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> 2.0 Oil Leak - Taco Plate area - Advice Please
mikedsilva
post Apr 27 2015, 01:40 PM
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Being new to these cars, (about 2 months in now) I am slowly getting to know them and work my way through the issues.

One of them, is that there is a pool of oil after the car is left sitting.
Mostly, it only leaks after a drive.. when the oil is hot.

I pinpointed the leak to the taco plate area.. I don't have a oil temp sender so I am not sure what is under the plate...
But there is some sealant around the plate area. The sealant feels very stiff.. almost like JB Weld but I don't think it since it flexes a bit when I press on it..
I found that the leak was a pinhole in the sealant..

Should I be trying to remove all the sealant to see what is under there?
Or should I just put a "patch" over it and keep an eye on it?


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Spoke
post Apr 27 2015, 01:52 PM
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There is a gasket there plus a couple of aluminum seal rings around the bolts.

Best bet is to buy a new gasket and rings and replace them when you change oil.

You will want to check the fitment of the plate and the opening to make sure everything is lined up.
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stugray
post Apr 27 2015, 01:54 PM
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How close are you to your next oil change?

You will need to drain all the oil to try to fix that area.
My experience is that you can never "fix" a leak in Silicone by applying new silicone over it.
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saigon71
post Apr 27 2015, 02:12 PM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Apr 27 2015, 03:54 PM) *

How close are you to your next oil change?

You will need to drain all the oil to try to fix that area.
My experience is that you can never "fix" a leak in Silicone by applying new silicone over it.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Order all new seals & gaskets or the taco plate area. Clean everything up and re-seal it at your next oil change.

This area is a PITA to seal up. I've tried twice now and still have a small drip. I'm driving it as is until the next oil change.
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type47
post Apr 27 2015, 02:35 PM
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And watch the torque on the mounting bolts, you don't want the problems from stripping the threads in the aluminum case. Torque is probably in the 7-9 ft lb range but check factory value to be sure.
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Dave_Darling
post Apr 27 2015, 07:46 PM
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A big O-ring, plus a paper gasket, plus two sealing washers are needed. Plus cleaning out all of the old crap.

Another thing to check, though, is the pulley for the thermostat flaps. It threads into the case on the left side, and the hole is actually a through-hole. If the pulley and bolt are removed, it will leak out when you drive the car around corners.

--DD
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mikedsilva
post Apr 27 2015, 08:03 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 28 2015, 11:46 AM) *

A big O-ring, plus a paper gasket, plus two sealing washers are needed. Plus cleaning out all of the old crap.

Another thing to check, though, is the pulley for the thermostat flaps. It threads into the case on the left side, and the hole is actually a through-hole. If the pulley and bolt are removed, it will leak out when you drive the car around corners.

--DD


Thanks for the reply Dave.. I have ordered the bits from my local porsche shop but they will take 10 days to come from Germany... so will update at that time.

I'm just hoping that under all the sealant, there isn't a cracked case flange or something waiting for me...
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Old Yella
post Apr 27 2015, 09:33 PM
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Think you may be rooted mate.

The case is aluminium and can be welded but you would probably need to remove the engine drain it clean it, flip it and grind all the JB pox out. Then get a good welder to build up the damaged metal and use a dremil to re make the proper profile.
broken front engine mounts probably allowed the block to regularly bounce off the engine mounting bar.
that's my theory.
Cheers
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mikedsilva
post Apr 28 2015, 03:16 AM
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I think you may be right.. but will dig it all out and have a look at some point...
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mikedsilva
post Jul 1 2015, 04:48 AM
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update...
i drained the oil, and removed the sealant....
The flange has been broken off, but the base where the o ring seats is fully in tact.
I'm thinking about 2 options.. clean it up and build up with JB Weld..

Or... get an aluminium billet plate which will seat with the flange much better and use sealant.

Thoughts??

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1435747796.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1435747796.2.jpg)
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SLITS
post Jul 1 2015, 06:09 AM
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Instead of bolts, I put studs in to avoid the possibility of breaking the case or stripping the threads. Allows for better clamping capability.

Also, lay the sensor plate on a flat plate to make sure it is not warped.
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02loftsmoor
post Jul 2 2015, 12:55 PM
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QUOTE(mikedsilva @ Jul 1 2015, 05:48 AM) *

update...
i drained the oil, and removed the sealant....
The flange has been broken off, but the base where the o ring seats is fully in tact.
I'm thinking about 2 options.. clean it up and build up with JB Weld..

Or... get an aluminium billet plate which will seat with the flange much better and use sealant.

Thoughts??

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1435747796.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1435747796.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1435747797.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1260.photobucket.com-18462-1435747797.4.jpg)



WOW they did you no favors there!!
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914Sixer
post Jul 2 2015, 03:12 PM
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I found that that had an even bigger piece missing out of my case. I just got another case and I a going to do a quick rebuild.
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