Inexpensive side shift firewall bushing solution Options

[Bill's Racing 914]

I just transitioned my 1970 914 from tail shift to side shift. The dilemma was what to do for the firewall bushing since no one makes the firewall transition bushing anymore.

Bruce stone sold me the set of side shift linkages. With it, I asked him to cut off a 6 inch length of the tail shift linkage that goes in the tunnel. It just happens to slip right over the side shift tunnel link. There is some slippage, but it is tolerable. This six inch sleeve is the rusty tube in the photos.

This allows me to use the same tail shift firewall bushing I already had in place. When I put the side shift linkage in place, all I did was push the sleeve as far back as I could against the knuckle joint and used a sheet metal screw to hold it in place. see photos.

So that all the tail shift tunnel linkages don't start disappearing from people cutting them up, I am certain an equivalent stock tube size is available that will work.

Works like a champ.

[r_towle]

smart.

[screenguy914]

That sleeve surface looks pretty rough. Could be an effective way to enlarge the nylon bushing. You don't want that.

I believe Tangerine Racing offers a firewall shift tube bushing.

Sherwood

[mikedsilva]

I recently bought the parts to convert my tail shifter, from Bray Mayeur.
He actually welds a tube to the shift rod, in the same spot where you have your tube.. the only difference is that he polishes the tube to a near mirror finish so it is nice and smooth.. a liberal coating of grease will hopefully keep the surface rust away.

I have not started my conversion yet... tell me, did you have to cut away some of the internal bulkhead to stop the rod rubbing when selecting 1st or reverse?

Also, did you buy a complete side shift box, or did you dissect your existing box and swap the selector rods etc etc...
Mike.

[brant]

when did the conversion bushing go away?

dang....

calling 914 rubber????
maybe Mark will make us one

[r_towle]

I recently bought the parts to convert my tail shifter, from Bray Mayeur.
He actually welds a tube to the shift rod, in the same spot where you have your tube.. the only difference is that he polishes the tube to a near mirror finish so it is nice and smooth.. a liberal coating of grease will hopefully keep the surface rust away.

I have not started my conversion yet... tell me, did you have to cut away some of the internal bulkhead to stop the rod rubbing when selecting 1st or reverse?

Also, did you buy a complete side shift box, or did you dissect your existing box and swap the selector rods etc etc...
Mike.

no cutting should be required to switch transmissions.

For the tranny itself, you need a side shifter parts tranny at the very least.

You need the shift console, all the rods, the rear cover....there is alot of difference.

Rich

[SirAndy]

calling 914 rubber????
maybe Mark will make us one

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[Vysoc]

I believe Patrick Motorsports makes one, as I have one that will be going in my project. It does require some machining to the shift rod, but is a quality piece of milled aluminum with a swivel bearing type mechanism in the center.

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

I believe Patrick Motorsports makes one, as I have one that will be going in my project. It does require some machining to the shift rod, but is a quality piece of milled aluminum with a swivel bearing type mechanism in the center.

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

My firewall spherical bearing doesn't require any machining of the rod. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
IMO, the Patrick bearing is not a great choice: 1) Turning the rod down to less than .750" OD leaves the tubing too thin. 2) The bearing must be removed from the firewall to remove the rod from the tunnel. 3) The firewall has to be modified for the bearing frame to be attached.

[Vysoc]

Chris,

Just checked out your solution on your web-site, which will bring up another question, which I think I know the answer. Six conversion will it require a different shift rod as I see you offer two different models?

Thanks,

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

[BeatNavy]

I did the side shift switch on my '72 a few weeks back. I'm very happy with my Tangerine Racing Shift Rod bushing. Especially once I installed it facing the right direction (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Shifting is much better! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

Chris,

Just checked out your solution on your web-site, which will bring up another question, which I think I know the answer. Six conversion will it require a different shift rod as I see you offer two different models?

Thanks,

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

I think the bent rod works ok with a six conversion, but the bends are unnecessary. A straight rod works fine.

[Mike Bellis]

In a pinch, 3/4" ID PVC pipe makes a good bushing. Tight fit on the rod and tight fit on the firewall.

[screenguy914]

I believe Patrick Motorsports makes one, as I have one that will be going in my project. It does require some machining to the shift rod, but is a quality piece of milled aluminum with a swivel bearing type mechanism in the center.

Vysoc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

My firewall spherical bearing doesn't require any machining of the rod. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
IMO, the Patrick bearing is not a great choice: 1) Turning the rod down to less than .750" OD leaves the tubing too thin. 2) The bearing must be removed from the firewall to remove the rod from the tunnel. 3) The firewall has to be modified for the bearing frame to be attached.

Agree with Racer Chris. In addition, Patrick's "bushing" uses a spherical bearing that's fine for close tolerance spherical movement (yeah, the rod moves at an angle a bit). However, the hardened bearing ID isn't designed for linear motion. However, heavy grease should help mitigate tube wear.

Sherwood

[Mikey914]

I was tapped by BD stone to look into these and have actually started the process. It's nice to have another option but much easier to just have a "stock" bushing to pop in. These are a little ways out still as I'm finishing up 2 other large projects.

Mark

[ChrisFoley]

I started making a steel filler ring that converts the firewall opening to use a standard sideshift bushing.

[Larmo63]

With a bit of fabrication, won't Chris's firewall bushing fit the firewall?

I have one in my car and I love it.

[ChrisFoley]

With a bit of fabrication, won't Chris's firewall bushing fit the firewall?

No fabrication required. It fits early and late chassis firewalls.
The housing also has a groove to hold the sideshift boot.

[Bill's Racing 914]

I started making a steel filler ring that converts the firewall opening to use a standard sideshift bushing.

Bruce Stone and I talked about this as an option too. Basically a big machined aluminum washer that rivets on to the firewall. The OD big enough to accept the rivets, the ID small enough to accept the standard side shift bushing.

But if it comes out at $100 from Tangerine, I can have my own made up (I are a mechanical engneer too)...or I will stick with this sleeve solution which only costs the price of a sheet metal screw since I already had all the tail shift stuff in place including the bushing.

I like simple solutions. They are the most elegant.

I agree that I should have polished the sleeve first.

[ChrisFoley]

I started making a steel filler ring that converts the firewall opening to use a standard sideshift bushing.

Bruce Stone and I talked about this as an option too. Basically a big machined aluminum washer that rivets on to the firewall. The OD big enough to accept the rivets, the ID small enough to accept the standard side shift bushing.

But if it comes out at $100 from Tangerine, I can have my own made up (I are a mechanical engneer too)...or I will stick with this sleeve solution which only costs the price of a sheet metal screw since I already had all the tail shift stuff in place including the bushing.

I like simple solutions. They are the most elegant.

I agree that I should have polished the sleeve first.

Even simpler than you have imagined, and no where near $100 - closer to $20.
Why would I make a more expensive product so someone could continue using something I prefer to see eliminated? That makes no sense.
My firewall bearing is only $56.95 delivered. It will outlast the stock bushing, while providing better support the whole time. Replacement bearings (no housing) are only $17.50, not much different from the stock bushings.