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Project Home Coming 914 2.0, Ongoing Updates... |
LowBridge |
Aug 14 2015, 07:57 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 370 Joined: 10-August 15 From: Lunenburg, MA Member No.: 19,045 Region Association: North East States |
I'm new here and this is my first post..
I’ll start with a short back story.. I owned a 1975 914 2.0 in the early 80"s as a teenager and sold it many many years ago. About 9 months ago my youngest son (18yrs), wife and my dad decided to see if they could track down my car and well they did and last week my son along with my high school friend (who owned the car before me) drove down to GA buy it back. The previous owner had begun to restore but as we all know life happened and only got the car half way done, but in drivable condition which give us a great head start. I took the car for a short test drive and mechanically it worked, engine, brakes, gearbox all checked out well, so we bought the car and towed it home. Now the problem, only the front and side running lights and the passengers rear tail light worked. No headlights (high or low), fog lights and the driver’s rear tail light did not work. My son and I started to do a little investigating to see if it was something simple and found the fogs were not plugged in, so simple fix here. At this point my son tells me the running lights “feel” hot so I tell him to turn the key off because at this point no need to kill the battery (with all the reading I’m doing I now know this was a mistake to leave the key on). We also disconnect the battery with the heads lights in the up position so they are easier to work with. With the battery disconnected we start to disassembled the headlights and found the passenger side bulb burned out however the driver’s side was fine and but no power. We trouble shoot some more and I found a few more wires loose and make the connections. We now go back to try the lights again and reconnect the battery. The head lights go about 2/3’s back down and stop, we are dead with no power going anywhere and nothing happening when we turn the key. Just for giggles I remove the battery and charge it overnight, so just in case we killed it from earlier actions. I have checked my ground and metered it to make sure the connection was working (when we disconnect the battery I adjusted the ground wire because it was not on correctly). Additionally with more reading on the forums I think the 5 red wires coming off the battery go to the starter, ignition switch, fuse panel, hazard switch and relay board. We also disconnect all wires that we connected beforehand to get back to the same starting point. Now I do some more looking and find this (see picture) on what I think is the relay board in the engine compartment. The engine has been converted to Webers, so this seems to be some kind of crude jumper? I did have a spare relay and plugged it into that slot. At this point I’m not sure what to do next, I have ordered a color wiring diagram and a manual that should be here in a week. I did reconnect the battery and give the key a try but still dead, so thoughts? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.2.jpg) |
LowBridge |
Sep 27 2015, 11:41 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 370 Joined: 10-August 15 From: Lunenburg, MA Member No.: 19,045 Region Association: North East States |
ok finally found the electrical short in the steering column.. on the headlight cluster there is a small grounding tab that connects this circuit to the steering column and it was broken so that it sometimes worked and other times not so much..
wow that was a real pain to trouble shoot. We have started to rebuild both the rear and front suspensions because the passengers side swing arm bushings are completely worn out (big movement in the wheel) and after really looking at everything else I noticed that parts I put on the suspension back in the 80"s are still on it. So everything most go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) , however I do have a question about removing the front control arm knowing there is a torsion bar in there. with the car up on stands is this bar under load? I'm thinking it is and if so will jacking the arm up level with ride height release this load? Or better yet, what's the simple way to remove them? Now on to the picture.. the PO told me he had replaced the fuel line and I have now looked at it... the PO used standard hardware store aluminum tubing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) also notice how they used a grommet at the fire wall where the line is rubbing metal on metal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) and the same grommet was used where it passes through the engine tin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif), so fire was just a matter of time. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1443375711.1.jpg) next question/picture is the master cylinder, I know the PO replaced the front calipers with some type of Volvo caliper and we have replaced them with PMB ones ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) ) but the peddle is still super soft even after tons of bleeding and no bubbles showing. So I'm not sure how to tell what size or even if the master cylinder is correct. We also have a flex when my son presses the brake peddle and I'm under the car looking at the master. I did find this website where they make a brace (Master Cylinder Brace however here are a few pictures on the master cylinder (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1443375711.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1443375712.3.jpg) thoughts? |
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