversation (or some part of it) in Moab last Sept. If I brace it correctly, I won't need to bead roll it. I already have most of the tools and making templates is no problem- my time working on this is all to my benefit so I really don't count it as money lost. I'd have to make other pieces to tie into the Resto Design bits anyway and all those parts would be 700 bucks or more. This way I stiffen up the car while I put a floor in it for alot less. I think... I've seen the Resto parts and they're really great. Nothing I'm doing can't be undone by someone else later if they want... and if I ever sell. |
ggenovez |
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#9
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 8-December 14 From: DFW Member No.: 18,201 Region Association: None ![]() |
Thanks guys.
I only need to do the rear half on both side. I have both 16 and 20 gauge. the 3 reasons I want to do it is 1. I have the metal sitting there. 2. I personally think the cost for the rear half + seat reinforcement + bracket + hinges is way overpriced. 3. It's a learning experience George (paintedman) I did find your link interesting on how you created your floor pans. What I was looking for is something like this (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1.wp.com-18201-1421776816.1.jpg) found it here http://www.themetalsurgeon.com/2014/12/flo...olet-part-four/ Still think i'm on crack? let me know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
CptTripps |
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#10
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:: Punch and Pie :: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,585 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Tuscaloosa, AL and Akron, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
Most people only need the short-rear. And for $99...I can't see how that's considered overpriced...even by "cheap ass 914 owner" standards.
http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP345B |
SirAndy |
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#11
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Resident German ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 42,200 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Most people only need the short-rear. And for $99...I can't see how that's considered overpriced...even by "cheap ass 914 owner" standards. http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP345B (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you think 100 bucks for a correct pan replacement panel is "way overpriced" i'd hate to see some of the other "repairs" and "upgrades" you've made to your car. Seriously, i spent more than that on booze on a Saturday night ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
ggenovez |
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#12
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 8-December 14 From: DFW Member No.: 18,201 Region Association: None ![]() |
If it was $100 we would not be having this discussion.
I need to complete (left and right) rear $205, The seat reinforcement $25, brackets 84 and hinges $100. Now at $400+ SH it's becoming more expensive. Add to whatever else I can't see or haven't reached and the project becomes very expensive. parts like the engine tray are beyond my skill but if its a matter of pressing some pieces of wood into sheet metal, I'm more than capable. |
CptTripps |
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#13
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:: Punch and Pie :: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,585 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Tuscaloosa, AL and Akron, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
This kit has all you need for $350.
http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/KIT-H We're just saying...there are MANY that have been here before, and we all agree....just buy the prefabbed stuff. Either way. Good luck! We'll all be watching and love to see progress threads. |
ThePaintedMan |
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#14
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
I don't think you're smoking crack to consider it. But again, you will almost surely come out on top and end up with a much nicer/easier install with the pre-formed pieces. RD makes great stuff.
You could buy the rear section from them and see if you can sources the hinges and mounts from someone cutting up a parts car. That's what I did. |
toolguy |
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#15
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 2-April 11 From: San Diego / El Cajon Member No.: 12,889 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Please take this as constructive. .
What is your time and frustration worth after you subtract the materials cost?? And when you're finished it's going to be apparent forever that someone homemade a replacement panel rather than purchase the correct part. . Sounds a bit like "penny wise and pound foolish" as the old saying goes. . |
ggenovez |
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#16
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 8-December 14 From: DFW Member No.: 18,201 Region Association: None ![]() |
Good idea George,
Where did you source your parts? |
ThePaintedMan |
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#17
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Just place a WTB in the Classifieds section. There are several cars being cut up at the moment I believe.
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saigon71 |
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#18
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,014 Joined: 1-June 09 From: Dillsburg, PA Member No.: 10,428 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Post #25 and #185 shows how I fabricated pieces of the floor pan.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...gon71++progress I agree with everyone else - it's just not worth it...buy it from Restoration Design. If you choose to move forward with fabrication - use 18GA sheet metal for the floor pans. Also, before making a decision, take a close look at your center tunnel on the bottom. After going through all the work of fabricating what I needed for the floor pans, I discovered my center tunnel was shot (hidden beneath undercoating). I ended up buying the rear half floor pan anyhow and cutting out what I needed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
mr914 |
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#19
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914 Hillbilly ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 576 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Lincoln NE Member No.: 131 Region Association: None ![]() |
I agree, the prefab from RD is the way to go.
Some of the bits you can buy from board members, but you may spend hours grinding welds, blasting etc... Dan then, still, you may have gaps from the new pans to the old body... Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
bigkensteele |
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#20
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Major Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,200 Joined: 30-August 04 From: Cincinnati, OH Member No.: 2,660 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Too bad you aren't closer. I have a full passenger side pan that I would gladly sell for $100 but I have no idea what it would cost to ship.
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