In most rustoration threads, it looks like people cut part of the rear fender out rather than remove the whole thing. I've assumed this is because if you are running a shop, this is just the more efficient way to do it. Who has removed an entire fender? What are the pros/cons? If you are not running a business, does it make more sense to remove the fender on one piece?

Thanks...

They do it because it's less work and you don't have to worry about the unibody bending and tweaking as much.

They do it because it is less invasive.
Most of the original perimeter remains intact. Factory pimples and all.
The damaged area is replaced and a well done (hopefully !) butt weld will disapear because of superior skill .

It's a difficult answer. There are so many variables to the reason why you would remove the entire panel. Here are some. Rust damage on the sail and the rear corner along with damage. not wanting to try to weld in a section for fear of warping the panels or any number of other reasons. Personally, if I had a full panel I would just do it right and change it.

Thanks for the input.



Yeah, this is what makes me nervous...



Let me add some context... I'm repairing the long and suspension pylon, and just need access. The fender is in good shape, I wish I did not have to remove it at all. Whatever I cut off will eventually be welded back on. Just trying to decide on the lesser of two evils. The comments above about maintaining stiffness and stability resonate.

Sounds like the consensus is to cut the panel in half, if you're doing it for access and the panel itself is not needing replacement. Any other advice/warnings/gotchas?

It seems like this also comes up a lot when trying to weld the top of the jack post support. In that case, to get access, I have seen a lot of people cut a small diagonal piece out of the lower quarter panel. Makes me cringe. But it seems fairly common. I'd ask Rick or Scotty to weigh in on your specific situation, if possible, and go with what they suggest.

I'm at the point where I need to replace the drivers side jack post and clean up the long. I've been trying to figure out the minimum amount of fender to cut out?

Anyone have pictures of the smallest cut needed?

I am in the same position for the passenger side and going to start cutting in here in a few weeks. I will post photos of what I do under my challenge thread

-Brett

If you're just doing the jack point I like to cut out a small hole in the door jamb only and leave the fender alone.

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I have a weird question... How would it be to just delete the jack posts? If you're never going to use the factory jack, would it do any harm to delete?

I did this once. There's nothing to hold the plug on.

I removed the entire quarter because it has some damage, but if I wish I could have just removed a section. It is much easier to get proper fitament on a patch than the massive rear quarter.

For me, a thin Dremel disc was all it took to take out the section I needed, maybe 2 of them. Then, when welding the section back on, you simply need to space it with the same thickness as the disc was. Tack in a couple places, check fitment. Then continue tacking it back in, doing one or two tacks every few minutes. Remember to let the panel cool and dissipate heat - Don't rush!

True. My thought was that if done, I would smooth out the rocker panel.

Did it look dumb without the post and plate?

Done on more tha. A few cars.

I was able to get the jack post off with an air chisel. I was surprised how easy. I first tried to drill out the spot welds, but did not have the patience.
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What Rick said. Ideally i'd rather remove the whole panel, but in a shop situation, you can't just do that and charge a customer for what you'd "rather " do. Removing a section does the trick and costs the owner a lot less.

as for the jack post they have no structural value and are fine to completely remove, as stated above, the plug won't stay put without glue of some sort, or do as I am going to do, and just weld the square hole shut

I have little skill but managed to make a clean butt joint. It does take patience and lots and lots of spot welds. Line it up straight and tack where the seam meets evenly. I also used a large vice grip to squeeze the panels flush. Then use a dolly block and body hammer to line up the edge where it's slightly off.

Paying attention. I have to do this in duplicate. I don't have much of a choice. The whole fender needs replaced. The former owner left me little choice.


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The plan is to swap the MGA out of the shop and put the 914 in this month.

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Fortunately the rear fenders on the parts car are in decent shape.