New owner and rust repair, Gotta fight the cancer Options

[Dave_Darling]

Is a 74 with a GA engine.

Cool, a 2.0!

Key will start the car, but not stop the car. Need to stall it to shut the engine off.

Electrical is bogeyed up somewhere. Power is feeding back through something (very possibly a light?) into the ignition switch circuitry.

Needs repairs to the inner wheelhouse on both sides. I've only seen the right side panels for sale. Does anyone sell the left sides or am I fabricating one?

If RD doesn't carry it, check with the dealer. There may be one somewhere in the supply line, and there are people out there sitting on NOS body panels as well.

Or get one from a donor car (that side usually isn't too bad) or fab it yourself.

Missing the engine lid/vent knob

The most common reason is that the threads stripped out of it, or off of the end of the cable. If Mikey isn't producing these, used from our classifieds is the best bet.

I looked underneath, and there is only 1 heat exchanger/heater box (driver's side). The other looks either like a header, or that the tin was removed from the heat exchanger. Is this normal?

It's an easy "fix" for a badly rotted heat exchanger wrapping. Real headers don't stay separate all the way back, so it is pretty certain that yours is just the stock pipes with the wrapping cut off on one side.

There is an aux. fan in the engine bay (driver's side) behind the seat that looks plumbed into the heat exchanger.

Normal. In 70-72, the fan was centrally mounted (more or less) and had two outlets, one running to the heat exchanger on each side. In 73-74, they moved the fan to the left side, changed it to single outlet, and only plumbed it to the left side exchanger. There was a cap that blocked off the right side one. In 75-76, they put a splitter on the outlet of the fan, and ran it to both exchangers again. The engine cooling fan pushes air through the exchangers while the engine is running, so the electric fan is just a booster, primarily for while you're at idle.

--DD

[oildrips]

Is a 74 with a GA engine.

Cool, a 2.0!

Key will start the car, but not stop the car. Need to stall it to shut the engine off.

Electrical is bogeyed up somewhere. Power is feeding back through something (very possibly a light?) into the ignition switch circuitry.

Needs repairs to the inner wheelhouse on both sides. I've only seen the right side panels for sale. Does anyone sell the left sides or am I fabricating one?

If RD doesn't carry it, check with the dealer. There may be one somewhere in the supply line, and there are people out there sitting on NOS body panels as well.

Or get one from a donor car (that side usually isn't too bad) or fab it yourself.

Missing the engine lid/vent knob

The most common reason is that the threads stripped out of it, or off of the end of the cable. If Mikey isn't producing these, used from our classifieds is the best bet.

I looked underneath, and there is only 1 heat exchanger/heater box (driver's side). The other looks either like a header, or that the tin was removed from the heat exchanger. Is this normal?

It's an easy "fix" for a badly rotted heat exchanger wrapping. Real headers don't stay separate all the way back, so it is pretty certain that yours is just the stock pipes with the wrapping cut off on one side.

There is an aux. fan in the engine bay (driver's side) behind the seat that looks plumbed into the heat exchanger.

Normal. In 70-72, the fan was centrally mounted (more or less) and had two outlets, one running to the heat exchanger on each side. In 73-74, they moved the fan to the left side, changed it to single outlet, and only plumbed it to the left side exchanger. There was a cap that blocked off the right side one. In 75-76, they put a splitter on the outlet of the fan, and ran it to both exchangers again. The engine cooling fan pushes air through the exchangers while the engine is running, so the electric fan is just a booster, primarily for while you're at idle.

--DD

Thank you for all this info. I suspected the aux fan was only plumbed into the driver's side heat exchanger (the one I have). Was the piece that connected the engine cooling shroud to the heat exchanger unique on the 73-74? or was the shroud itself different (blocked off on the passenger side) as there is only 1 heat exchanger?

I'll likely end up just fabbing up the patch panels I need for this car. Stoddard has a left side inner wheelhouse, but it's $1500 USD (so like 1,000,000 CAD). I talked to the nice people at Restoration Design today, and they let me know that it's the uncommon side for repairs, so the part isn't being produced (gotta have a good return on investment)

[Dave_Darling]

Was the piece that connected the engine cooling shroud to the heat exchanger unique on the 73-74? or was the shroud itself different (blocked off on the passenger side) as there is only 1 heat exchanger?

All 70-74 914s used a pair of S-shaped ducts that connected the bottom of the fan shroud to the heat exchangers. They had J-shaped pipes that went from the S ducts up through the engine tin. Most of them had hoses that went onto the J tubes and went to the fan, except for the 73-74 cars on the passenger's side, which had a cap over the J tube.

--DD

[oildrips]

Was the piece that connected the engine cooling shroud to the heat exchanger unique on the 73-74? or was the shroud itself different (blocked off on the passenger side) as there is only 1 heat exchanger?

All 70-74 914s used a pair of S-shaped ducts that connected the bottom of the fan shroud to the heat exchangers. They had J-shaped pipes that went from the S ducts up through the engine tin. Most of them had hoses that went onto the J tubes and went to the fan, except for the 73-74 cars on the passenger's side, which had a cap over the J tube.

--DD

Thanks again for this. I think I partially got resolved my issue with the car not turning off. A question though. If the tach is hooked up with only + and -, and you turn the key, should there be power at the tach signal connector? For some reason, I'm getting 6.5 (or so) volts there, when no wire is hooked up. From my understanding, tach signal gets hooked up to coil -. Won't that cause a direct short? What reading should be on the back of the gauge when powered up, not running, on the signal terminal?

[oildrips]

Ok. Back up and running, but not well. Melted 2 sets of points. Is there a link to the best way to set up my timing/dwell?

[Old Yella]

Where are the bloody pictures of this wreck.

[Old Yella]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[oildrips]

Where are the bloody pictures of this wreck.

Black with white stripe on the last page.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=8&st=4600