 Tie-rod end question |
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| SKL1 |
 Nov 19 2015, 09:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member  Group: Members Posts: 1,602 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest 
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Was bleeding brakes today and tightening connections on the front sway bars and checked tightness of nuts on tie rod ends.
Pass side nice and tight. On driver's side the nut and shaft would spin rather easily but did turn together. Everything seems tight and no noticeable slop when driving. Also noted no way to put in cotter pins- couldn't find any holes. Can't figure out why one side is tight and other side turns?? Sorry for "dumb" question!! Ball joints are new on both sides... Wondered about new tie rod ends from Pelican- figured I'll need the tool to push out the old ones, right?? |
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Replies(1 - 8)
| dangrouche |
Nov 19 2015, 11:00 PM
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#2
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dangrouche Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 1-May 04 From: San Francisco Bay Area Member No.: 2,012 Region Association: None |
The tie rod ends I have removed have always needed a ball joint separator or pickle fork. The Lemforder OEM tie rod ends used cotter pins. the non-OEM cheaper ones (made in Asia) use a Nyloc nut. The one that that you have that is rotating may either be not snugged up enough or there may have been a bit of grease in the hole when it was installed and that accounts for the ability for it to rotate. but if you say there is no slop, I would double check that you have no play whatsoever. could be that tie rod end was not up to spec. If you needed a wrench to rotate that nut, then I would not worry about it. If I can turn the nut with my hand, then I would replace that tie rod end. thinking about it some more, that steering arm may have an enlarged bore which accounts for you ability to rotate that tie rod end.
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| Ductech |
Nov 20 2015, 08:59 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 356 Joined: 16-July 10 From: AridZona Member No.: 11,949 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I've found that the cheapies do start rotating once you hit the nylock then you have to compress them into the arm to put some resistance against it to finish tightening. Channel locks!
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| Spoke |
Nov 20 2015, 03:24 PM
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#4
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,986 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None
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You should tighten that tie rod bolt as soon as possible. I wouldn't drive on it till it's tightened.
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| 914Sixer |
Nov 20 2015, 08:56 PM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,892 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region
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Get rid of the nyloc and get a castle nut original with cotter pin. Old school thinking I know but why risk it!
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| SKL1 |
Nov 20 2015, 08:59 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,602 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest
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Looks like another order to Pelican- got 'em on speed dial!!
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| draganc |
Nov 20 2015, 09:46 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 725 Joined: 2-November 09 From: central new jersey Member No.: 11,000 Region Association: North East States |
Fyi, I just bought a brand new Lemforder turbo tie rod and it had a nylon nut, not the castle nut.
Bought it from a legit source. |
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| EdwardBlume |
Nov 21 2015, 06:34 AM
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#8
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California
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QUOTE(draganc @ Nov 20 2015, 07:46 PM)  Fyi, I just bought a brand new Lemforder turbo tie rod and it had a nylon nut, not the castle nut. Bought it from a legit source. Progress? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) |
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| injunmort |
Nov 21 2015, 07:19 AM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,024 Joined: 12-April 10 From: sugarloaf ny Member No.: 11,604 Region Association: North East States |
if the taper is seated correctly. nylock is fine. the nylock nuts are one use only. clean the taper well, sprinkle a little talc in the taper and set the weight of the car on the joint to set the taper and tighten.
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