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| Cairo94507 |
Nov 28 2015, 08:08 AM
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#21
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Michael ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,490 Joined: 1-November 08 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 9,712 Region Association: Northern California
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That just does not make sense. Aluminum radiators have been the performance solution for decades and I have never heard of them springing leaks routinely. What is going on to cause these units to fail? I do not like the bars leak fix either.
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| rmdinmd |
Nov 28 2015, 08:12 AM
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#22
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 489 Joined: 30-October 13 From: Greeneville,Tn Member No.: 16,585 Region Association: South East States
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I have never known bars leak to work for any period of time. Years ago if it was just one tube the Radiator shops would close off the leaking tube.
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| Cracker |
Nov 28 2015, 08:51 AM
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#23
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,148 Joined: 2-February 10 From: Atlanta (area) Member No.: 11,316 Region Association: South East States
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Jim - I attached a little message on your thread earlier in the alignment post - don't know if you saw it. Anyhow, why don't you consider a steel radiator? I highly doubt weight is important with your application and they are used in OEM ALL the time. I'm using a steel unit and I have a problem OVER cooling. Just another option (that is stronger) and less leak prone. All the best.
Tony |
| jimkelly |
Nov 28 2015, 08:55 AM
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#24
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I did miss that post. someone mentioned copper core. for $140, i think i'll give aluminum one more try. but will keep steel in mind. thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Jim - I attached a little message on your thread earlier in the alignment post - don't know if you saw it. Anyhow, why don't you consider a steel radiator? I highly doubt weight is important with your application and they are used in OEM ALL the time. I'm using a steel unit and I have a problem OVER cooling. Just another option (that is stronger) and less leak prone. All the best. Tony |
| crash914 |
Nov 28 2015, 09:46 AM
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#25
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its a mystery to me ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,830 Joined: 17-March 03 From: Marriottsville, MD Member No.: 434 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
be sure to use the correct coolant for aluminum.
You might have to use the "Extended life" coolant. Just read the label carefully....usually the color is different. I like BMW coolant, its blue. |
| jimkelly |
Nov 28 2015, 10:12 AM
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#26
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
few more pics of the shrouding.
Attached image(s)
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| dlkawashima |
Nov 28 2015, 01:47 PM
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#27
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,749 Joined: 1-October 10 From: San Jose Member No.: 12,234 Region Association: Northern California |
Back in my day Renegade radiators were made by Ron Davis. Maybe they will warranty their work as they have a rep to keep. My Renegade radiator also failed. Contacted Ron Davis and they said they will not warranty or even touch a radiator installed with the Renegade Hybrids kit. They said the mounting method is a flawed design that does a poor job of isolating the radiator from the stresses introduced by the relatively flexible nose of the 914. Renegade now gets their radiators from CBR Performance. I *think* they're custom made for Renegade, but the model that's closest in size is the CBR1003, about 31”X14”X3”. They're not cheap. The 2000-2005 Celica radiator is approximately the same size and quite a bit cheaper. You can find them all day long on ebay for less than $50 (with plastic water tank). You can even find all aluminum ones for under $100, including shipping. |
| jimkelly |
Nov 28 2015, 02:55 PM
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#28
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I bought this one today. thanks.
Attached image(s)
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| ThePaintedMan |
Nov 28 2015, 03:10 PM
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#29
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States
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Chads74 has a Renegrade radiator too, and he's had it repaired at least twice. Renegade will NOT warranty them, despite the fact that the radiators are $800+. That's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) in my opinion - knowing that and how many people are having problems with them tells me they don't value people's business. Right up there with AA.
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| Chris H. |
Nov 28 2015, 04:40 PM
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#30
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,068 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest
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Dang that Celica radiator is really becoming the standard! I've been using it for a couple of years myself. BIGKAT pointed it out (shocker). Fits great. Cools well.
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| Mike Bellis |
Nov 28 2015, 08:17 PM
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#31
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Resident Electrician ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,347 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None
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Dang that Celica radiator is really becoming the standard! I've been using it for a couple of years myself. BIGKAT pointed it out (shocker). Fits great. Cools well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Works great! |
| jimkelly |
Nov 29 2015, 08:14 AM
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#32
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
ray (aka: A&P Mech) provided me these additional pics of his celica radiator install. many thanks to ray for sharing these with us (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
and here is his link to the grommets he used. I think the tabs at the top of the radiator have a different OD then the bottom tabs. I will confirm. I plan to make vibration cushions of similar dimension with smooth-on product. Attached image(s)
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| A&P Mech |
Nov 29 2015, 10:21 AM
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#33
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 10-September 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,371 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Jim, you are correct. The top and bottom isolation mount posts are different sizes. The post for the lower mount is larger than the top. All the pictures of the radiator that I found show the radiator sitting up side down from the way the that the Toyota OEM lower vibration mounts would dictate. I mounted mine based on that.
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| 76-914 |
Nov 29 2015, 10:56 AM
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#34
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 13,815 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California
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Jim, once your radiator is installed and topped off with fluids take your VOM and place your + lead in the liquid and the - lead to ground. Your checking for stray voltage which will amplify the electrolysis. Do the check with the key on and off. Let us know what you find. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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| jimkelly |
Nov 29 2015, 12:34 PM
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#35
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
i'm thinking you are serious? just never heard anyone mention this before but then again, most of us to not have a radiator in our cars. you are wondering is stray voltage could be exacerbating a corrosion issue in my coolant system. interesting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Jim, once your radiator is installed and topped off with fluids take your VOM and place your + lead in the liquid and the - lead to ground. Your checking for stray voltage which will amplify the electrolysis. Do the check with the key on and off. Let us know what you find. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
| 76-914 |
Nov 29 2015, 12:51 PM
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#36
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 13,815 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California
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Absotootely. The reason I wanted to see the voltage with key on/off is to isolate and ground any devices dumping voltage into the coolant. The transmission even does it to some extent. You, and I repeat, you cannot have too many grounds. In severe instances you can use an anode fitting to control it. Your Al radiator and CI block are worlds apart on the Galvanic chart. This will get you up to date............ http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
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| dakotaewing |
Nov 29 2015, 08:10 PM
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#37
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,163 Joined: 8-July 03 From: DeSoto, Tx Member No.: 897 Region Association: Southwest Region
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ray (aka: A&P Mech) provided me these additional pics of his celica radiator install. many thanks to ray for sharing these with us (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) and here is his link to the grommets he used. I think the tabs at the top of the radiator have a different OD then the bottom tabs. I will confirm. I plan to make vibration cushions of similar dimension with smooth-on product. Jim or Ray, can you provide the link for the grommets please? Also, Ray do you have any more detail images of your mounting frame, especially where the mount bolts into the body at the base, and the mounts at the top connecting to the radiator? Thanks so much for what you have already provided ! Thanks! Thom |
| A&P Mech |
Nov 29 2015, 09:02 PM
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#38
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 10-September 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,371 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
ray (aka: A&P Mech) provided me these additional pics of his celica radiator install. many thanks to ray for sharing these with us (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) and here is his link to the grommets he used. I think the tabs at the top of the radiator have a different OD then the bottom tabs. I will confirm. I plan to make vibration cushions of similar dimension with smooth-on product. Jim or Ray, can you provide the link for the grommets please? Also, Ray do you have any more detail images of your mounting frame, especially where the mount bolts into the body at the base, and the mounts at the top connecting to the radiator? Thanks so much for what you have already provided ! Thanks! Thom The link for the lower vibration mounts is: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-16535...adiator+Support ![]() ![]() ![]() There are a few more pictures in my build thread. |
| dakotaewing |
Nov 29 2015, 10:07 PM
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#39
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,163 Joined: 8-July 03 From: DeSoto, Tx Member No.: 897 Region Association: Southwest Region
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Thanks Ray! What were you using for the uppers?
I looked at the images for your thread, but didn't see a reference. Looks like a aluminum mount with the rubber bushing ? Thanks again for the additional images ! |
| A&P Mech |
Nov 29 2015, 10:22 PM
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#40
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 10-September 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,371 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
You are correct. I made aluminum mount and found a thick walled rubber gommet at the local hardware store that fit the radiator.
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