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7TPorsh
I removed my sebring exhaust to change out the muffler. i noticed the exchanger to sebring bolts and nuts are overly corroded.

These are the bolts that connect the exchangers to the exhaust....not the head bolts.

Do I need anything special for these bolts? special material? I have seen copper nuts and such for the header end; but nothing specified for the muffler end.

i have new gaskets. thx
Stitch914
QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Jun 24 2015, 11:22 AM) *

I removed my sebring exhaust to change out the muffler. i noticed the exchanger to sebring bolts and nuts are overly corroded.

These are the bolts that connect the exchangers to the exhaust....not the head bolts.

Do I need anything special for these bolts? special material? I have seen copper nuts and such for the header end; but nothing specified for the muffler end.

i have new gaskets. thx


I don't think "special" bolts are necessary for the exchanger-to-muffler interface, but if you want to avoid corroded (and unsightly) bolts in the future, you can do what I did and use stainless steel fasteners; some hardware stores actually carry a decent selection of metric SS fasteners, and I usually stock up on them whenever I need to buy some.
relentless
Another tip is to put anti-seize compound on the threads. I use a copper anti-seize and it makes taking the bolts off a lot easier.
SLITS
QUOTE(relentless @ Jun 24 2015, 12:20 PM) *

Another tip is to put anti-seize compound on the threads. I use a copper anti-seize and it makes taking the bolts off a lot easier.


agree.gif Best idea

7TPorsh
Sounds good, thanks guys!
Maltese Falcon
Gary
Try Allen Industrial Hardware on Burbank Bl., Burbank.
Henry is real good at sourcing the metric specialty studs.
Then check your PM !
welder.gif
Marty
campbellcj
There is a special type of nut with a captive metal washer. I forget what they're officially called but I just grabbed some out of my storage unit. I have the opposite issue on my race car i.e., regular nuts work themselves loose so I'm gonna try the "correct" ones now.
7TPorsh
Well it looks like I fell victim to the "while I'm in there" syndrome.
Dropped these filthy things and now i don't think they will be going back on

yuck

Click to view attachment

few of the studs were loose . This one is in there pretty good. Looks like this one wasn't bolted down tight enough. Gotta get it out.

Click to view attachment

so new studs needed as well.
rjames
QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Jun 29 2015, 08:54 AM) *

Well it looks like I fell victim to the "while I'm in there" syndrome.
Dropped these filthy things and now i don't think they will be going back on

yuck

Click to view attachment

few of the studs were loose . This one is in there pretty good. Looks like this one wasn't bolted down tight enough. Gotta get it out.

Click to view attachment

so new studs needed as well.


Kind of looks like someone already did a helicoil or a timesert on the right side already.
7TPorsh
should that stud stay in there?
TheCabinetmaker
The more you remove and reinstall the studs, the greater the chance of pulling the threads from the head.
rjames
QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Jun 29 2015, 09:39 AM) *

The more you remove and reinstall the studs, the greater the chance of pulling the threads from the head.

agree.gif

See if you can gently clean up the rusted threads on the stud that's still in there. Best not to remove it at all if it won't come out easily and if it still allows you to tighten the bolt to the right torque speck. Look up the torque speck and maybe tighten slightly below it to be on the safe side.
Chris Pincetich
If the exhaust stud stays put, that's good! beerchug.gif
The ones that come out are trying to be "special bolts" biggrin.gif
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