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> /6 loud noise after rebuild, with video
Mark Henry
post Jul 15 2015, 10:38 AM
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Normal, that's not the cause of the noise.

The ramps are subject to wear and the old ones were known for pitting, but not noise.

The main noise would be from tensioner issues. slack chain. etc.
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tornik550
post Jul 15 2015, 11:08 AM
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Could it still be the tensioners even though the chain is very tight currently? I am almost not able to push the chain up or down at all- essentially no slack.
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mskala
post Jul 15 2015, 12:38 PM
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QUOTE(tornik550 @ Jul 15 2015, 01:08 PM) *

Could it still be the tensioners even though the chain is very tight currently? I am almost not able to push the chain up or down at all- essentially no slack.


That's about right for tension. What made you sure it was this side? On my
car I can't pinpoint noises that well. Check other side?

I would also take the opportunity to get the idler wheels with the long bushing
and lose the spacer. Some people think that the geometry was part of the
failed tensioner problem.

If it's not valves or tensioners, maybe check if the fan is rubbing.
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tornik550
post Jul 15 2015, 07:24 PM
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I went over everything again. I found that I had the two red arrowed ramps switched. They are pointing the right way but they are in the wrong position.

I never noticed that there was a difference in the ramps. Is it nexcesary to change them? Is there really that much of a difference in the ramps? Could that be causing my issue?


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Mark Henry
post Jul 15 2015, 09:20 PM
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QUOTE(tornik550 @ Jul 15 2015, 09:24 PM) *

I went over everything again. I found that I had the two red arrowed ramps switched. They are pointing the right way but they are in the wrong position.

I never noticed that there was a difference in the ramps. Is it nexcesary to change them? Is there really that much of a difference in the ramps? Could that be causing my issue?

Oh wow really ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
I thought of that and then said nahhh.... can't be....

Yes, it is very important the brown one is thicker IIRC.
You have to switch them to the correct order.
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mskala
post Jul 16 2015, 04:54 AM
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In your pic I couldn't have said that rasmp was brown, looked black to me.
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Mark Henry
post Jul 16 2015, 05:16 AM
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QUOTE(mskala @ Jul 16 2015, 06:54 AM) *

In your pic I couldn't have said that rasmp was brown, looked black to me.

That's what I thought....
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tornik550
post Jul 16 2015, 05:31 AM
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QUOTE(mskala @ Jul 16 2015, 06:54 AM) *

In your pic I couldn't have said that rasmp was brown, looked black to me.


I hate to say it but it looks black just cause of the lighting. I took a different picture. It was hard to get a good picture of all three ramps with the engine in the car. The picture is bad however it shows the three colors (in the wrong positions).


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Luke M
post Jul 18 2015, 07:22 AM
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QUOTE(tornik550 @ Jul 15 2015, 06:24 PM) *

I went over everything again. I found that I had the two red arrowed ramps switched. They are pointing the right way but they are in the wrong position.

I never noticed that there was a difference in the ramps. Is it nexcesary to change them? Is there really that much of a difference in the ramps? Could that be causing my issue?



It's easy to put the ramps in the wrong location/direction that's why I asked about it.
So did you swap them around and run it ?
Any more noise ?
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tornik550
post Jul 18 2015, 08:38 AM
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QUOTE(Luke M @ Jul 18 2015, 09:22 AM) *

QUOTE(tornik550 @ Jul 15 2015, 06:24 PM) *

I went over everything again. I found that I had the two red arrowed ramps switched. They are pointing the right way but they are in the wrong position.

I never noticed that there was a difference in the ramps. Is it nexcesary to change them? Is there really that much of a difference in the ramps? Could that be causing my issue?



It's easy to put the ramps in the wrong location/direction that's why I asked about it.
So did you swap them around and run it ?
Any more noise ?


When I put the engine together I did not replace the ramps. I thought now was a good time to replace with new ones so I haven't moved them yet. The new ones should arrive one Monday. I'll post a response as soon as I get them in.
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dlestep
post Jul 18 2015, 01:38 PM
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go through procedure for TDC, place pin in cam sprocket to keep it from moving.
replace your chain rails and ensure that your spacer is behind the rightside
tensioner, aligning the chains parallel.
~
Pressure fed kit comes with new cover plates, hoses and tensioners.
Just trying to help, Good luck with your problem...
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tornik550
post Jul 18 2015, 01:54 PM
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QUOTE(dlestep @ Jul 18 2015, 03:38 PM) *

go through procedure for TDC, place pin in cam sprocket to keep it from moving.
replace your chain rails and ensure that your spacer is behind the rightside
tensioner, aligning the chains parallel.
~
Pressure fed kit comes with new cover plates, hoses and tensioners.
Just trying to help, Good luck with your problem...
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Interesting point. I thoroughly measured for proper alignment when I first installed everything however I had to remove the heads. I assumed that the alignment would be the same and I did not recheck. I used the same so spacers that I used with my first measurement. Is it possible that alignment could be that far off from removing the heads? Since everything is out. I probably need to re measure.
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post Jul 18 2015, 02:16 PM
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How many miles does the motor have where you thought it was good to reuse the ramps?
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tornik550
post Jul 18 2015, 02:45 PM
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QUOTE(396 @ Jul 18 2015, 04:16 PM) *

How many miles does the motor have where you thought it was good to reuse the ramps?


I'd prefer not to answer that question (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Just kidding

I do not know how many miles were on the engine. The ramps appeared fairly new and were defiantly not the originals. The engine is practically brand new now which is why I clearly should have replaced the ramps.
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sixnotfour
post Jul 18 2015, 03:09 PM
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now its time to check cam timing..and in relation to #1 maybe 180 out
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