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Project Home Coming 914 2.0, Ongoing Updates... |
LowBridge |
Aug 14 2015, 07:57 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 370 Joined: 10-August 15 From: Lunenburg, MA Member No.: 19,045 Region Association: North East States |
I'm new here and this is my first post..
I’ll start with a short back story.. I owned a 1975 914 2.0 in the early 80"s as a teenager and sold it many many years ago. About 9 months ago my youngest son (18yrs), wife and my dad decided to see if they could track down my car and well they did and last week my son along with my high school friend (who owned the car before me) drove down to GA buy it back. The previous owner had begun to restore but as we all know life happened and only got the car half way done, but in drivable condition which give us a great head start. I took the car for a short test drive and mechanically it worked, engine, brakes, gearbox all checked out well, so we bought the car and towed it home. Now the problem, only the front and side running lights and the passengers rear tail light worked. No headlights (high or low), fog lights and the driver’s rear tail light did not work. My son and I started to do a little investigating to see if it was something simple and found the fogs were not plugged in, so simple fix here. At this point my son tells me the running lights “feel” hot so I tell him to turn the key off because at this point no need to kill the battery (with all the reading I’m doing I now know this was a mistake to leave the key on). We also disconnect the battery with the heads lights in the up position so they are easier to work with. With the battery disconnected we start to disassembled the headlights and found the passenger side bulb burned out however the driver’s side was fine and but no power. We trouble shoot some more and I found a few more wires loose and make the connections. We now go back to try the lights again and reconnect the battery. The head lights go about 2/3’s back down and stop, we are dead with no power going anywhere and nothing happening when we turn the key. Just for giggles I remove the battery and charge it overnight, so just in case we killed it from earlier actions. I have checked my ground and metered it to make sure the connection was working (when we disconnect the battery I adjusted the ground wire because it was not on correctly). Additionally with more reading on the forums I think the 5 red wires coming off the battery go to the starter, ignition switch, fuse panel, hazard switch and relay board. We also disconnect all wires that we connected beforehand to get back to the same starting point. Now I do some more looking and find this (see picture) on what I think is the relay board in the engine compartment. The engine has been converted to Webers, so this seems to be some kind of crude jumper? I did have a spare relay and plugged it into that slot. At this point I’m not sure what to do next, I have ordered a color wiring diagram and a manual that should be here in a week. I did reconnect the battery and give the key a try but still dead, so thoughts? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.2.jpg) |
Dave_Darling |
Dec 11 2015, 08:58 PM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,981 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Don't do four-points. Submarining is a thing, and even if you don't slip out from under the belt, there's nothing to keep the buckle from turning edge-on into your gut. Which is kinda bad for you if you actually need the belt.
Use the stock three-point belts, they're plenty good for the street. If you're going on the track, Step Zero is to RTFR--Read The Rulebook. Very few places will let you run with four-points. Five- or six-points are the way to go; the single or dual sub straps keep the belt down around your hips where it belongs. But a lot of places require a seat with built-in pass-throughs for the belts (professionally built seats, not home-modified stock seats) if you're using multi-point restraints. I have six-points that I installed many years ago. I used a harness bar to mount the upper belts, and eye-bolts in the stock belt holes to mount the lap belts and dual sub straps. It would not pass tech today; the shoulder belts need to be attached to the firewall and only pass over the harness bar, and only one belt is allowed to be attached to any single point so the sub straps wouldn't fly either. And I have stock seats with no pass-throughs. (Even though the belts don't go through the seat when I'm sitting in it.) Use the stock three-point belts, they're a whole lot simpler. --DD |
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