OT: for trekkor, tile related stuff |
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OT: for trekkor, tile related stuff |
chunger |
Feb 21 2005, 10:54 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
Hey Trekkor,
Here's a couple pics of the bathroom I need tiled. . . (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) Attached image(s) |
chunger |
Feb 21 2005, 10:55 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
the tub area
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chunger |
Feb 21 2005, 10:56 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
other side of tub
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chunger |
Feb 21 2005, 10:59 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
other direction from standing in tub
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Trekkor |
Feb 21 2005, 11:05 PM
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#5
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks for my own personal thread.
What kind of tile do you want to use? I want to talk to you about some alternative prep methods to the Durock cement panels in the tub surround. I can prepare the walls and tub deck in such a way that will outlast the entire house! Water proofing is *everything*. KT |
chunger |
Feb 21 2005, 11:21 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
I'm all a fan of a better water-proofing scheme. .. . The durock was the best I could think of at the time. I need to pull it off and at least put a moisture barrier behind the surround. I forgot, and didn't tell the guys who were helping me w/ sheetrock.
After demolishing another bathroom that had the entire subfloor rot and crumble away in Menlo Park, I'd like to know how to seal it better. We're probably not goign to install a shower curtain in this bathroom and just use the tub. . . not the shower. -'Chung |
Trekkor |
Feb 21 2005, 11:31 PM
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#7
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
Remember, water will find a way.
When you see mildew or loose tile, the damage is usually done. It's sad, the contractor's license board only requires projects to last 10 years. Mastic over greenboard will last 10-12 years. Only problem is after it fails you have to pay to have it demo'ed, fix the rot and then rebuild. I'm serious, a mortar prepared project will last over fifty years. I tear them out only because the yellow and green, pink and gray tile jobs of the '50's make people (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/barf.gif) . No water damage behind those jobs. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) KT |
Bleyseng |
Feb 21 2005, 11:39 PM
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#8
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Coat everything with Ultraset waterproofing as nothing gets thru that stuff up to 6' above the tub floor. Install durarock around the window and coat it thick but even.
We use it instead of the plastic pan crap in showers. Have I told you I hate fuckin windows in showers? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/dry.gif) Geoff |
pete-stevers |
Feb 22 2005, 12:27 AM
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#9
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saved from fire! Group: Members Posts: 2,641 Joined: 10-October 04 From: Abbotsford,BC, Canada Member No.: 2,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
sooo I have a shower room to do to.... let me get this straight- first the sheetrock then the mortar and tiles for longevity.... hope they can find me a cute nurse to help me shower in fifty years in my leak free shower (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)
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Trekkor |
Feb 22 2005, 12:41 AM
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#10
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
Mortar install is the best.
Walls are prepared for tile with waterproof flashing between tub and green board. Waterproof paper laps over and to the ceiling. Metal lath and mortar like a stucco wall. Done right, will not fail. No better way, period. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) Waterproof flashing into the window gets it done as well. KT see you weds Chung |
chunger |
Feb 22 2005, 12:43 AM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
Thanks for the tips. . . I would definitely rather have something that lasts 50 years.
I just recently took out a mortor tile job and it had some rather serious subfloor damage. . . entire bathroom subfloor could be removed by hand. . . had to replace 2 floor joists also. I suspect that this may have been the 2nd tile job however, and there was not rot behind the tub. Strange. -'Chung |
Bleyseng |
Feb 22 2005, 10:19 AM
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#12
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Trekkor, I agree with lath and motar but looking at what he's got I would just Ultra set it. Windows leak where the tile meets the window dribbles down under everything and rots it out. I have ripped out atleast a 100 of these over the years.
We will not waranty a window in a shower. Geoff |
chunger |
Feb 23 2005, 04:54 AM
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#13
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Member Group: Members Posts: 409 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Albany, CA Member No.: 133 |
Just say the word, and POOF! 914 tile guy magically appears. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif)
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Jeffs9146 |
Feb 23 2005, 09:08 AM
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#14
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
Isn't that electrical box illegal in California? It was my understanding that there could be no junction boxes that are not accessible (the first photos show it mounted inside the sheetrock) and if it is near water it needs to be GFI protected. WTFDIK
Jeff |
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