Are Special Bolts Needed for Exhaust |
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Are Special Bolts Needed for Exhaust |
7TPorsh |
Jun 24 2015, 12:22 PM
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#1
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7T Porsh Group: Members Posts: 2,691 Joined: 27-March 06 From: Glendale Ca Member No.: 5,782 Region Association: Southern California |
I removed my sebring exhaust to change out the muffler. i noticed the exchanger to sebring bolts and nuts are overly corroded.
These are the bolts that connect the exchangers to the exhaust....not the head bolts. Do I need anything special for these bolts? special material? I have seen copper nuts and such for the header end; but nothing specified for the muffler end. i have new gaskets. thx |
Stitch914 |
Jun 24 2015, 12:42 PM
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#2
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 2 Joined: 20-May 13 From: Modesto, California Member No.: 15,895 Region Association: Northern California |
I removed my sebring exhaust to change out the muffler. i noticed the exchanger to sebring bolts and nuts are overly corroded. These are the bolts that connect the exchangers to the exhaust....not the head bolts. Do I need anything special for these bolts? special material? I have seen copper nuts and such for the header end; but nothing specified for the muffler end. i have new gaskets. thx I don't think "special" bolts are necessary for the exchanger-to-muffler interface, but if you want to avoid corroded (and unsightly) bolts in the future, you can do what I did and use stainless steel fasteners; some hardware stores actually carry a decent selection of metric SS fasteners, and I usually stock up on them whenever I need to buy some. |
relentless |
Jun 24 2015, 01:20 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 350 Joined: 1-April 07 From: Oregon Member No.: 7,636 |
Another tip is to put anti-seize compound on the threads. I use a copper anti-seize and it makes taking the bolts off a lot easier.
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SLITS |
Jun 24 2015, 01:51 PM
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#4
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Another tip is to put anti-seize compound on the threads. I use a copper anti-seize and it makes taking the bolts off a lot easier. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Best idea |
7TPorsh |
Jun 24 2015, 04:37 PM
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#5
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7T Porsh Group: Members Posts: 2,691 Joined: 27-March 06 From: Glendale Ca Member No.: 5,782 Region Association: Southern California |
Sounds good, thanks guys!
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Maltese Falcon |
Jun 28 2015, 06:35 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,645 Joined: 14-September 04 From: Mulholland SoCal Member No.: 2,755 Region Association: None |
Gary
Try Allen Industrial Hardware on Burbank Bl., Burbank. Henry is real good at sourcing the metric specialty studs. Then check your PM ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Marty |
campbellcj |
Jun 28 2015, 06:42 PM
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#7
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I can't Re Member Group: Members Posts: 4,545 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Agoura, CA Member No.: 21 Region Association: Southern California |
There is a special type of nut with a captive metal washer. I forget what they're officially called but I just grabbed some out of my storage unit. I have the opposite issue on my race car i.e., regular nuts work themselves loose so I'm gonna try the "correct" ones now.
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7TPorsh |
Jun 29 2015, 09:54 AM
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#8
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7T Porsh Group: Members Posts: 2,691 Joined: 27-March 06 From: Glendale Ca Member No.: 5,782 Region Association: Southern California |
Well it looks like I fell victim to the "while I'm in there" syndrome.
Dropped these filthy things and now i don't think they will be going back on yuck few of the studs were loose . This one is in there pretty good. Looks like this one wasn't bolted down tight enough. Gotta get it out. so new studs needed as well. |
rjames |
Jun 29 2015, 10:01 AM
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#9
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Well it looks like I fell victim to the "while I'm in there" syndrome. Dropped these filthy things and now i don't think they will be going back on yuck few of the studs were loose . This one is in there pretty good. Looks like this one wasn't bolted down tight enough. Gotta get it out. so new studs needed as well. Kind of looks like someone already did a helicoil or a timesert on the right side already. |
7TPorsh |
Jun 29 2015, 10:34 AM
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#10
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7T Porsh Group: Members Posts: 2,691 Joined: 27-March 06 From: Glendale Ca Member No.: 5,782 Region Association: Southern California |
should that stud stay in there?
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TheCabinetmaker |
Jun 29 2015, 10:39 AM
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#11
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,300 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
The more you remove and reinstall the studs, the greater the chance of pulling the threads from the head.
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rjames |
Jun 29 2015, 12:30 PM
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#12
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,933 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
The more you remove and reinstall the studs, the greater the chance of pulling the threads from the head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) See if you can gently clean up the rusted threads on the stud that's still in there. Best not to remove it at all if it won't come out easily and if it still allows you to tighten the bolt to the right torque speck. Look up the torque speck and maybe tighten slightly below it to be on the safe side. |
Chris Pincetich |
Jun 29 2015, 12:48 PM
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#13
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
If the exhaust stud stays put, that's good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
The ones that come out are trying to be "special bolts" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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