Electric Avenue is Bright, Finishing the ABM Electrics Options

[EdwardBlume]

Is this connection missing a pin? It's under the steering looks like an indicator connection. Black and red wire.

[JeffBowlsby]

Check to see if you have 5 wires to that connector, that cavity should have a brown/black wire. Its your intermittent wiper delay circuit. I bet its there. What seems to be missing is the male prong from the wiper switch...you must have some other switch in there that does not have the wiper delay circuit in it.

[EdwardBlume]

Yep, 5 wires in, 4 prongs connecting. You can see the wire (blurry)... brown and black? Dang.

[EdwardBlume]

Put a new ignition switch in, the old one looked OK though. Did find 2 unattached wires though coming from the ignition switch. That's not right is it?

[EdwardBlume]

I think I'm getting closer to the issue. With battery on, the headlights are live. Headlight switch off, still live.

Ignition switch which should be live is completely without power. In fact, there's two wires just dangling there.

Best I can figure, one is where the real live should go, the other should be switched back to the lights or seats or something.

JWest fuse box looks good. Headlight switch is out but there's a ton of wires to it.

What do you think?

Pict one are the two stray wires off the ignition switch. One for sure is power.

[EdwardBlume]

Next pict is the fuse box. Does this look right to you?

[EdwardBlume]

Last pict set is the headlight switch. Looks like power shares a connection with a slightly different wire....

[EdwardBlume]

Darn... crappy picts... need to study the headlight switch now.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif)

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Even Andy takes better pic's than that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) In the 1st pic; is that a burn spot on the red wire adjacent to the insulation covering the spade? Also, notice the witness marks on that same sheathing. It appears that those indentations are the result of two opposing spade connections pressing against it. Like this l=

[McMark]

The two wires in your hand are for the cigarette lighter.

Can't do much with the blurry pics. If you're using a cell phone, get a camera. If you're using a camera, set it to Macro mode. Or take the pictures from farther back. Good light on the subject can reduce blur as well so get out the shoplights.

[EdwardBlume]

The two wires in your hand are for the cigarette lighter.

Can't do much with the blurry pics. If you're using a cell phone, get a camera. If you're using a camera, set it to Macro mode. Or take the pictures from farther back. Good light on the subject can reduce blur as well so get out the shoplights.

You're right. I got deeper in and saw the bigger starter wire in there (yellow) and the larger live wire (orange?). The PO deleted the cigarette lighter and the fasten seat belt light. Wires are still there though.

[EdwardBlume]

I made some progress though .....

[EdwardBlume]

I adjusted the headlights so they are down at lights off. The relays or motors still click when you connect the battery.

Pulling the light switch on to park, the 4 corners lit up, but pulling the headlights on doesn't lift the lights or light the H4s.

Pulling the hazard switch lit up the dash but no flashing. Turn signal does not work.

Progress.

[Mike Bellis]

I found lots of little things with Rob's car but nothing major. I guess the biggest issue if you call it that was the fuel cut off relay was connected to constant power and not switched, so it would always cut off fuel. Up/Down on one headlight flipped. Park turn wires on front left turn signal was flipped. Brake light switch arm not hitting brake pedal assembly correctly. Lots of corrosion in lamp sockets. Had to run fuel level signal to center console. connect center console gauges. connect and wire radio and speakers. install LED front lamp boards. The biggest this messing with me (and him) at the beginning was the loose ground at the battery. I would have power and them no power. Once we got it tight, it was easy to track down the issues.

Things to do:
Reconnect starter (yellow) wire at started. It's removed for testing.
Tighten all oil lines and fittings, fill with oil!
Reinstall interior pieces. (some we removed today)
Bleed brakes.
Tie up loose wire and cables.
Charge battery.


The PO did a pretty good job on the wiring even though I fixed some of his work. The car is super clean! Every part is new or restored. This is the first time I spent real time in/on this car and I want it! Just beautiful... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

[kconway]

Wow, sorry guys. I knew it needed some sorting but had no idea I goofed up so many of the connections. Glad you made some progress.

Kevin

[Mike Bellis]

Wow, sorry guys. I knew it needed some sorting but had no idea I goofed up so many of the connections. Glad you made some progress.

Kevin

Kevin, this car is amazing! These sort of issues are pretty normal when reassembling a car. Poor Rob has color blindness which compounds the troubleshooting issue. I will be back in a couple weeks to help finish sorting out the last few items and get this thing running.

I really love this car. It reminds me of my first 914. It's almost like a new car with all the parts being new or restored. Rob really wants to sell it to me... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[EdwardBlume]

Big thanks to Mike Bellis... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

There's a few more things on the list, but definitely close.

Additional items:
1) Fog lights don't power - switch is lit, power OK to S1, fuse OK, yellow wires are connected between lights, but no juice. Either the switch or the relay.

2) No horn

3) No high beam - may need to replace both column levers

4) Replace stub pipes

5) Alignment

6) Front valence...

[EdwardBlume]

Wow, sorry guys. I knew it needed some sorting but had no idea I goofed up so many of the connections. Glad you made some progress.

Kevin

Your work was / is very good. Thanks for labeling stuff!

[Dave_Darling]

For the fog lights, turn them on and check for power at the fuse, and after the fuse, and on the wire, and at the socket. Remember that the stock circuit requires the headlights to be on in order to send power to the fog lights.

For the horn, there is a separate relay on top of the fuse panel for the horn. When the brown/white wire going up the steering column is grounded, the relay gets triggered, and sends power to the horn. So check that the correct pin (85 or 86?) on the relay gets grounded when you press the horn button, and that the relay has power on the other of those two pins and 30 as well, when the key is on. And so on.

--DD

[EdwardBlume]

For the fog lights, turn them on and check for power at the fuse, and after the fuse, and on the wire, and at the socket. Remember that the stock circuit requires the headlights to be on in order to send power to the fog lights.

For the horn, there is a separate relay on top of the fuse panel for the horn. When the brown/white wire going up the steering column is grounded, the relay gets triggered, and sends power to the horn. So check that the correct pin (85 or 86?) on the relay gets grounded when you press the horn button, and that the relay has power on the other of those two pins and 30 as well, when the key is on. And so on.

--DD

I have power at the fuse, but no power to the lights. The high beam isn't working so I think that's it. Might just ground the blue/white wire to check.

Horn is now working! The dino wheel adapter wasn't making contact so I cleaned the grease off the inside ring, bent the inner flaps out, and honk! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)