how do you pull a front fender off? (gently), i DID do a search but never really found anything. |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
how do you pull a front fender off? (gently), i DID do a search but never really found anything. |
BritCarJim |
Jul 5 2015, 08:21 PM
Post
#1
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 22-January 12 From: Sevierville, TN Member No.: 14,043 Region Association: South East States |
i've got rust between the scuttle and the PS front fender (which means it is probably in both) so i'm going to have to pull that fender. i can do "trial and error" but it is usually better to ask: how do you get that fender off? in the brit-car world i come from there are always a couple of hidden bolts in a couple of inaccessible places, thus its better to ask. folks?
(bonus pic from this afternoon....primer on the underside of the "new" front lid...the one that came with the car is FUBAR'd.) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Attached thumbnail(s) |
mepstein |
Jul 5 2015, 08:26 PM
Post
#2
|
914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,272 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
no bolts. it's all spot weldsd.
|
BritCarJim |
Jul 5 2015, 08:34 PM
Post
#3
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 22-January 12 From: Sevierville, TN Member No.: 14,043 Region Association: South East States |
damnit. i was afraid you were going to say that. so, wire brush down there as far as possible and then POR-15 down the crevice or do i need to drill out spot welds...and how many are there and where?
|
Mike Bellis |
Jul 5 2015, 08:37 PM
Post
#4
|
Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
If you don't cut it out and fix it correctly with new metal, the rust will come back.
|
BritCarJim |
Jul 5 2015, 08:39 PM
Post
#5
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 22-January 12 From: Sevierville, TN Member No.: 14,043 Region Association: South East States |
yeah, thats the way it works on my other cars, i figured the 'teener was the same.
|
brant |
Jul 5 2015, 10:17 PM
Post
#6
|
914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,624 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Research spot weld drill bits
I preferred an air drill for the removal There a lot of welds. Not a small job |
mepstein |
Jul 6 2015, 06:00 AM
Post
#7
|
914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,272 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
If your front fender is that bad, your probably dealing with a lot more rust in all the usual places. Post lots of pics and the the world collective will help you.
|
Dave_Darling |
Jul 6 2015, 09:05 AM
Post
#8
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
do i need to drill out spot welds...and how many are there and where? Yes, you do. And there are about 6 million of them, all along the edges of the panel. (At least, it will feel like 6 million by the time you get done drilling them or using a spot-weld cutter on them.) --DD |
JoeDees |
Jul 6 2015, 09:50 AM
Post
#9
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 515 Joined: 10-November 14 From: Northern Kentucky Member No.: 18,106 Region Association: None |
Totally off topic, but I love that Scout.
|
green914 |
Jul 6 2015, 11:09 AM
Post
#10
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,467 Joined: 29-March 11 From: Sacramento, California Member No.: 12,874 Region Association: Northern California |
Show us the type 3.
|
Bob L. |
Jul 6 2015, 11:29 AM
Post
#11
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 847 Joined: 7-August 11 From: Austin TX Member No.: 13,411 Region Association: Southwest Region |
|
Elliot Cannon |
Jul 6 2015, 11:51 AM
Post
#12
|
914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
I used a sabre saw. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
Attached image(s) |
mbseto |
Jul 6 2015, 12:21 PM
Post
#13
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
Man, this is my future. Is it really better to cut sections out of the fender rather than drill spot welds and take the whole thing off? I'm very concerned about my ability to weld it back so it looks right.
|
Chris H. |
Jul 6 2015, 12:59 PM
Post
#14
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,030 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Man, this is my future. Is it really better to cut sections out of the fender rather than drill spot welds and take the whole thing off? I'm very concerned about my ability to weld it back so it looks right. No it isn't. He put removable flares on that car which is why he cut the fenders that way. The old school spot weld way is the way to go to replace a fender. That's why he's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) . |
rgalla9146 |
Jul 6 2015, 08:08 PM
Post
#15
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,554 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
Cut the fender away as close to the spot welds as possible.
Then as you drill out the spot welds you will be removing a thin strip of metal, not a large, rigid, stubborn chunk. If you are installing a used fender you'll have to do the same process removing the attached body remnants from the fender. |
BritCarJim |
Jul 6 2015, 09:59 PM
Post
#16
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 22-January 12 From: Sevierville, TN Member No.: 14,043 Region Association: South East States |
hmm. i think this car was hit in the front at some point so i don't know yet if i have a big problem on that fender or not. i am not naive about this but since it may be a replacement fender i am not assuming anything until i get a grinder with a flapper wheel and a drill with a wire-brush-wheel after it. i have done the spot-weld bit before. i come from the world of brit cars, remember? when i can get the nose of the teener in the garage and dig into that corner, i will see what i have.
i will stick up a pic of my '72 GT with bits off and spot welds drilled off. i will also still up a pic showing the mystery car....the gray four door that you could see a bit of in the pic i put in the lead post...and which might look a bit like a type 3...is a 1963 MG Magnette IV. yes, it is a four door MG. it has the drive train out of the MGA II (4 cyl BMC B-series 1622, four speed, dual SU carbs--HD4s in the 1.5 inch, i think) though some bits of the clutch and brake hydraulics were unobtainium on these shores. she is a positive ground car. she is one of the projects i am working on now. i have her mechanically good enough to drive around the driveway though i have now pulled the carpet and am assessing the floorboards. the Scout is a 1963 Scout 80. 4 cylinder 4WD. another project that followed me home. she has the character of a farm tractor and maxes out at 45 mph, but will do that straight up a phone pole in 4WD. it is a work in process like all of my cars...the biggest thing it needs is floorboards, but since they aren't structural, its no big deal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
Dave_Darling |
Jul 7 2015, 06:31 PM
Post
#17
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
i have done the spot-weld bit before. i come from the world of brit cars, remember? Oh, I figured that those all bolted the body onto a wood frame.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) --DD |
Old Yella |
Jul 7 2015, 08:20 PM
Post
#18
|
Old Yella Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 2-July 13 From: Canberra Australia Member No.: 16,086 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Is that blue car a Morris Oxford or a Worsley 28/40.
|
beech4rd |
Jul 7 2015, 08:48 PM
Post
#19
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 343 Joined: 10-January 07 From: Highwoods, Saugerties, NY Member No.: 7,445 Region Association: North East States |
If you read the posts above, you'll discover it's a MG Magnette. The cars you list and the Magnette were badge engineered BMC cars with design by PininFarina.
|
BritCarJim |
Jul 11 2015, 08:42 PM
Post
#20
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 98 Joined: 22-January 12 From: Sevierville, TN Member No.: 14,043 Region Association: South East States |
yeah, the T-series sportscars from after WW2 into the 1950s had wood in the bodies (on steel chassis) but after that...not so much. my driver is a '72 B GT (sportscar) and i have a '77 B ragtop but the 4 door cars have a certain allure as well. this being the MG version of the badge engineered car, it has the engine in MG tune and the MG badging and trim but truthfully, it carries the "sacred octagon," the MG symbol. very emotive for those of addicts.
now, having said that...i have this Porsche....which i think i can certainly learn to love... |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th May 2024 - 08:33 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |