Best Paint Stripping Method?, ::: In the Garage ::: Options

[CptTripps]

I've searched and can only find 'Media Blasting Vs. Acid Dip' threads, so I'm hoping to get some feedback on 'Garage Stripping' methods. For those of us taking the car down to bare metal, and re-painting it in the garage/driveway/basement (long story) is there a 'best way' to get it all off before filler/primer?

I used one of those spongy wheel things attached to a drill last night on the pass-front fender and it took about an hour. I CAN'T think of doing the entire car like that. I'm not looking to punk-out on the time thing, but It'd take me a few weeks of evenings to do it with the wheel thingy.

Should I go get a bunch of 60-Grit sand disks and go at it on the grinder at a low speed? That seemed awefull abrasive.

Is chemical stripping better? I tried some Jasco that I had left over from another job and it curtled the re-spray off pretty quick, but didn't seem to phase the second coat.

For the trunks, I'm just going to rough it up and prime/paint. But the rest of the body needs to come down to the shiney stuff.

Ideas/Suggestions/Stories of Peril and Dispair?

[rick 918-S]

Small propane torch and a scraper, heat gun and a scraper. Heat the finish until it bubbles and scrape.. Pretty easy and cheap.

You can use a wire brush by hand to get the recessed area's.

[xsboost90]

there is another thread on this but mar hyde tal strip 2 is the way to go, just make sure you shake it up good and have plenty of ventilation or youll pass out.

i would think a torch would warp the panels if it got too hot...

[914GT]

Doug, here is a good stripping method.

[rick 918-S]

I owned a shop for 20 years. I had my employees strip using the torch method. I taught my son how to do it when he was 13 years old. The trick is to keep the torch away for the surface and keep it moving. We stripped the front shroud on an a 1954 Austin Healey 100-4. It's aluminum. Can't sand the paint off of aluminum because you can't tell when you hit the metal.

I don't like paint stripper. If you don't get it cleaned out from the nooks and crannies it can re-activate during paint. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)
It also leaves a residue. If you don't properly nuteralize it the whole job can be compermized.

[scotty b]

To strip in the garage,I would use a chemical stripper if going to bare metal. I'm right now sanding my dads car with a D.A> and 60 grit,(40 grit will cut a lot faster if going bare) but I'm not going all the way down since it won't be a 100% car. Normally I will sandblast which if done CORRECTLY won't damage the car. Too many people use to high a pressure and/or aim directly at the panel. Sandblasting is very messy and expensive for the equipment, but also does a great job. Sanding in my opinion is the right way inside if you can. Chemical has a waiting period and as mentioned prviously has some very hazardous fumes.

[Flat VW]

There was a thread here recently about "soda blasting". (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif) It sure looked effective.


John

[CptTripps]

So I'm gathering that it's all personal preference. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) I kinda figured that's what I'd get out of this.

I think I'm going to use a combination. I'll use samding in the areas I can, and chemical in the areas I can't sand. I read somewhere that milk will neutralize the acid better than water, then you can go back with water to get rid of the milk smell....who knows. I'm about ready to light a match and walk from this thing...going it alone sucks some times.

Thanks for the feedback...keep the opinions coming!

[scotty b]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) You could always hose in down with salt water and let it sit outside for a couple of years. That would get the paint off too (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

[jim912928]

a resto body shop that did mine had the car totally stripped in 2 days. Haul it down to a shop, spend two days of labor costs and the stripping material and let someone else doit. Worked for me!

[rezron]

I've done alot of complete strips and repaints in my past
bodyshop career. Chem stripper works alright, but is messy and strong fumes! It also takes alot of clean up!
I've had good luck with 6" 80grit on a DA sander. Currently in my own garage I use a Porter Cable 6"
electric DA sander hooked up to a PC triggered vacuum-
it really keeps the dust and mess to a minimum!

Good luck with your project!

rezron

[xsboost90]

ok, i see the torch method now...hm. I have used chem stripper quite a few times on different cars like my old 69 firebird. I used it to cut through the heavy paintjobs that were on it down to primer, then i da'ed the rest of that off after it all dried and wiped it down well w/ prep solvent. Never had a problem. Seems like its more money but price out a couple rolls of sandpaper and the time it takes to sand, if your going to bare metal w/o blasting it, i would chem strip then sand...works ok.

[Katmanken]

I like air powered dual action sanders.

Only car it wouldn't work on was my teener.

Seems the PO coated it in 3/16- 1/4 inch of layers of Saturn Yellow lacquer.paint. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)


The paint was so thick it cracked like the bottom of a dried up river bed. Rust stains were oozing from the cracks.
Stripper wouldn't touch it, the DA would melt the paint onto the sanding disk in about 15 seconds (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif)

Things I do for a car with a good hell hole and longs. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

Ended up using a paint scraper and a putty knife between the layers and layers of paint, followed by the DA and a bazillion sanding disks.

Now with the factory paint, a DA is the way to go.

Not keen on a torch. Heating the metal can cause it to begin to oxidize and rust. Hafta treat the back side of a weld ya know. Some people have success with it, but it's not my choice on a car with metal that will oxidize while you look at it.

Ken

[CptTripps]

Here's what I did....

7" 50-grit on a DA sander
5" 80-grit on an orbital sander
5" 3M Spongy thing

Took it all down with the 7" sander. Just enough to take the paint off.

Then I went in with the orbital and cleaned up the left-over primer.

Take the Spongy thing, and hit the nooks and cranies that the sanders can't get.

I spent about 2.5hrs and the the entire passenger side of the car.

My wife took part of the camera to Chicago for the weekend, so I'll upload pics tomorrow.

[CptTripps]

Found the part to upload pics!

Here's a shot of a half-naked teen...from the rear. (I crack myself up)

(IMG:http://www.hardman.org/pix/914_progress/914_progress-Images/90.jpg)

[CptTripps]

And from up front. The garage is getting cramped with stuff...I need to start putting things back together at some point...eh?

(IMG:http://www.hardman.org/pix/914_progress/914_progress-Images/89.jpg)

[type11969]

I use a wire cup brush on a grinder, takes paint and goop off real quick. Also a great workout for your forearms, especially if you use one of the big cup brushes. Once they get spinning, they don't want to slow down. Did the area under my removed pass side fender in about a half hour.

[balljoint]

QUOTE (type11969 @ Mar 14 2005, 08:55 AM)

I use a wire cup brush on a grinder, takes paint and goop off real quick. Also a great workout for your forearms, especially if you use one of the big cup brushes. Once they get spinning, they don't want to slow down. Did the area under my removed pass side fender in about a half hour.

The wire cup brush on the grinder is awesome. I am very interested in trying that heat gun approach though as the wire brushes do wear down and they are not cheap. One thing that I found with the wire brushes was that when they lose wires out of the brush , they can hit you and stick in you. Make sure you wear protective clothing/facemask etc.

[CptTripps]

QUOTE (balljoint @ Mar 14 2005, 10:24 AM)

QUOTE (type11969 @ Mar 14 2005, 08:55 AM) I use a wire cup brush on a grinder, takes paint and goop off real quick. Also a great workout for your forearms, especially if you use one of the big cup brushes. Once they get spinning, they don't want to slow down. Did the area under my removed pass side fender in about a half hour. The wire cup brush on the grinder is awesome. I am very interested in trying that heat gun approach though as the wire brushes do wear down and they are not cheap. One thing that I found with the wire brushes was that when they lose wires out of the brush , they can hit you and stick in you. Make sure you wear protective clothing/facemask etc.

I got back in the house one night, and my arm looked like I was doing Accu-puncture. Kinda funny...

I tried the heat/scrape thing and maybe I'm not doing it right. All I ended up with was yellow muck on fire at my feet, and then it dried to stickey yellow muck on the car that I still had to sand off.

[fiid]

I apologise for airing this idea in public.....

but has anyone thought about using brake fluid for this purpose. I thought it was really good at removing paint....??

Just a thought.