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> Muellers Honda V6 914 project, Now with a rear trunk that stays up with gas struts.
Andyrew
post Nov 15 2020, 12:51 AM
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We were talking about how much your J series sounds like a flat 6 when you were idling it in the parking log!!

Great progress mike! It was GREAT seeing you!
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JRust
post Nov 15 2020, 01:01 AM
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Great seeing you & your car last weekend Mike! You are making great progress with that project. Always great seeing them in progress as well as finished. Keep it up
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Steve
post Nov 16 2020, 12:07 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Nov 14 2020, 11:01 PM) *

Great seeing you & your car last weekend Mike! You are making great progress with that project. Always great seeing them in progress as well as finished. Keep it up

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Nice to meet you and see your car. Hopefully see you at the next one!!
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flat4guy
post Nov 17 2020, 09:01 PM
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Nice talking to you in the hotel parking lot Saturday - great build and I was behind you going to dinner - it scoots.
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RoadGlue
post Nov 18 2020, 04:52 PM
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Mike, it looked like you got some of the running issues sorted out from what I saw on your Instagram post. Updates?
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Mueller
post Dec 6 2020, 10:00 PM
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Randy, having some cooling issues, ordered an electric water pump to assist and crossing my fingers it helps. @roadglue


I changed the design a little for my version of the 911 hockey puck horn button.

The 914 is laser engraved from my cheap CO2 laser. The laser also cut the OD diameter....it sure stinks while it gets zapped.
..
The chrome ring is a replacement part for remanufactured hockey pucks.

360 serrations along the OD taped section. Part is far from perfect, not sure if operator error or bad programming on my part. The more I look at it I'd like to sink the center section in a bit more.

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Andyrew
post Dec 7 2020, 12:50 PM
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Hot Damn that looks good!!!!!
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Chris H.
post Dec 7 2020, 01:55 PM
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Yeah that GT horn ring looks nice Mike!

Are you SURE you need an electric water pump? The stock pump should do it I would think. Maybe post some pics of the completed setup if you can.
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RoadGlue
post Dec 7 2020, 02:13 PM
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Sorry to hear about the cooling issues. Hopefully it's something pretty straight forward.
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Mueller
post Dec 8 2020, 02:00 PM
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Here is a bad representation of my cooling system.

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Chris H.
post Dec 8 2020, 02:14 PM
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That's pretty good actually!

So just a few things to check....

1. Is the coolant overflow/fill tank at the highest point in the system?
2. Is your air bleed line at or near the highest point?
3. Is the system sealed? (is there a pressure release if you open the overflow tank when warm (be careful! Not when hot!).
3. Have you tried running it without the thermostat?
4. Are you SURE the coolant flow is as your diagram shows? I had my lines swapped for a bit.

It's usually an air pocket somewhere and once the system bleeds that out it's fine, BUT your system should technically be self bleeding.
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Chris H.
post Dec 8 2020, 02:17 PM
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Also what happens if you pinch off that "bypass hose" to stop the flow? I think that's part of the "warmup loop" so probably will not help unless it's diverting too much hot coolant back into the engine after it warms up.



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Chris H.
post Dec 8 2020, 02:29 PM
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When is it overheating BTW? Is it normal until you lean on it a bit or does it run hot right out of the gate? Are the main hoses connected to the rad up front getting hot?
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Mueller
post Dec 8 2020, 02:32 PM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Dec 8 2020, 12:14 PM) *

That's pretty good actually!

So just a few things to check....

1. Is the coolant overflow/fill tank at the highest point in the system?
2. Is your air bleed line at or near the highest point?
3. Is the system sealed? (is there a pressure release if you open the overflow tank when warm (be careful! Not when hot!).
4. Have you tried running it without the thermostat?
5. Are you SURE the coolant flow is as your diagram shows? I had my lines swapped for a bit.

6.What happens if you pinch off that bypass line?

It's usually an air pocket somewhere and once the system bleeds that out it's fine, BUT your system should technically be self bleeding.


1. pretty sure the upper small line is at highest point.
2. see above
3. yes it is sealed
4. no I have not removed the thermostat. I have the thermostat with the wax portion facing upwards.
5. I am wondering if the radiator lines should be swapped. I could have the upper and lower inlet/outlet mixed up?
6. Have not tried that.


I thought the system was good until I had it idling for about 10 minutes in the driveway and then it just puked out the coolant.
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Chris H.
post Dec 8 2020, 02:50 PM
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That's exactly what happened to mine when I had some air pockets initially. Had the same overflow tank as well. The only thing that sucks about that one is that it pukes coolant everywhere and there is no option to add a secondary overflow to catch it.

You really have to drive it a bit or at least rev it and get the RPMs up in order it push the air out if you have an air pocket. Couple of spirited laps around the block and then let it cool down and see if the coolant level goes down after a couple of hours. You can also try jacking up the front and rear to move the air around. If air is purging out it sounds like an office water cooler glugging.

Next time you fire it up make sure the hoses up front are actually getting hot when it comes up to temp. If not then your thermostat is not opening for some reason or your hose configuration needs to be revised. If that's not the issue it's most likely air in the system.

This is pretty normal BTW.
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targa72e
post Dec 8 2020, 05:07 PM
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Do you have a vent on the engine as well? Looks like hoses on engine would have to push any trapped air down (that,s not going to happen) to get to front car and radiator to vent air out of system. generally need a way to get air to highest point to get complete coolant fill. Many vehicles have the expansion tank you show at front of car at highest point in cooling system so that any air will migrate to tank.

john
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Chris914n6
post Dec 8 2020, 07:14 PM
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First obvious thing is the thermostat needs to be in the flow of the hot water. Was there something wrong with the factory location? Usually the thermostat will close off the bypass when it opens to the radiator.

Also my stock pump works just fine, I don't think you need something else.
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76-914
post Dec 8 2020, 07:32 PM
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So the thermostat is remotely mounted and not on the block?
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76-914
post Dec 8 2020, 07:32 PM
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Duplicate
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Retroracer
post Dec 8 2020, 08:47 PM
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QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Dec 8 2020, 05:14 PM) *

First obvious thing is the thermostat needs to be in the flow of the hot water.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

FWIW - and from years of dealing with dodgy water cooled British cars - the thermostat does seem to be in the wrong place. It's the controlling and sense element for redirecting the coolant AWAY from the engine once operating temp is reached. Per your (excellently drawn) diagram, its not exposed to the water temp coming out of the engine.

Seconded, the idea of trying no thermostat, to see if anything changes....

- Tony

PS. air pockets could be an issue too.
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