here we go!, ER f/r rubber bushings!! |
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here we go!, ER f/r rubber bushings!! |
BK911 |
Mar 28 2015, 04:21 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
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BK911 |
Mar 28 2015, 04:24 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
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BK911 |
Mar 28 2015, 04:27 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
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SirAndy |
Mar 28 2015, 10:43 PM
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#4
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,623 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
Just on the jack post, not underneath. Thinking of just blasting and por 15 ing. No welding. Whatchu think? POR15 does not work as advertised ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I'd replace it with good metal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
Larmo63 |
Mar 28 2015, 11:23 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
Blast and powder coat the trailing arms. Make sure no PC gets into bearing areas.
My $.02 |
BK911 |
Mar 29 2015, 02:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
What do you guys think about leaving the old bearings in while blasting and powder coating? I removed the stub axles and bearing retainer plate. Bushings were AFU and metal to metal with the rod and trailing arm!! Glad I decided to do this.
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Larmo63 |
Mar 29 2015, 02:55 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
I didn't leave mine in, but it might work.
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BK911 |
Mar 30 2015, 07:08 AM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
Tore down the front yesterday.
All ready to blast and powder coat. One local shop quoted ~$500 to blast and powder coat front and rear pieces. $80 per hour for blasting!! This seems high to me. Any opinions? |
bdstone914 |
Mar 30 2015, 08:12 AM
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#9
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bdstone914 Group: Members Posts: 4,515 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 |
What do you guys think about leaving the old bearings in while blasting and powder coating? I removed the stub axles and bearing retainer plate. Bushings were AFU and metal to metal with the rod and trailing arm!! Glad I decided to do this. Remove the old rubber bushings before powder coating. The heat will turn them into a bubbly mess. I have powder coated the inside bearing area when using poly graphite bushings as some fit too loose. They holes get distorted from cornering. |
Larmo63 |
Mar 30 2015, 08:17 AM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,264 Joined: 3-March 14 From: San Clemente, Ca Member No.: 17,068 Region Association: Southern California |
My powder coating was $65 for the front A arms.
$500 is crazy. Powdercaot guys are getting greedy with their prices lately, I'd look around. My guy even does ceramic coatings really inexpensively. |
bdstone914 |
Mar 30 2015, 08:18 AM
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#11
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bdstone914 Group: Members Posts: 4,515 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 |
Tore down the front yesterday. All ready to blast and powder coat. One local shop quoted ~$500 to blast and powder coat front and rear pieces. $80 per hour for blasting!! This seems high to me. Any opinions? Prices seem to vary greatly on blasting and powder coating costs. I get large parts done for about $50 each. Plug the ends of the A arms before blasting then remove the plugs at the front end to clean inside before powder coating. You don't want grease dripping out when they get baked. The dirt and rust accumulates around splined front. |
Harpo |
Mar 30 2015, 08:34 AM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,304 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Motor City aka Detroit Member No.: 13,469 Region Association: None |
$500 is ridiculous. I paid about $150
David |
mepstein |
Mar 30 2015, 10:14 AM
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#13
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,255 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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BK911 |
Mar 31 2015, 09:35 AM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
Front and rear, 23 pieces total, found a place for $100. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Just dropped them off, should have them Friday. |
malcolm2 |
Mar 31 2015, 09:54 AM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,745 Joined: 31-May 11 From: Nashville Member No.: 13,139 Region Association: South East States |
Just on the jack post, not underneath. Thinking of just blasting and por 15 ing. No welding. Whatchu think? POR15 does not work as advertised ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Oh contraire.... What you might have thought you said was, "people don't follow the directions when using POR-15." Which is absolutely true. 3 or 4 steps: 1a. if needed wire brush the hell out of it. 1b. use marine clean, several times at your favorite strength mixture. 2. use metal ready 'til it stops bubbling, rinse thoroughly, dry thoroughly then finally you 3. paint. if 2 coats then hit #2 while #1 is tacky. If #1 drys you have to ruff it up. If the part is going to see sunshine, then you must top coat POR. It does not like UV, gets ashy, but still works. Todays society is MICROWAVE. Everyone wants it NOW. Think CROCK-POT and the world will be a better place. and 90% of painting is the prep. My 2 cents and I don't work for POR. |
SirAndy |
Mar 31 2015, 09:58 AM
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#16
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,623 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
Oh contraire.... What you might have thought you said was, "people don't follow the directions when using POR-15." Which is absolutely true. 3 or 4 steps: 1a. if needed wire brush the hell out of it. 1b. use marine clean, several times at your favorite strength mixture. 2. use metal ready 'til it stops bubbling, rinse thoroughly, dry thoroughly then finally you 3. paint. if 2 coats then hit #2 while #1 is tacky. If #1 drys you have to ruff it up. If the part is going to see sunshine, then you must top coat POR. It does not like UV, gets ashy, but still works. Todays society is MICROWAVE. Everyone wants it NOW. Think CROCK-POT and the world will be a better place. and 90% of painting is the prep. My 2 cents and I don't work for POR. Nice ass-sumption you're making there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Still didn't work as advertised ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
BK911 |
Apr 13 2015, 09:07 AM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 672 Joined: 19-February 04 From: Rocky Top, TN Member No.: 1,674 Region Association: None |
That looks nice Malcom.
I ended up powder coating mainly because it only cost $100 for the blasting and PC, and zero prep work from me! The nuts that hold on the rear trailing arms (#7), I think they are called locking pivot nuts or something? Pet calls them hex nuts, how helpful! They have a little lip along the outer face. Is this lip supposed to fit inside the bore of the link bearing? (#5) One nut fit that way, the other three did not. Also, the Haynes says replace them. Should I? I cant find them yet. Edit: The PET shows a washer. Mine did not have one. That is why I was wondering if the lip is supposed to fit inside the bore. |
76-914 |
Apr 13 2015, 09:14 AM
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#18
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,494 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
yes
I didn't replace them, either. |
Andyrew |
Apr 13 2015, 09:15 AM
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#19
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
That looks nice Malcom. I ended up powder coating mainly because it only cost $100 for the blasting and PC, and zero prep work from me! The nuts that hold on the rear trailing arms (#7), I think they are called locking pivot nuts or something? Pet calls them hex nuts, how helpful! They have a little lip along the outer face. Is this lip supposed to fit inside the bore of the link bearing? (#5) One nut fit that way, the other three did not. Also, the Haynes says replace them. Should I? I cant find them yet. Edit: The PET shows a washer. Mine did not have one. That is why I was wondering if the lip is supposed to fit inside the bore. Be sure that the rubber part of the bushings do not touch the mounting points. You might need to shave off some rubber. The mounting points need to be attached only by the tube, so the rubber trailing arm is free to move without being hindered by the rubber. If you notice your trailing arm bolts are constantly loose, there's your answer... |
Mblizzard |
Apr 13 2015, 07:26 PM
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#20
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Front and rear, 23 pieces total, found a place for $100. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Just dropped them off, should have them Friday. Where was that! I need a few things done. |
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