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> Muellers Honda V6 914 project, Put 70 miles on this engine swap, now to drop broken motor
Mueller
post Dec 8 2020, 09:04 PM
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In no particular order: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

In the stock application shown below the thermostat [5] is on the on the backside of the motor while the water pump is at the front of the motor.

Item [11] is the transfer pipe which I have a modified version which relocates the thermostat to the front of the engine.

I do not have a vent on the top of the water plumbing on the engine side, I could add one.

Looking at the diagram it now seems to me that the thermostat could be getting additional heat from the outlets of the cylinder heads since it is a common manifold housing.

The stock location for the thermostat is an ugly casting and if I ever wanted to put the rear trunk wall back in I believe it would have interference problems.




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Chris H.
post Dec 8 2020, 09:29 PM
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Ah its starting to make more sense now. I agree it'd help with air bleeding to add a small (like 5/16) bleeder somewhere at the high point by the engine. When I changed mine from where you have it on the radiator to the highest point of the coolant flow on the engine itself my system bled itself WAY better. I added a bleeder valve at the radiator port but have never needed to open it. If your overflow tank is up front you can also move that to the engine bay where it is definitely at the high point. I thought I saw it in the engine bay a few pages back. Maybe try running it without the thermostat and see what happens. Coolant should flow freely all the way through and it might take a while for the the engine to warm up. Keep us posted!
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Mueller
post Dec 8 2020, 09:35 PM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Dec 8 2020, 07:29 PM) *

Ah its starting to make more sense now. I agree it'd help with air bleeding to add a small (like 5/16) bleeder somewhere at the high point by the engine. When I changed mine from where you have it on the radiator to the highest point of the coolant flow on the engine itself my system bled itself WAY better. I added a bleeder valve at the radiator port but have never needed to open it. If your overflow tank is up front you can also move that to the engine bay where it is definitely at the high point. I thought I saw it in the engine bay a few pages back. Maybe try running it without the thermostat and see what happens. Coolant should flow freely all the way through and it might take a while for the the engine to warm up. Keep us posted!



Thanks,

I did have the tank in the engine compartment. It came down to not knowing where to plumb the top smaller hose so it seemed easier to relocate it up front near the radiator.

I will put a T in the bypass hose and then try it without a thermostat.
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Mueller
post Dec 9 2020, 06:50 PM
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After spending an hour or so online reading I figured out I screwed up with my thermostat location. Highly unlikely for it to ever open up being so far away from the motor and in the inlet side. Fix coming soon.


I did get a chance to install my homemade horn button in the car. That is a sorry looking steering wheel. A project for another day.

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RoadGlue
post Dec 9 2020, 07:42 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

The horn button looks great too!
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Retroracer
post Dec 9 2020, 08:34 PM
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RE: "I did get a chance to install my homemade horn button in the car. That is a sorry looking steering wheel"


Mike - I believe that should be referred to as "patina". I actually love the look of the wheel & horn button as is!

- Tony

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Mike Bellis
post Dec 10 2020, 09:01 PM
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You also need to drill a couple 1/8" holes in the thermostat diaphram. This allows water and air to move with the electric pump, and not deadhead when the engine is cold.

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Mike Bellis
post Dec 10 2020, 09:02 PM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Dec 9 2020, 05:50 PM) *

After spending an hour or so online reading I figured out I screwed up with my thermostat location. Highly unlikely for it to ever open up being so far away from the motor and in the inlet side. Fix coming soon.


I did get a chance to install my homemade horn button in the car. That is a sorry looking steering wheel. A project for another day.

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You need to mill a billet steering wheel now.
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Mueller
post Dec 20 2020, 01:45 PM
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Changing the cooling lines and routing again today.

1st off this cr@p in the bucket came out of the coolant lines while draining. Not sand, it easily breaks up and turns to a powder. I am thinking corrosion in the aluminum block/heads?

And I think I sunk to a new low in using donor parts for my build.
The hose adapter is an old mop handle that just happened to be the right size.

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dan10101
post Dec 20 2020, 02:40 PM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Dec 20 2020, 11:45 AM) *

Changing the cooling lines and routing again today.

1st off this cr@p in the bucket came out of the coolant lines while draining. Not sand, it easily breaks up and turns to a powder. I am thinking corrosion in the aluminum block/heads?

And I think I sunk to a new low in using donor parts for my build.
The hose adapter is an old mop handle that just happened to be the right size.

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So did you knurl the ends? That takes talent and tools..

I'm going to agree on the corrosion to the alumn.
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76-914
post Dec 20 2020, 03:12 PM
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I'd put a magnet in that crude to verify that it is all aluminum.
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Mueller
post Jan 11 2021, 08:59 PM
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Repurposed the old rear trunk shocks from our '98 Volvo S70T5. Now I have gas lifts on the 914. Made some aluminium brackets and bolted it all together. Works as if I actually put some thought into it.


That is a 6 inch diameter slitting saw, 1st time using it I think.

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djway
post Jan 12 2021, 01:58 AM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Jan 11 2021, 06:59 PM) *

Repurposed the old rear trunk shocks from our '98 Volvo S70T5. Now I have gas lifts on the 914. Made some aluminium brackets and bolted it all together. Works as if I actually put some thought into it.


That is a 6 inch diameter slitting saw, 1st time using it I think.


Those mounts are nice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)
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Mueller
post Jan 28 2021, 04:18 PM
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One step forward, two steps backwards...story of my 914 owning life...

Put the stock water manifold back on, hope to test fire this weekend to see if my overheating issues are fixed.

Made a bracket for my inexpensive radiator fan controller. Lots of good reviews so we will see. I do have a switch in the cabin to manually turn in the fans just in case.

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rick 918-S
post Jan 28 2021, 04:34 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Nice stuff.
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Andyrew
post Jan 29 2021, 07:32 AM
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Mike, I run that same temp controller for my intercooler, it works (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Just be careful, it's probably in celcius.
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Mueller
post Mar 2 2021, 11:52 AM
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Speedhut gauges installed. I used a flat sheetmetal piece from an old filing cabinet.

The gauges fit inside the stock formed gauge housing.
The smaller gauges needed the lock ring to be modified to fit in the bore.

Need to decide on a color for the sheetmetal, not sure if I want to go with black like stock.

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ValcoOscar
post Mar 2 2021, 12:09 PM
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Looks familiar...I did the same for my Speed Hut set up.

Congrats....

Hope to see you and your 914 again @ WCR2021

O

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RoadGlue
post Mar 2 2021, 12:14 PM
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cali914
post Mar 2 2021, 01:42 PM
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Mike you are doing it. Get that cooling figured out and drive it.
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