Cut vs. remove entire rear quarter., Facts and opinions? |
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Cut vs. remove entire rear quarter., Facts and opinions? |
mbseto |
Aug 15 2015, 03:47 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
In most rustoration threads, it looks like people cut part of the rear fender out rather than remove the whole thing. I've assumed this is because if you are running a shop, this is just the more efficient way to do it. Who has removed an entire fender? What are the pros/cons? If you are not running a business, does it make more sense to remove the fender on one piece?
Thanks... |
Mike Bellis |
Aug 15 2015, 04:44 PM
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#2
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
They do it because it's less work and you don't have to worry about the unibody bending and tweaking as much.
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rgalla9146 |
Aug 15 2015, 05:11 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,560 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
They do it because it is less invasive.
Most of the original perimeter remains intact. Factory pimples and all. The damaged area is replaced and a well done (hopefully !) butt weld will disapear because of superior skill . |
rick 918-S |
Aug 15 2015, 05:32 PM
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#4
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,470 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
It's a difficult answer. There are so many variables to the reason why you would remove the entire panel. Here are some. Rust damage on the sail and the rear corner along with damage. not wanting to try to weld in a section for fear of warping the panels or any number of other reasons. Personally, if I had a full panel I would just do it right and change it.
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mbseto |
Aug 16 2015, 12:15 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
Thanks for the input.
...superior skill . Yeah, this is what makes me nervous... ...if I had a full panel I would just do it right and change it. Let me add some context... I'm repairing the long and suspension pylon, and just need access. The fender is in good shape, I wish I did not have to remove it at all. Whatever I cut off will eventually be welded back on. Just trying to decide on the lesser of two evils. The comments above about maintaining stiffness and stability resonate. Sounds like the consensus is to cut the panel in half, if you're doing it for access and the panel itself is not needing replacement. Any other advice/warnings/gotchas? |
stevegm |
Aug 16 2015, 12:25 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,111 Joined: 14-July 14 From: North Carolina Member No.: 17,633 Region Association: South East States |
It seems like this also comes up a lot when trying to weld the top of the jack post support. In that case, to get access, I have seen a lot of people cut a small diagonal piece out of the lower quarter panel. Makes me cringe. But it seems fairly common. I'd ask Rick or Scotty to weigh in on your specific situation, if possible, and go with what they suggest.
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SA-914 |
Oct 19 2015, 07:44 AM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 126 Joined: 30-June 14 From: San Antonio,tx Member No.: 17,566 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I'm at the point where I need to replace the drivers side jack post and clean up the long. I've been trying to figure out the minimum amount of fender to cut out?
Anyone have pictures of the smallest cut needed? |
brettrarnold |
Oct 19 2015, 07:59 AM
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#8
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New 914 owner in Lakewood CO Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 11-September 15 From: Lakewood, Colorado Member No.: 19,149 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I'm at the point where I need to replace the drivers side jack post and clean up the long. I've been trying to figure out the minimum amount of fender to cut out? Anyone have pictures of the smallest cut needed? I am in the same position for the passenger side and going to start cutting in here in a few weeks. I will post photos of what I do under my challenge thread -Brett |
dlee6204 |
Oct 19 2015, 08:03 AM
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#9
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Howdy Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 30-April 06 From: Burnsville, NC Member No.: 5,956 |
I'm at the point where I need to replace the drivers side jack post and clean up the long. I've been trying to figure out the minimum amount of fender to cut out? Anyone have pictures of the smallest cut needed? If you're just doing the jack point I like to cut out a small hole in the door jamb only and leave the fender alone. |
JoeDees |
Oct 19 2015, 05:22 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 515 Joined: 10-November 14 From: Northern Kentucky Member No.: 18,106 Region Association: None |
I have a weird question... How would it be to just delete the jack posts? If you're never going to use the factory jack, would it do any harm to delete?
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EdwardBlume |
Oct 19 2015, 05:35 PM
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#11
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California |
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trojanhorsepower |
Oct 19 2015, 05:46 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 861 Joined: 21-September 03 From: Marion, NC Member No.: 1,179 Region Association: None |
I removed the entire quarter because it has some damage, but if I wish I could have just removed a section. It is much easier to get proper fitament on a patch than the massive rear quarter.
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ThePaintedMan |
Oct 19 2015, 06:07 PM
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#13
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
For me, a thin Dremel disc was all it took to take out the section I needed, maybe 2 of them. Then, when welding the section back on, you simply need to space it with the same thickness as the disc was. Tack in a couple places, check fitment. Then continue tacking it back in, doing one or two tacks every few minutes. Remember to let the panel cool and dissipate heat - Don't rush!
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JoeDees |
Oct 19 2015, 06:08 PM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 515 Joined: 10-November 14 From: Northern Kentucky Member No.: 18,106 Region Association: None |
I have a weird question... How would it be to just delete the jack posts? If you're never going to use the factory jack, would it do any harm to delete? I did this once. There's nothing to hold the plug on. True. My thought was that if done, I would smooth out the rocker panel. Did it look dumb without the post and plate? |
r_towle |
Oct 19 2015, 06:53 PM
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#15
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,584 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Done on more tha. A few cars.
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SA-914 |
Dec 28 2015, 07:12 AM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 126 Joined: 30-June 14 From: San Antonio,tx Member No.: 17,566 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I was able to get the jack post off with an air chisel. I was surprised how easy. I first tried to drill out the spot welds, but did not have the patience.
IMG_1598.pdf ( 202.68k ) Number of downloads: 61 |
scotty b |
Dec 28 2015, 10:31 AM
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#17
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) What Rick said. Ideally i'd rather remove the whole panel, but in a shop situation, you can't just do that and charge a customer for what you'd "rather " do. Removing a section does the trick and costs the owner a lot less.
as for the jack post they have no structural value and are fine to completely remove, as stated above, the plug won't stay put without glue of some sort, or do as I am going to do, and just weld the square hole shut |
jmill |
Dec 28 2015, 11:36 AM
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#18
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Green Hornet Group: Members Posts: 2,449 Joined: 9-May 08 From: Racine, Wisconsin Member No.: 9,038 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I have little skill but managed to make a clean butt joint. It does take patience and lots and lots of spot welds. Line it up straight and tack where the seam meets evenly. I also used a large vice grip to squeeze the panels flush. Then use a dolly block and body hammer to line up the edge where it's slightly off.
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rightpedal |
Dec 28 2015, 06:49 PM
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#19
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rightpeda; Group: Members Posts: 60 Joined: 6-September 15 From: annapolis Member No.: 19,133 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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