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> 914-6 conversion/ rustoration, Rust repair is all done, engine is 95% now working fron oil cooler and off rotisserie..
mepstein
post May 21 2018, 02:11 PM
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I used the PMS 3.2 conversion harness to attach the engine harness to the chassis harness. I'm pretty sure the DME controls the fuel pump. Internally regulated alternator on the 3.2. Whatever that all means.
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Tdskip
post May 21 2018, 03:17 PM
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QUOTE(mb911 @ May 1 2018, 03:04 PM) *




Ben, shouldn’t the lower lip of that reinforcement metal be welded up?
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mb911
post May 21 2018, 03:47 PM
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QUOTE(Tdskip @ May 21 2018, 01:17 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ May 1 2018, 03:04 PM) *




Ben, shouldn’t the lower lip of that reinforcement metal be welded up?



Where are you talking? Can you attach a picture?
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Mark Henry
post May 21 2018, 04:30 PM
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QUOTE(mb911 @ May 21 2018, 04:05 PM) *

I am undecided on relay board.. The fuel pump relay is my only concern.. Any thoughts on that? Mark what did you do for a fuel pump relay set up?

Re the booster fan yes the bracket is coming off.. I called it the fan stand off in my post.

Ben I forget what engine are you using? carbs, FI?
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mb911
post May 21 2018, 06:39 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 21 2018, 02:30 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ May 21 2018, 04:05 PM) *

I am undecided on relay board.. The fuel pump relay is my only concern.. Any thoughts on that? Mark what did you do for a fuel pump relay set up?

Re the booster fan yes the bracket is coming off.. I called it the fan stand off in my post.

Ben I forget what engine are you using? carbs, FI?



2.4 s spec with carbs..
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Mark Henry
post May 21 2018, 07:32 PM
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Right now I'm running off of the ignition, but I just bought a early 80's VW Rabbit CIS fuel pump relay. It runs off of the tach signal, if no tach signal it will turn the pump off. Starting isn't an issue as the carbs have enough fuel in the bowls to start. Only issue would be first dry bowls start, would be easy enough to install a NO push button switch.

Relay part number 321 906 059C the one I got has a 15a fuse built right into the top of the relay.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-26-1526952781.1.jpg)

You could do a similar thing with a generic DTDP relay and run it off the oil pressure (idiot light) switch, but it won't be as fast reacting as the Rabbit switch.

There's also an inertia switch from a Ford (IIRC), but guys say it trips every time you hit a bad bump, simple to reset.


On how I made my relay board delete engine harness go to post #150 of my engine build thread. You can get the connector from member Perry Kiehl, he also makes full conversion harnesses.
Since I'm cheap I made a male connector by hacking a female connector from an old engine harness.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9913&st=140
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mb911
post May 22 2018, 09:16 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 21 2018, 05:32 PM) *

Right now I'm running off of the ignition, but I just bought a early 80's VW Rabbit CIS fuel pump relay. It runs off of the tach signal, if no tach signal it will turn the pump off. Starting isn't an issue as the carbs have enough fuel in the bowls to start. Only issue would be first dry bowls start, would be easy enough to install a NO push button switch.

Relay part number 321 906 059C the one I got has a 15a fuse built right into the top of the relay.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-26-1526952781.1.jpg)

You could do a similar thing with a generic DTDP relay and run it off the oil pressure (idiot light) switch, but it won't be as fast reacting as the Rabbit switch.

There's also an inertia switch from a Ford (IIRC), but guys say it trips every time you hit a bad bump, simple to reset.


On how I made my relay board delete engine harness go to post #150 of my engine build thread. You can get the connector from member Perry Kiel, he also makes full conversion harnesses.
Since I'm cheap I made a male connector by hacking a female connector from an old engine harness.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9913&st=140



I did the same thing as you on my last conversion. Relay for sure on this one.. It just seems safer.

I will probably delete the board as suggested and either make my own harness or buy one from perry..

Gotta figure the regulator wiring out as well then..
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Tdskip
post May 22 2018, 09:35 AM
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QUOTE(mb911 @ May 21 2018, 04:47 PM) *



Where are you talking? Can you attach a picture?


It looks like sealer is on that area now, rear suspension on the driver side the bottom of the chassis reinforcement plate.
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mb911
post May 22 2018, 09:42 AM
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QUOTE(Tdskip @ May 22 2018, 07:35 AM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ May 21 2018, 04:47 PM) *



Where are you talking? Can you attach a picture?


It looks like sealer is on that area now, rear suspension on the driver side the bottom of the chassis reinforcement plate.



Oh got you. I welded that up prior to sealer.. Just didn't take a picture of that.
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mb911
post Jun 9 2018, 06:49 AM
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Update

Fuel pump arrived, carb parts and distributor coming from supertec, worked on aligning sprockets on the engine, then went to time cams and discovered that the cam sprockets were a little worn so ordered new ones,

No real work on chassis as want to wrap up the engine so I can run it for some testing of products.

Attached Image
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mb911
post Jun 9 2018, 06:50 AM
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Test run stand in the making.. Attached Image
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mb911
post Jun 14 2018, 05:54 AM
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Cams are timed, put new sprockets on though felt the ones I had were good. It just seemed the thing to do. Then had my buddy powdercoat my sons phone dials and then I wet painted to rsr look on one of my 15x8 fuchs. This was done with water masking..Attached Image Attached Image
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Travis Neff
post Jun 14 2018, 03:29 PM
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I don't normally like the all black wheels, but that matte finish with the bare aluminum center cap sure looks good!
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mb911
post Jun 14 2018, 04:01 PM
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QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jun 14 2018, 01:29 PM) *

I don't normally like the all black wheels, but that matte finish with the bare aluminum center cap sure looks good!



I thought about doing that as well..

The good news its all paint so doesn't matter cost much to change things.
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mb911
post Jun 16 2018, 06:18 AM
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Here is 1 front strut assembled and the other 3 wheels with the water mask method. Attached Image
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mb911
post Jun 16 2018, 06:18 AM
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Attached Image
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Beach914
post Jun 16 2018, 08:44 AM
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Ben, what paints did you use to achieve that look?
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914forme
post Jun 16 2018, 09:19 AM
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QUOTE(mb911 @ May 22 2018, 11:16 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 21 2018, 05:32 PM) *

Right now I'm running off of the ignition, but I just bought a early 80's VW Rabbit CIS fuel pump relay. It runs off of the tach signal, if no tach signal it will turn the pump off. Starting isn't an issue as the carbs have enough fuel in the bowls to start. Only issue would be first dry bowls start, would be easy enough to install a NO push button switch.

Relay part number 321 906 059C the one I got has a 15a fuse built right into the top of the relay.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-26-1526952781.1.jpg)

You could do a similar thing with a generic DTDP relay and run it off the oil pressure (idiot light) switch, but it won't be as fast reacting as the Rabbit switch.

There's also an inertia switch from a Ford (IIRC), but guys say it trips every time you hit a bad bump, simple to reset.


On how I made my relay board delete engine harness go to post #150 of my engine build thread. You can get the connector from member Perry Kiel, he also makes full conversion harnesses.
Since I'm cheap I made a male connector by hacking a female connector from an old engine harness.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9913&st=140



I did the same thing as you on my last conversion. Relay for sure on this one.. It just seems safer.

I will probably delete the board as suggested and either make my own harness or buy one from perry..

Gotta figure the regulator wiring out as well then..


Don't forget some of the CIS relays also have a built in rev limit function. Learned that the hard way going down the back straight of Mid-Ohio. Still below the red-line first time out. and I would drop power (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) traced it back to the relays I was using. In my setup one powered the coil one powered the fuel pump.

I grabbed the relays from a my hoard of VW CIS parts from my previous Scirocco collection. Yes Ben I am back to using the term Hoard. When in Rome.
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mb911
post Jun 16 2018, 10:07 AM
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QUOTE(Beach914 @ Jun 16 2018, 06:44 AM) *

Ben, what paints did you use to achieve that look?



Matte black powdercoated then Cerakote silver mag ceramic paint.. Turned out pretty nice..
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mb911
post Jun 16 2018, 10:07 AM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Jun 16 2018, 07:19 AM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ May 22 2018, 11:16 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 21 2018, 05:32 PM) *

Right now I'm running off of the ignition, but I just bought a early 80's VW Rabbit CIS fuel pump relay. It runs off of the tach signal, if no tach signal it will turn the pump off. Starting isn't an issue as the carbs have enough fuel in the bowls to start. Only issue would be first dry bowls start, would be easy enough to install a NO push button switch.

Relay part number 321 906 059C the one I got has a 15a fuse built right into the top of the relay.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-26-1526952781.1.jpg)

You could do a similar thing with a generic DTDP relay and run it off the oil pressure (idiot light) switch, but it won't be as fast reacting as the Rabbit switch.

There's also an inertia switch from a Ford (IIRC), but guys say it trips every time you hit a bad bump, simple to reset.


On how I made my relay board delete engine harness go to post #150 of my engine build thread. You can get the connector from member Perry Kiel, he also makes full conversion harnesses.
Since I'm cheap I made a male connector by hacking a female connector from an old engine harness.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9913&st=140



I did the same thing as you on my last conversion. Relay for sure on this one.. It just seems safer.

I will probably delete the board as suggested and either make my own harness or buy one from perry..

Gotta figure the regulator wiring out as well then..


Don't forget some of the CIS relays also have a built in rev limit function. Learned that the hard way going down the back straight of Mid-Ohio. Still below the red-line first time out. and I would drop power (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) traced it back to the relays I was using. In my setup one powered the coil one powered the fuel pump.

I grabbed the relays from a my hoard of VW CIS parts from my previous Scirocco collection. Yes Ben I am back to using the term Hoard. When in Rome.



Lol I get that..

Also gotta get you dad's info. He said it is clear glass..
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