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> Turbo valve cover modification for installation in a 6, Anybody done it?
bdstone914
post Sep 18 2015, 08:42 AM
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I have a customer who wants to add billet lower valve covers to a 6 conversion. He had one machine shop botch the first pair. Anybody done this and know how much material needs to be removed to clear the suspension point? I drawing showing the area to machined and the finished thickness would be ideal.

Please pm me if you can help
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Luke M
post Sep 18 2015, 10:01 AM
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Had this done not too long ago. The machine shop shaved all the fins down on the lower turbo valve covers to the same height as the stud mount holes.
Cost $100.00 IIRC


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mepstein
post Sep 18 2015, 10:26 AM
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scotty b did mine at his local shop. 5/16". I doubt it was more than $50.
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Mark Henry
post Sep 18 2015, 10:52 AM
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Turbo covers are heavy, you likely could take the fins right off. Mine are also shaved down to the top of the stud bosses, about 1/4" of fin left.


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mepstein
post Sep 18 2015, 11:08 AM
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heres what scotty did.


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0396
post Sep 18 2015, 06:54 PM
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No need to shave the whole valve cover. The extended fins are there for cooling. Based on my little knowledge, all one has to do is to reduce #5&6 cylinder side .
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gereed75
post Sep 18 2015, 07:27 PM
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QUOTE(396 @ Sep 18 2015, 08:54 PM) *

No need to shave the whole valve cover. The extended fins are there for cooling. Based on my little knowledge, all one has to do is to reduce #5&6 cylinder side .



This is all that needs to be done


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porschetub
post Sep 18 2015, 07:27 PM
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QUOTE(396 @ Sep 19 2015, 12:54 PM) *

No need to shave the whole valve cover. The extended fins are there for cooling. Based on my little knowledge, all one has to do is to reduce #5&6 cylinder side .

My thoughts too and correct as far as I know,not to mention the cover will be weaker and probably twist and leak like the mag ones anyway.
I think it was John Walker on Pelican who mentioned the turbo covers leak after a period of time anyway, with the fins milled of you just end up with expensive bling surely.
People say the mag one twist and leak,they also loose paint of the rear sealing surface and that doesn't help,one of mine have done that.
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Mark Henry
post Sep 18 2015, 09:38 PM
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QUOTE(396 @ Sep 18 2015, 08:54 PM) *

No need to shave the whole valve cover. The extended fins are there for cooling. Based on my little knowledge, all one has to do is to reduce #5&6 cylinder side .


I doubt if it would make much of a difference.
My VW bus type one engine has a 3-1/2 quart Gene Berg oil sump, it's a huge chunk of aluminum covered with fins. Berg did all kinds of testing and only got an average 7 degree temp drop. The benefit was the added oil capacity to keep up with the high volume oil pump.
A couple fins on a cover isn't going to amount to a hill of beans.

As far as being weaker the Capt'n used to always laugh at people who spent money on turbo covers, as he felt the aluminum SC cover was more than strong enough...and dirt cheap.
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bigkensteele
post Sep 18 2015, 09:50 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 18 2015, 07:38 PM) *

As far as being weaker the Capt'n used to always laugh at people who spent money on turbo covers, as he felt the aluminum SC cover was more than strong enough...and dirt cheap.


Mark, where would one go to buy these dirt cheap SC valve covers, and how cheap is dirt cheap?

EDIT: To refine my question, what it the best parts yard that has fair pricing and shipping charges?
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porschetub
post Sep 18 2015, 11:23 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 19 2015, 03:38 PM) *

QUOTE(396 @ Sep 18 2015, 08:54 PM) *

No need to shave the whole valve cover. The extended fins are there for cooling. Based on my little knowledge, all one has to do is to reduce #5&6 cylinder side .


I doubt if it would make much of a difference.
My VW bus type one engine has a 3-1/2 quart Gene Berg oil sump, it's a huge chunk of aluminum covered with fins. Berg did all kinds of testing and only got an average 7 degree temp drop. The benefit was the added oil capacity to keep up with the high volume oil pump.
A couple fins on a cover isn't going to amount to a hill of beans.

As far as being weaker the Capt'n used to always laugh at people who spent money on turbo covers, as he felt the aluminum SC cover was more than strong enough...and dirt cheap.


Yea but my point was that you mill the fins off and that's half of the reason gone to buy them.
Dirt cheap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) my pricing came back as up to $230 each new or $200-300 used hardly dirt cheap,but they used to be.
Personally I would rather speed the money on a good set of engine compartment seals and keep my engine clean underneath than spend this kind of money,there are a lot of good aftermarket gaskets out there to sort this issue with the stock covers also.
Fairs fair but your comparison between between a T1 and a 911 isn't really valid,the 911 motor in a 914 needs all the cooling it can get and generates a lot of oil temp.


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pete000
post Sep 19 2015, 12:08 AM
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QUOTE(gereed75 @ Sep 18 2015, 06:27 PM) *

QUOTE(396 @ Sep 18 2015, 08:54 PM) *

No need to shave the whole valve cover. The extended fins are there for cooling. Based on my little knowledge, all one has to do is to reduce #5&6 cylinder side .



This is all that needs to be done



This is what mine look like...They did not machine off the whole cover just the corner.
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colingreene
post Sep 19 2015, 03:37 AM
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i could do it, its not exactly hard.
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rgalla9146
post Sep 19 2015, 08:32 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 18 2015, 12:52 PM) *

Turbo covers are heavy, you likely could take the fins right off. Mine are also shaved down to the top of the stud bosses, about 1/4" of fin left.


Mmmmmm..... twin plug !
Is it difficult to remove the #2 plug connector ?
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Mark Henry
post Sep 19 2015, 09:56 AM
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QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Sep 19 2015, 10:32 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 18 2015, 12:52 PM) *

Turbo covers are heavy, you likely could take the fins right off. Mine are also shaved down to the top of the stud bosses, about 1/4" of fin left.


Mmmmmm..... twin plug !
Is it difficult to remove the #2 plug connector ?


I just tried it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
It's tight, you have to sneak it out, but I didn't have to force it

QUOTE(porschetub @ Sep 19 2015, 01:23 AM) *



Yea but my point was that you mill the fins off and that's half of the reason gone to buy them.
Dirt cheap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) my pricing came back as up to $230 each new or $200-300 used hardly dirt cheap,but they used to be.
Personally I would rather speed the money on a good set of engine compartment seals and keep my engine clean underneath than spend this kind of money,there are a lot of good aftermarket gaskets out there to sort this issue with the stock covers also.
Fairs fair but your comparison between between a T1 and a 911 isn't really valid,the 911 motor in a 914 needs all the cooling it can get and generates a lot of oil temp.


Well I admit I haven't needed to buy parts for almost 3 years and I know in that time prices have exploded, but you used to see good used SC covers on the bird for $30-40 a pair. The SC cover looks just like the early mag covers but are heavier and made out of aluminum.
As far as the type one comparison, IMHO is a good comparison it's aircooled and in high performance trim they have all kinds of heat issues. It's all about surface area and air flow, do you really think 4 little fins in a hot area is going to make a huge difference? My 2.0 berg engine running 8 quarts of oil and the added surface area of the sump still over heated, till I put 2" standoffs on the decklid increasing airflow. Oil has a real piss poor heat transfer rate.
The only way fins on the cover will make a noticeable difference is if each cover has ten 3" fins. BTW this as been done by a guy on the bird.
To me good engine seals, etc., is super important on all aircooleds so I totally agree with that statement.
Airflow, engine seals, proper tune and/or a cooler will do way more than a couple of little fins.
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gms
post Sep 19 2015, 11:24 AM
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If you are not hung up on the O.E. look I highly recommend these Hargett Precision billet covers, they utilize the later 964 type cord seal. This ended years of leaks on my 914.
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Mark Henry
post Sep 19 2015, 12:40 PM
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QUOTE(gms @ Sep 19 2015, 01:24 PM) *

If you are not hung up on the O.E. look I highly recommend these Hargett Precision billet covers, they utilize the later 964 type cord seal. This ended years of leaks on my 914.


Nice...and only around $75 more than a new set of turbo covers.
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Maltese Falcon
post Sep 19 2015, 01:10 PM
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For easier removal of the valve cover near the trailing arm bolt, I've also removed a few studs and use some short 8x 1.25mm bolts in their place.
Marty
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Downunderman
post Sep 19 2015, 02:25 PM
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I took out all the studs and used flange bolts. Something like these: http://www.probolt-australia.com/stainless...ml#.Vf3Dy8_ovDc .They seal very well with the aluminium washer, but I had to use a little Loctite on each one to stop them falling out.
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UROpartsman
post Aug 6 2019, 12:41 PM
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If anyone has been considering this upgrade, URO just released its reproduction of the "turbo-style" 911 Lower Valve Cover 930 105 116 05. Here are the details: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=339746.
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