Which Sway bar, I want a sway bar on my 914 Options

[redshift]

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 27 2005, 02:06 AM)

QUOTE (MattR @ Feb 26 2005, 11:05 PM) The seats NEED bolsters though.  I felt like i was sliding all over the place. we shall see what the tax return fairy brings us....

In Corona?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

Panties.


M

[Trekkor]

At least tell us the bar ya got.

KT

[J P Stein]

Tarett, of course, set full soft.

It's no big secret, I've posted my set-up several times here...it just ain't quite right and will change again in response to different tires.
Toe out F & R, less negative camber, & stiffer rear springs.
This is a learn as you go deal.
I don't see anyone here, cept Bill, with a car that's similar to mine running AX, so guidance is minimal. He gets to start over again too. I try to build on what I learned last season.

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Feb 27 2005, 05:16 PM)

holy crap! what was the damage to the car? lost it in a corner???

i've told this story before, possibly here.

i wasn't in the car, my ex- was, so there are some facts that will always be unknown. i have spoken with the instructor who was in the car but there are still a few things i don't know, and i have come to terms with the fact that i never will.

immediately prior i had the car on the track (Riverside) and it felt good; we were running the long (Can-Am) course with its mile+ back straight and i saw indicated 130+ (2,0 six, E-cams, uprated carb settings, megaphones, snowplow spoiler, otherwise stock engine. stock front & rear springs & torsions, externally adjustable Konis front, Bilstein Sport rear.

i was working Turn 7A and i could hear the distinctive exhaust note as the car made its 2nd or 3rd lower-speed (instructor on board) familiarisation lap through the esses. then it stopped.

i think she was going 75-85 somewhere between Turn 2 (typically the fastest turn on the course, more of a kink) and the bottom of the Esses. i think she was still out of shape leaving Turn 2 and may have put a wheel off approaching 3 (hence the compressive stress on the droplink). (important note: it is my conjecture that the link failed *before* the crash, but the spin could well have been fully developed and the link broken *after* the car went off. i'll never *really* know. but it is plausible.)

so - 17mm front bar (hey - it was big in those days...) set up mid-stiff and an H&H rear bar (5/8" -- 18mm i think - i still have the bar...). so when the front bar disconnected with the broken link, the car was instantly set up for MASSIVE oversteer.

did a snap 90-degree turn, and hit the inside curb with the left rear, bending the trailing arm like a pretzel. (what it is supposed to do - the pickup points in the tub are undamaged...) that tipped the car (sliding through gravel and slowing pretty quickly...) onto its left side and it skidded backwaard, uphill, a bit before rolling gently onto its top.

the leftside panels are pretty beat up, there are some dents in the Targa top. the back glass DID NOT break. the rear trunk lid opened and was folded pretty much in half (since re-flattened but it's history...) and of course the windscreen hoop was folded down a lot. the windscreen shattered, the driver's window (down) broke, i think the rightside is okay. the hood was untouched, as were all the right side panels. the left turn signal tunnel was flattened pretty good, and the top came off, so i have some latchpoint repairs to do there. the right door had previously had a BIG ding in it but of course it was not further damaged - just the left...

we got a few thousand from the insurance after months of work, and the car has been out of service since 1980. it has recently loaned many parts to the 911, but after i refit the 911 it should be getting them all back, with interest, and will be that much closer to being on the road again. i'm shooting for "its day" -- 9/14/06

it has been stored inside mostly, except for a few years when it was outside but well-covered in v-e-r-y dry northern NV. 23,000 total miles on the tub.

clearly, if 8mm links were as bad as i think they are, they'd be failing right and left and we'd hear about them a lot. but once was enough for me, and i'll continue to use and recommend 10mm parts. i have the damaged part to hold in my hand and the resultant damaged car to fix.

the choice is yours, it's your car, do what you want.

[chunger]

Someone PM'ed me about being interested in my 19mm swaybar so here are some pics. . . ball joints and zerks. Comparison bar is stock 17mm I believe.

-'Chung

[chunger]

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[chunger]

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[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (chunger @ Mar 4 2005, 08:44 AM)

Someone PM'ed me about being interested in my 19mm swaybar so here are some pics. . . ball joints and zerks. Comparison bar is stock 17mm I believe.

hey! i have that exact same setup! i was beginning to think i was the only one who bought one of those! i think there are a lot of advantages to the splined ends, but it does make it a challenge to find new/uprated/different lever arms...

i slightly enlarged the counterbores in the pillow block and used some stainless 3/8-24 Allen bolts already drilled for safety wire that i found in an industrial / military surplus liquidator...

i don't want to hijack Chunger's deal here. he's got first crack at it. my bar's a 17mm anyway - i think that works fine for a street or AX car but it's now considered way light for a track car.

OEM bars were 15mm. the torsion comparison formulas have been posted here before...

you want a 19mm bar, talk to Chunger. if it's been sold or you want a 17mm bar, you know how to reach me ...

[anthony]

Rich, who made those bars?

[TimT]

They look a bit like Charly Bars, but adjusting arm looks different

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (anthony @ Mar 4 2005, 11:24 AM)

Rich, who made those bars?

that is a harder question to answer than you might think :-) ...

John Bond Jr in San Diego had them made when he was starting up a racing parts company. AFAIK, it never really got off the ground -- he was working out of Wayne Baker's Personalised Autohaus and i gave him a check made out to "John Bond Jr" and got a bar and a bag of parts. one of his early (commercial) customers was Alan Johnson Racing (now AJ-USA).

this was what? - 1976-ish ...

the key "feature" was the broached splined ends, and i have no idea who made and/or owned the tooling, or where it might have ended up in the intervening 30 years.

at that time, there were not a lot of players - there were factory bars, and even in 1976 there were not a lot of choices in sizes and they all ran in rubber bushes. then there was H&H. and there was this local guy with a 550, a really fast ex-IROC 3,0 RSR who dabbled in IMSA west coast events and dominated the Zone 8 TT events, and he was selling parts that looked to be really well-engineered and was selling them at startup prices. so that's what i bought...

[anthony]

Wow, those bars have history.

[maf914]

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Mar 4 2005, 08:42 AM)

at that time, there were not a lot of players - there were factory bars, and even in 1976 there were not a lot of choices in sizes and they all ran in rubber bushes.  then there was H&H.

I have H&H bars on my car, adjustable 19mm front and fixed 16mm rear. They have worked fine for the street. I wasn't sure if H&H was still in business, but a few years ago I contacted them and bought a complete set of replacement rubber bushings to refresh everything. No complaints, but they're not as fancy as the bars available today.