Seat removal, How to |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Seat removal, How to |
74ravenna |
Nov 15 2015, 12:07 PM
Post
#1
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
I hate to ask because it should be pretty straight forward and I've searched the site for an explanation but couldn't find one.
So, what is the process for seat removal? The bolts at the rear of the track are easy enough to access but what about the forward bolts? Or does the seat slide out of the tracks somehow? I just need to access the wiring and do a little cleaning (surface rust removal) of the floor. Thanks in advance. |
mepstein |
Nov 15 2015, 12:16 PM
Post
#2
|
914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,272 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
The seat slides off the track. I slide my finger under the track next to the sill. Press on the metal spring and slide the seat forward. Once you find the flat metal spring and push it flat to the rail, the seat will slide out of the track. Takes seconds. No tools.
|
Montreal914 |
Nov 15 2015, 12:21 PM
Post
#3
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,560 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Two ways:
What you described; 2 screws on each side in the back. The front is simply engaged in the tilt mechanism. Once you remove the 4 rear screws, the seat is pretty much free (you will see). Or, slide the seat all the way forward until it its the stop, then back it off by 1/4-1/2". You then need to slide your finger in one of the two rails (I forget which one) from the front side and lift the metal tongue (stopping device) which will allow you to pull the seat forward, completely out of the rail. Worth removing with the screws the first time which will allow you to see the stopping mechanism with the seat out of the car. You can then slide out the rails, do even more cleaning. Next time you will be able to do just the slide out. Good luck. |
74ravenna |
Nov 15 2015, 01:31 PM
Post
#4
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
Yup, came right out.
Now, there were/are disconnected wires that look like they are supposed to plug into the relays under the seat. Are all of these supposed to plug in, my guess is yes, then if so how do I figure out where the 3 leads plug in? Steve |
Dave_Darling |
Nov 15 2015, 03:24 PM
Post
#5
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Sounds like you have a 74? If so, those are for the "door ajar" buzzer, and for the Dreaded Seatbelt Interlock Relay. The relay can AND SHOULD be disarmed by splicing the two fat yellow wires that run to it together. The relay itself can be discarded or reinstalled, whatever floats your boat, at that point.
--DD |
74ravenna |
Nov 16 2015, 03:38 AM
Post
#6
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
I do have a 74! I will take your advice and disarm it.
Thanks Steve |
EdwardBlume |
Nov 16 2015, 06:40 AM
Post
#7
|
914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California |
Not a bad idea to clean the rails and add some lubricant ie grease the rails upon reinstallation. 74s are the best BTW. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
|
74ravenna |
Nov 16 2015, 08:29 AM
Post
#8
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
I am definitely cleaning and lubing the rails. They operate very difficultly.
I first need to touch up some surface rust where the steel brackets that hold the relays and seat rails mount. Basically anything above where the coating was applied by the factory. As I chip off the coating around the seams I quickly get to shiny gray steel. Should I trust that there is no need to proceed and can leave the original coating on or is it more likely that there'll be hidden rust in some areas? Thanks Steve |
orthobiz |
Nov 16 2015, 09:26 PM
Post
#9
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,754 Joined: 8-January 07 From: Cadillac, Michigan Member No.: 7,438 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
My take on it in an old thread with lots of (excruciating) detail:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=231430&hl= Paul |
74ravenna |
Dec 13 2015, 10:55 AM
Post
#10
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
Sounds like you have a 74? If so, those are for the "door ajar" buzzer, and for the Dreaded Seatbelt Interlock Relay. The relay can AND SHOULD be disarmed by splicing the two fat yellow wires that run to it together. The relay itself can be discarded or reinstalled, whatever floats your boat, at that point. --DD So do I understand this correctly? I splice the yellow/red stripe and yellow/white stripe together and tape off the rest of the wires? Thanks |
0396 |
Dec 13 2015, 11:01 AM
Post
#11
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,046 Joined: 13-October 03 From: L.A. Calif Member No.: 1,245 Region Association: Southern California |
Sounds like you have a 74? If so, those are for the "door ajar" buzzer, and for the Dreaded Seatbelt Interlock Relay. The relay can AND SHOULD be disarmed by splicing the two fat yellow wires that run to it together. The relay itself can be discarded or reinstalled, whatever floats your boat, at that point. --DD So do I understand this correctly? I splice the yellow/red stripe and yellow/white stripe together and tape off the rest of the wires? Thanks I have a 74, so (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
Dave_Darling |
Dec 13 2015, 01:54 PM
Post
#12
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Yes. Splice the thick yellow/red wires together, and cover the splice with shrink tubing, to keep water and dirt out. Unless your 914 has no leaks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
--DD |
74ravenna |
Dec 13 2015, 02:06 PM
Post
#13
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 471 Joined: 19-October 14 From: nh Member No.: 18,032 Region Association: North East States |
Yes. Splice the thick yellow/red wires together, and cover the splice with shrink tubing, to keep water and dirt out. Unless your 914 has no leaks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) --DD Ok, will do! Leaks? Its probably not "if" it leaks but how many leaks it'll have once its on the road. It hasn't been started in 32 years. It just sat it the POs cellar for that whole time so lots of dry rubber. Thanks once again for the help. Steve |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th May 2024 - 06:31 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |