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Project Home Coming 914 2.0, Ongoing Updates... |
LowBridge |
Aug 14 2015, 07:57 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 370 Joined: 10-August 15 From: Lunenburg, MA Member No.: 19,045 Region Association: North East States |
I'm new here and this is my first post..
I’ll start with a short back story.. I owned a 1975 914 2.0 in the early 80"s as a teenager and sold it many many years ago. About 9 months ago my youngest son (18yrs), wife and my dad decided to see if they could track down my car and well they did and last week my son along with my high school friend (who owned the car before me) drove down to GA buy it back. The previous owner had begun to restore but as we all know life happened and only got the car half way done, but in drivable condition which give us a great head start. I took the car for a short test drive and mechanically it worked, engine, brakes, gearbox all checked out well, so we bought the car and towed it home. Now the problem, only the front and side running lights and the passengers rear tail light worked. No headlights (high or low), fog lights and the driver’s rear tail light did not work. My son and I started to do a little investigating to see if it was something simple and found the fogs were not plugged in, so simple fix here. At this point my son tells me the running lights “feel” hot so I tell him to turn the key off because at this point no need to kill the battery (with all the reading I’m doing I now know this was a mistake to leave the key on). We also disconnect the battery with the heads lights in the up position so they are easier to work with. With the battery disconnected we start to disassembled the headlights and found the passenger side bulb burned out however the driver’s side was fine and but no power. We trouble shoot some more and I found a few more wires loose and make the connections. We now go back to try the lights again and reconnect the battery. The head lights go about 2/3’s back down and stop, we are dead with no power going anywhere and nothing happening when we turn the key. Just for giggles I remove the battery and charge it overnight, so just in case we killed it from earlier actions. I have checked my ground and metered it to make sure the connection was working (when we disconnect the battery I adjusted the ground wire because it was not on correctly). Additionally with more reading on the forums I think the 5 red wires coming off the battery go to the starter, ignition switch, fuse panel, hazard switch and relay board. We also disconnect all wires that we connected beforehand to get back to the same starting point. Now I do some more looking and find this (see picture) on what I think is the relay board in the engine compartment. The engine has been converted to Webers, so this seems to be some kind of crude jumper? I did have a spare relay and plugged it into that slot. At this point I’m not sure what to do next, I have ordered a color wiring diagram and a manual that should be here in a week. I did reconnect the battery and give the key a try but still dead, so thoughts? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.2.jpg) |
Spoke |
Aug 15 2015, 09:43 AM
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#2
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,978 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
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About those pop rivet relay contact replacements, this is for the fuel pump. The PO removed the fuel pump relay and just shorted the relay contacts together with the rivets. If the fuel pump runs ok, I wouldn't remove this jumper until you replace the relay. You should put tape on rivets to protect them since they are +12V. As far as the other electrical issues, pick one to work on and follow the wiring either from the element (light bulb) back to the power or from the power to the element. You will need a voltmeter to do this. If you don't have a voltmeter, borrow or buy one; you'll need it again and again. There are schematics on Pelican Parts you can use until you get the manuals you ordered. It's good to remove each fuse (disconnect battery negative first) and clean its contacts as well as the contacts on the fuse panel. You may want to check the resistance of the fuses just to make sure they are good. It's kinda hard to debug an issue over the internet when the PO may or may not have modified the wiring. |
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