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> Help ! Which Car would U Pick ?
Beakster
post Aug 15 2015, 09:41 PM
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I have 2 914 to choose from Which one is the better deal ..

Car 1
71 914 has 1.7 that the guy sunk a ton of $$$ in the eng new pistons and barrels ,heads ,intakes, oil cooler, new crane electronic Ignition system with new ceramic wires and plugs, blaster II coil , new gaskets and push rod tubs .. The dual weber have been rebuilt and have had a bunch of work done to it .. Suspension is mostly stock 4-5bolt adapters with fancy mags ..he has told me that all the rust areas have been fixed .. so there's no rust issues. he has a few extra parts but the car runs .. But he is asking $6000.00

Car 2
73 914 has a 2.0 that was rebuilt with new pistons , dual 44 webers , full advance distributor ,and headers , 911s cross drilled 5 bolt rotors , transition kit new CV boots and set of fuchs .. But the car has been sitting for 6 years and Dosen't run because it won't turn over and I don't know how the body is for rust .. BUT he only is wanting $2500.00 too ..

So I'm stuck because I don't know the rust problems or why the eng won't turn over on car 2 .. That's what holding me back .. the cars aren't local for me to check out ..
So what car would you pick and WHY ..?
What's a transition Kit ??
P.S. Thanks Guys I'm sure Learning a lot about 914's from everyone else projects .. a BIG THANK'S to everyone .. like they say (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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boxsterfan
post Aug 15 2015, 10:01 PM
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914's are kewl
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You need to see pictures of the longs and hell holes of each car first.....regardless of the rest of the parts installed.
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thelogo
post Aug 15 2015, 10:03 PM
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QUOTE(Beakster @ Aug 15 2015, 08:41 PM) *

I have 2 914 to choose from Which one is the better deal ..

Car 1
71 914 has 1.7 that the guy sunk a ton of $$$ in the eng new pistons and barrels ,heads ,intakes, oil cooler, new crane electronic Ignition system with new ceramic wires and plugs, blaster II coil , new gaskets and push rod tubs .. The dual weber have been rebuilt and have had a bunch of work done to it .. Suspension is mostly stock 4-5bolt adapters with fancy mags ..he has told me that all the rust areas have been fixed .. so there's no rust issues. he has a few extra parts but the car runs .. But he is asking $6000.00

Car 2
73 914 has a 2.0 that was rebuilt with new pistons , dual 44 webers , full advance distributor ,and headers , 911s cross drilled 5 bolt rotors , transition kit new CV boots and set of fuchs .. But the car has been sitting for 6 years and Dosen't run because it won't turn over and I don't know how the body is for rust .. BUT he only is wanting $2500.00 too ..

So I'm stuck because I don't know the rust problems or why the eng won't turn over on car 2 .. That's what holding me back .. the cars aren't local for me to check out ..
So what car would you pick and WHY ..?
What's a transition Kit ??
P.S. Thanks Guys I'm sure Learning a lot about 914's from everyone else projects .. a BIG THANK'S to everyone .. like they say (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)







1st I'd pick a 914 that doesn't have carburetor s

It's one thing if you put em on yourself ,but don't go paying for someone else's

Mistake s
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mikedsilva
post Aug 15 2015, 10:07 PM
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Easy... At those prices, buy both.
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dangerranger01
post Aug 15 2015, 10:09 PM
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Base your choice off of the condition of the body. These cars have rust (read: HAVE rust). so pick the best one in the group. Rust repair will add up very fast, so pick your battle.
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mgp4591
post Aug 15 2015, 11:43 PM
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QUOTE(dangerranger01 @ Aug 15 2015, 10:09 PM) *

Base your choice off of the condition of the body. These cars have rust (read: HAVE rust). so pick the best one in the group. Rust repair will add up very fast, so pick your battle.

And ask the owner for LOTS of pictures- be specific as to which areas you want to see.
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damesandhotrods
post Aug 16 2015, 01:16 AM
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Pictures help, but they are not good enough for an accurate rust appraisal. You’re going to have to get underneath and start poking too be sure about the state of the rust. If you can’t do that, have someone do a pre-purchase inspection. The engine, wheels, and all the rest are the easiest, and the cheapest part of the equation. The decision of which car comes down which has the best body…
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b.stirbu
post Aug 16 2015, 01:35 AM
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I would go for the car that runs..maybe you can negociate a bit.
When I've bought mine, I thought that I only have to change the fuel pump...and 3 months later it's still on the bridge with lots of money and time invested in it..

When you buy a car that was sitting long you'll have to rebuild your brake calipers, probably brake master cilinder, replace all the rubbers, discover what other problems he has. Then mostly every bolt you touch will break, get stuck and sometimes you'll loose hours to remove it...

It depends what you want.. to enjoy the car and ride it without too much hustle go for the good one.
If you want to start a project for the next years go for the cheaper one...
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Annapolis914
post Aug 16 2015, 04:16 AM
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If you are good with a wrench I would go with the least expensive and enjoy your project. If not, def buy one that needs the min amount of work. Without photos and someone checking out, I am not sure I would buy either. I did this and walked into bad brakes and lots of little things like electric screwed up and more. Needless to say, I have put another $4-5K into what was supposed to be a "show" car. No regrets as car runs great, but hope others avoid my mistake of trusting seller w/o physical inspection.
Of the two, I think a 2.0 is more fun to drive.......but I am a 2.0 owner.
You might want to consider waiting for a local 914 to appear, inevitable that this happens.
Best of luck, peace.
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AndyB
post Aug 16 2015, 05:47 AM
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IMO I would look at both cars and decide after seeing them in person.
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Harpo
post Aug 16 2015, 05:57 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) go see the cars or arrange for someone else to go see the cars.

Got to look at the hell hole under the battery and the longs behind the rocker pannels as others have pointed out.
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Beakster
post Aug 16 2015, 06:23 AM
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QUOTE(thelogo @ Aug 15 2015, 10:03 PM) *

QUOTE(Beakster @ Aug 15 2015, 08:41 PM) *

I have 2 914 to choose from Which one is the better deal ..

Car 1
71 914 has 1.7 that the guy sunk a ton of $$$ in the eng new pistons and barrels ,heads ,intakes, oil cooler, new crane electronic Ignition system with new ceramic wires and plugs, blaster II coil , new gaskets and push rod tubs .. The dual weber have been rebuilt and have had a bunch of work done to it .. Suspension is mostly stock 4-5bolt adapters with fancy mags ..he has told me that all the rust areas have been fixed .. so there's no rust issues. he has a few extra parts but the car runs .. But he is asking $6000.00

Car 2
73 914 has a 2.0 that was rebuilt with new pistons , dual 44 webers , full advance distributor ,and headers , 911s cross drilled 5 bolt rotors , transition kit new CV boots and set of fuchs .. But the car has been sitting for 6 years and Dosen't run because it won't turn over and I don't know how the body is for rust .. BUT he only is wanting $2500.00 too ..

So I'm stuck because I don't know the rust problems or why the eng won't turn over on car 2 .. That's what holding me back .. the cars aren't local for me to check out ..
So what car would you pick and WHY ..?
What's a transition Kit ??
P.S. Thanks Guys I'm sure Learning a lot about 914's from everyone else projects .. a BIG THANK'S to everyone .. like they say (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)







1st I'd pick a 914 that doesn't have carburetor s

It's one thing if you put em on yourself ,but don't go paying for someone else's

Mistake s

Your right ..... I hate messing around with the carbs it seems they are always need to bet tuned or set or the weather is off or some thing .. I'm seriously looking at doing a Fuel injected Turbo 2.0 for my eng ..
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somd914
post Aug 16 2015, 06:23 AM
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I agree rust is a major concern and a major repair expense - previous repairs should be checked out as well as a thorough check for existing rust - and keep in mind, rust is always ten times worse than it appears.

And for either engine, is there supporting documentation for the rebuilds?

I'd say given the prices, both are in need of work. What is your goal?
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r_towle
post Aug 16 2015, 07:24 AM
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Buy both, you will end up with two eventually so you may as well start out right
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EdwardBlume
post Aug 16 2015, 07:32 AM
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Don't buy either without more info. Although the 2.0 could be parted out and get your 2500 back.
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Cairo94507
post Aug 16 2015, 07:36 AM
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Make your decision after you thoroughly inspect the bodies of each car. Rebuilding a motor is one thing - repairing a butt-load of rust is quite another.

I personally would want the '73 2.0, but if the body was not in good condition I would pass on it.
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Beakster
post Aug 16 2015, 08:41 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Hey guys .... I first want to stat of with thanking everyone for their views and remarks moving from the 78 turbo 911's to 914's has been a big learning curve But I've been learning a lot .. Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Now about the two cars .. I tend to agree with the thing with rust It never sleeps and the thing is I have seen guys take years trying to repair it all .. I don't have that kinda time or the Patience to go thru another 3-5yr project ..

The only hurdle I have is I really can't stand the sound of a 4cyl Porsche It reminds me of a VW Bug ... I'm really hope to change that with some headers and a better muffler .. any suggestions .. Thanks again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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whitetwinturbo
post Aug 16 2015, 09:32 AM
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Honey, does this wing make my ass look fat?
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)
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somd914
post Aug 16 2015, 10:00 AM
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QUOTE(Beakster @ Aug 16 2015, 10:41 AM) *

The only hurdle I have is I really can't stand the sound of a 4cyl Porsche It reminds me of a VW Bug ... I'm really hope to change that with some headers and a better muffler .. any suggestions .. Thanks again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)


Triad mufflers are great sounding and great quality:

http://www.triadwestperformance.com/Products.htm

For me I run a MagnaFlow grafted onto a Bursch collector salvaged from a Bursch muffler. Sounds decent, nice and throaty on acceleration, but once it goes I'll go for a Triad.

My biggest issue is valve train noise. Even adjusted Type IVs seem to be noisy.
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ConeDodger
post Aug 16 2015, 10:06 AM
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Until you lay eyes and hands on both, I would leave your wallet out of it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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