Speedometer Angle Drive Options

[r_towle]

Yes, I had the slotted head and the slot aligned and copacetic. I guess I dig deeper….

At least you did not total your car......

[Mikey914]

I'd pull the angle drive and the drive bushing to investigate further. Possibly the gear on the shaft separated ?
Is so still an easy fix, just need a new part.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Cable, maybe? put your drill on the tranny end of the cable and see fir it spins behind the dash... since it sounds like you have the speedo out.

Wow, you just told him to do what he said he did in post #1. Largo changed the cable, then spun it with a drill with cable and speedo checking out good. So it's either the angle drive and or the plastic gear in the trans and I've seen both for sale as new parts. So I'd suggest trying pelican, automation, and others. Greetings Larmo, I know you're not too far south from me. Mark s.

There is no "plastic gear" in the trans. Mc Mark's double o-ring conversion does NOT include the angle drive, only the straight piece inserted in the nose cover.

The Cap'n

[Larmo63]

The only thing I see is the "blade" part sticking out of where the angle drive screws in. So something is not right up in there?

[Larmo63]

If I back the 13mm bolt out, it does allow the inner drive to move and come out (?) Am I risking losing gear oil all over the shop floor? When it is out, what am I looking for on the inside? It seems as if the angle drive is somewhat engaged because if I rotate it, the outgoing "blade" turns.

I know some here think these questions tedious, but I just don't know.

[Dave_Darling]

The bolt is a set-screw. Once the angle drive is off, removing the set-screw lets you slide the drive (with the O-ring(s) on it) out of the trans. The bore into the trans goes basically up to the top of the rear cover before it opens into the main body, so any gear oil loss will be pretty minimal.

--DD

[euro911]

The bolt is a set-screw. Once the angle drive is off, removing the set-screw lets you slide the drive (with the O-ring(s) on it) out of the trans. The bore into the trans goes basically up to the top of the rear cover before it opens into the main body, so any gear oil loss will be pretty minimal.--DD

... especially if you have the rear of the car elevated (up on jack stands, where these cars seem to spend a lot of time) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Just stick a drip pan below the rear of the trans to catch any dribbling (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[r_towle]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Rear jacked up, minimal dripping will happen, you can even remove the whole rear cover and lose very little fluid.

Rich

[colingreene]

did you put a screw driver onto the part thats in the trans and gently try to turn it to see if it has any resistance.
That would tell you if its stuck to anything.

[bdstone914]

As many times as you have been to my shop and you ask where to get one?
I once had a problem with one not turning and found that there is a 00 and 01 part number. It is stamped on the cap. One was shorter than the other. Marks double oring is for the upper part not the lower angle part.

[pcar916]

If it's your first time, please notice when you're reinstalling it that the set screw (bolt) doesn't tighten on the drive barrel. There is a hole in the barrel that the screw fits into.

The drive-barrel is a "floater" and is supposed to be loose in the trans housing. The bolt is really a "locator" thing that just keeps the drive from falling out. I've seen a lot of speedo barrels marked up by folks who didn't realize that.

Good luck

[Larmo63]

The aluminum(?) barrel doesn't slide out after the bolt comes out. there is resistance from the transmission, it all seems as if it should work. I put channel locks on the barrel to wiggle it out, but it will only come out so far. So, not wanting to fuch it up further. I gave up. I hate working on things that I don't understand.