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> My parts list..., Okay, whaddya think?
Lawrence
post Jun 9 2003, 08:56 AM
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Am I missing anything?

914/6 Clutch package (TO bearing, pressure plate, 6 spring clutch disk)
914/6 flywheel, 5 bolts and metal crush gasket
pilot bearing and felt
Flywheel o-ring
muffler gaskets, 2

914/6 rear main seal

914/6 (901) input shaft seal
914/6 (901) output shaft seals, 2 each
914/6 (901) speedo drive seal and o-ring
914/6 (901) cover plate gasket

Valve adjustment kit


And because I have DWD: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

914/6 headers 1 5/8th
914/6 exhaust/head bolts

Front Koni Yellow Sports
Rear Koni Yellow Sports
Front suspension bushings
Rear suspension bushings
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si2t3m
post Jun 9 2003, 09:19 AM
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don't know if this was a catch but...

You are missing one flywheel bolt... (I counted 6 on your flywheel not 5) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

4 CV gaskets
those little serated (sp?) washers for the CV bolts.

HTH

Marc-André
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Lawrence
post Jun 9 2003, 09:34 AM
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Thanks, Marc. Good catch! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I've got the CV joint gaskets, but new serrated washers would be good.
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Qarl
post Jun 9 2003, 09:39 AM
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Woo hoo!

She'll feel like new after you get finished! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Good luck!
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Bleyseng
post Jun 9 2003, 09:44 AM
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If you are in there replace the cup bushing 901.116.741.01,retaining plate 901.116.077.01, and 2 guide pieces 901.116.825.11. That's DWD but then you know all of it is good. That cup bushing always seems to be in pieces when I inspect them.

Geoff
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Lawrence
post Jun 9 2003, 10:24 AM
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Thanks, I'll add the cup bushing to the list.

Curious... I can't picture the retaining plate. Should I be able to see it with the transmission out?

-Rusty
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Lawrence
post Jun 9 2003, 10:25 AM
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Time to amend the list?

The headers are held on with barrel nuts, right... not bolts? I'm already soaking them in penetrant. It'll be two weeks of soaking before I try to take them off.

Should I tap them or anything?

-Rusty
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Bleyseng
post Jun 9 2003, 10:37 AM
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The retaining plate holds the clutch arm onto that little ball pivot. Look on the back side of it to see the small bolt that holds it on so you can remove it.

Use some heat on 'em to free them up. I use PB Blaster for a penatrating oil works great.

Geoff
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maf914
post Jun 9 2003, 11:18 AM
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Go with Geoff's recommendation. The retaining clip, which keeps the TO bearing arm on the pivot ball, on mine was cracked and could have failed at any time. The plastic cup bushing was worn through and also cracked. Shot. These pieces are only a couple of dollars each.

Mike
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Bleyseng
post Jun 9 2003, 12:23 PM
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Check out this deal on six heat exchangers, Rusty!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2418003086
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Lawrence
post Jun 9 2003, 12:27 PM
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Thanks for the heads up. I was checking out this guy's auctions before he put this piece up. He was going to build a /6 conversion, then ended up buying a complete car.

If I can snag them for a decent price, jet hot coat them, then I'd never need to worry about it again.

-Rusty
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si2t3m
post Jun 9 2003, 03:12 PM
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Hi Lawrence,

regarding the heat exchanger barrel nuts used for the heads, IIRC some studs need barrel nuts (the blind holes in those heat exchangers and some use bolts.

It's something odd like 9 barrel nuts and 3 bolts (not sure about the count).

HTH

Marc-Andre
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Lawrence
post Jun 9 2003, 04:43 PM
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I didn't realize there were both under there.

I can't wait until my car is on the road again... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

-Rusty
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