Stoddard producing new 914-6 heat exchangers, Appear to be high-quality factory reproductions Options

[bigkensteele]

Well, my first preliminary check tonight is somewhat discouraging. I took a small level and laid it across the flanges to see if they were on or close to a plane. They are not.

QA is a thing of the past ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Yeah, that was my thought is well. How hard would it be to pass it through a QA station where somebody simply placed a jig across the flanges to verify that they are flat and the holes line up. Is that really too much to ask when these things cost three thousand freaking dollars?!?!?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[toolguy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Yeah, that was my thought is well. How hard would it be to pass it through a QA station where somebody simply placed a jig across the flanges to verify that they are flat and the holes line up. Is that really too much to ask when these things cost three thousand freaking dollars?!?!?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

When I had the initial problem 6 months ago and reported it to Stoddard, I made them a bolt stud location pattern and sent it to the man who was supposedly in charge of their Six exchanger program. . They have that pattern, and said they would check every set they received before being shipped to customers. . apparently seeing the latest newer pictures they still haven't got the assembly process figured out. .
From talking with them, they said the tubes were assembled on a jig. . my guess is they are flexing the tubes to weld the collector flange, and when the heat distortion cools at the fixed welded collector, the head mount flanges become out of specs. . You'd expect the guy welding the mess would realize when he tries to pull the set off the jig and they stick on the studs, something isn't quite right and remove them from shipping. .
For what it's worth, no way would I torque a stud in an aluminum head enough to pull that crooked flange parallel to the port. . just asking for trouble and exactly who is going to have to pay to fix your stripped head stud hole. .

[Cairo94507]

That is disappointing. How hard would it be to mill the flange flat, assuming the bolt holes are in the proper orientation?

[toolguy]

That is disappointing. How hard would it be to mill the flange flat, assuming the bolt holes are in the proper orientation?

Milling it would take 5 minutes. . however figuring a way to fixture it on the mill table and the other flanges without distorting then from their 'relaxed ' position would be a nightmare. .
I've been a machinist for years and I can't imagine a realistic way of doing it given the sheet metal heater box under the flanges. . nothing to grip. . .
Then again, for 3 grand they should be perfect outta the box. . and if you screw up the exchanger I'd bet they be non returnable. .

[Maltese Falcon]

Agreed, once the upper and lower stamped metal shells have been crimped in place; it's game over for holding the HB in a machining/milling operation. That is, if you really don't mind having all of the clamping dents in your once handsome $3,000.00 heater boxes.
Even while holding spec in hot welding jigs, if released too soon from the jig to cool down, primary header tubes move like snakes.
Several normalizing techniques are used to bring back into spec, a slight amount of surfacing and all is well.
Like Toolguy said, once the metal shells are on where do you place the hold down clamps ?
Idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) how about; QC the primaries after welding, then crimping on the shells.
Example part that we build, the v10 BMW m5/m6 pulse tuned headers.
We use welding jigs and then we bolt each header into cooling jigs. Final flange surface machining is only a razor thin cleanup.
QC is just part of the job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[mepstein]

I would not touch them but call stoddard for a call tag to pick up and refund money in full.

[Cairo94507]

All I want for Christmas is a set of Marty-made heat exchanger/headers for my Six. Damn, those are beautiful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[rick 918-S]

I would think the jig would require holding both the muffler flange and the head flanges at the same time. I wonder what they are doing with the rejects..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Peashooter]

What you need is a machine similar to what I saw during a visit to Ollie's shop. It is basically a large custom made belt sander that they use to resurface the case halves. That way you could level out all three flanges at once.
Sad to hear of the poor quality for a premium price!

[Mikey914]

No good deed goes unpunished. I worked out a deal for Ken to get these as a thanks for help on the dash, I just dropped them an email. Sorry for the Hassle on this Ken. I hope we can get this resolved shortly. I'm sure Stoddard will do the right thing.
Mark

[sbsix]

I just got mine a couple of weeks ago, but it will be a LONG time before I install them. Is it safe to assume that they would be the corrected version? I am a bit nervous now.

Toolguy on this forum has a template for fitment based on his OE HEs. I would email him to ask for a paper copy to transfer to plexiglas to double check the Stoddard replacements.

Actually, after I posted, I realized that I still have the 911 exchangers that came with the motor, so I can make my own template. I plan on doing that this weekend and reporting back.

Well, my first preliminary check tonight is somewhat discouraging. I took a small level and laid it across the flanges to see if they were on or close to a plane. They are not.




These last two are of the 911 unit that came with my motor. MUCH more level.



I think that I have some 1/8 plate around the garage somewhere. If I can squeeze it in this weekend, I will make a jig and see if the bolt holes line up and how much force it takes to bring these into plane. However, given that they are visibly out and it is steel (exchangers) vs. aluminum (heads), I don't know that I want to live with that kind of stress pulling at my exhaust studs.

More to come...

The picture of your "new" Stoddard/Dansk HE shows the original problem with the first sets they sold. If they didn't fix the issue about level flanges I doubt if the bolt holes line up either. I'll let everyone know what my second set looks like when I get them this coming week.

[bigkensteele]

No good deed goes unpunished. I worked out a deal for Ken to get these as a thanks for help on the dash, I just dropped them an email. Sorry for the Hassle on this Ken. I hope we can get this resolved shortly. I'm sure Stoddard will do the right thing.
Mark

Thanks, Mark. I am certain it will get worked out.

[Mark Henry]

All I want for Christmas is a set of Marty-made heat exchanger/headers for my Six. Damn, those are beautiful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

Really sucks about the fitment of the Stoddard/dansk exchangers, hard to understand why QC would miss this before it went out the door.

Marty has said in the past that he wasn't interested in reproducing heat exchangers.
I have a set of Marty's headers and the quality is top notch to say the least, but the design would be not the best for a heater box retrofit. He would be looking at a total redesign of the headers, so essentially he'd be starting from scratch.

[Per Schroeder]

That is hard to understand, as we worked out the template with Toolguy and bolted the jig to every single one we received back from customers---and they were sent back to Dansk for retooling---Dansk scrapped them all and made new ones which are on the way back to our customers at this time.

The new ones come with a template/jig bolted to each and every one.

I believe you may have one of the original batches sold to one of our dealers. We didn't receive all of the original ones back from the dealers.

Give us a call (800) 342-1414 and we'll make it right.

[scotty b]

Not to pile on ( but I will ) ...... I have been having constant issues with Dansk body panels the last few years. The last 911 door skin I got had to be cut and widened almost 1/8 inch just to fit over the original inner shell. I'm not sure what is going on with the QC over there, but it's starting to look like the U.S. and Chinese factories have taken control (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)

[rick 918-S]

Way to step up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Sucks when stuff like this happens but it's how it's dealt with that makes the story a happy ending. I would love to pick through their scrap pile. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Cairo94507]

I have to applaude Stoddard for stepping up to the plate to address this fitment issue. Hopefully the OP received one of the original new sets and not the corrected version. I look forward to someone posting after receiving the corrected set to see how fitment is. Thanks Stoddard.

[Eric_Shea]

That is hard to understand, as we worked out the template Toolguy and bolted the jig to every single one we received back from customers and they were sent back to Dansk to retooling---Dansk scrapped them all and made new ones which are on the way back to our customers at this time.

The new ones come with a template/jig bolted to each and every one.

I believe you may have one of the original batches sold to one of our dealers. We didn't receive all of the original ones back from the dealers.

Give us a call (800) 342-1414 and we'll make it right.

We got two sets in for customers and they bolt right on now:



Stoddard did everything by the book to make it perfect. Our new ones came with the jig attached. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[dcheek]

You guys crack me up.
You pay $3000 and you want them to fit?
Don't you think you're asking too much?

Ahhhh.....sarcasm.... the lowest form of humor.

Makes you really appreciate how well made these cars were originally. There is no way the factory would tolerate such a defect, and why Porsche is so particular with its parts and parts suppliers. Can you imagine what it cost to replace all those porous Boxster engine blocks?!

Dave

[bigkensteele]

That is hard to understand, as we worked out the template with Toolguy and bolted the jig to every single one we received back from customers---and they were sent back to Dansk for retooling---Dansk scrapped them all and made new ones which are on the way back to our customers at this time.

The new ones come with a template/jig bolted to each and every one.

I believe you may have one of the original batches sold to one of our dealers. We didn't receive all of the original ones back from the dealers.

Give us a call (800) 342-1414 and we'll make it right.

Just got off the phone with Pete. Sounds like this will have a good ending.

Thanks, Per.