Best Paint Stripping Method?, ::: In the Garage ::: Options

[type11969]

I've found that the wire cup brushes that have groups of wire braided together last much longer and don't throw wires as bad, the cup brushes that have all the wires seperate don't work as well, don't last as long, and throw wires like crazy.

Plus I ended up with a wire buried under my skin by my ankle .5" deep after using a loose wire cup brush. Ouch.

[Gint]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) BTDT, Ouch!

I don't buy cheap Harbor Freight quality wire wheels and cup brushes anymore. You get what you pay for.

[Gint]

I should have posted this before. It's in my "rusto" thread.

There is nothing, and I mean NOTHING, that removes paint better than these things. And without tearing up the metal or overheating and warping the panels. Eastwood sells a 6" version also which would work so quickly, you won't believe it.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/members/ginter/MVC-238F.JPG)

This post has been edited by Gint: Mar 14 2005, 12:50 PM

[scotty b]

QUOTE (type11969 @ Mar 14 2005, 05:55 AM)

I use a wire cup brush on a grinder, takes paint and goop off real quick. Also a great workout for your forearms, especially if you use one of the big cup brushes. Once they get spinning, they don't want to slow down. Did the area under my removed pass side fender in about a half hour.

the cup brushes also are really good at heating up the panel and warping it! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) You may not think you have done it but you probably have.Sand it!!

[Gint]

I edited my post above yours Scott. The 3M pads don't warp panels either.

I'm tellin ya, NOTHING works better. You can spend 5 times longer sanding.

[scotty b]

QUOTE (Gint @ Mar 14 2005, 10:51 AM)

I edited my post above yours Scott. The 3M pads don't warp panels either. I'm tellin ya, NOTHING works better. You can spend 5 times longer sanding.

I have used those on small areas and like them. I usually sandblast, but on a car like the one I'm doing now I sand, simply to start smoothing as I strip. This car isn't intended to be a 100% car but just a really nice weekend blaster for my folks.(Sanding down to the original paint and sealing.) If they want one to keep, I have another to do as a NICE car, (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) A REAL nice car. If they don't want it ...I need to find a girlfriend/wife that does, so it can stay within my reach (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

[TravisNeff]

Hey Gint, did you hook those 3m pads on a grinder or drill? I have not found an arbor for an angle grinder. Drill sucks, works good with the tiny rol-lock pads in tight spaces.

[CptTripps]

Where can I buy a bunch of those? Looks like Gint is getting them in bulk.

[IronHillRestorations]

Doug, you are going to have fun sanding down all that bare metal so you don't have sanding scratches that come back.

We tape the seams, door gaps, etc with 1/2" masking tape, and use Aircraft Stripper. You don't have to worry about getting the panel too hot, or grinding off metal, or getting a bunch of dust everywhere. You do want to use a cartridge type respirator though.

The most important thing about using chemical stripper is to brush it on with one swipe, and don't touch it. That stuff stratifies immediately and if you brush over it, it doesn't work as well. Another thing that helps is to cover the area you've brushed with plastic film. It help force the solvents down into the paint. Brush it on and walk away for awhile, or work on another area, don't try to "help" the stripper work. The other nice thing about the stripper is it leaves a phospate coating, so you've got a little protection. We also put cardboard under the car to catch the sludge.

Unless you've got experience with torching paint off a 914, I wouldn't do that. It sounds like a great way to warp panels. But what do I know?

I wouldn't use any abrasive sanding discs beyond what Gint shows. We also use the 3M Bristle discs which come in four different grades and a few different sizes. They take the paint off but don't damage the parent metal. Any abrasive disc can cause heat warping though.

40 or 80 grit is fine on a 50's vintage Detriot body. There isn't that much metal in a 914. Unless you've got some major experience you can really do some damage with that. Besides if you grind it with 80 grit, then you've got 80 grit scratches to sand. I don't car what any body man says how great the new primer-fillers are. If you have 80 grit scratches before you paint it, eventually the filler and primer is going to shrink into those scratches, and you'll see them in the finish paint. It might take a year or two for all the solvents to bake out of the paint, but those scratches will come back to haunt you.

Using chemical strippers does provide some health and ecological challenges, but nothing I know leaves the panel as pristine conditon, and doesn't compromise the integrity.

[CptTripps]

QUOTE

But what do I know?

LOTS more than me!

I found a place locally that has the disks. I'm going to go get a few today and see how that goes. I've got an external garage that's NOT heated, and has no windows. So the chemical striping methods are tough for me to do...especially when I 'm using a propane heater, and it's 10degrees outside! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/icon8.gif)

The torch method just plain didn't work for me. I scrapped that idea about 5min into it.

I'm going to go over the car with the scotch-brite pads again before I prime. I've got a bit of body-work to do first as well.

I bought ALL KINDS of PPG primer, paint, clear, hardeners, mixers, puttys, pads and anything else they said I need to 'do the job right'. We'll see if it was all worth it in a few weeks when I get ready for paint!

[TravisNeff]

You can get those 3m disks from an auto paint supply house.

I read somewhere that if you cut down to metal with anything more aggressive than 220, you risk having your primer and paint shink (as there is a lot more surface area with the gouges). Dunno if that is some persons impression or real world knowledge.

[CptTripps]

I've read a LOT of different opinions on the matter. The guy at the paint store told me the primer I'm bought will fill up anything up to about 80-grit. I'm sanding it all down with 200 when I'm done with the filler. I'm roughing those areas with 50-80 before bondo. Then the whole car with 120, then 220. Then priming, then 500 then paint, wet-sand again, then paint.

I only bought a single-stage paint for this one. I don't have the skill for a 2-stage job at this point. I'm doing more for this car than any 2 owners would have done, so I don't feel too bad. If I end up re-painting in 5yrs, so be it.

[Always Looking]

Great string of information. This got me thinking....I'm thinking of a low budget paint job that'll look good. I have NO experience in this area. As far as the prep work, how far do I have to take the paint down? I just figured it would be easiest to take it down to bare metal and start fresh - right? or too much work for an average paintjob? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

[Gint]

Those 3M disks leave a fairly fine finish as compared to how aggresive they *look*. Much less aggressive than 80 grit. It will suprise you.

You want to run them at a slow speed like on a slow electric grinder or sander/polisher. Less than 3K rpm.

QUOTE (Travis Neff Posted on Mar 14 2005 @ 01:29 PM)

You can get those 3m disks from an auto paint supply house.

Yup. That's where I get 'em. The next time (if there is a next time) I'll order some 6" units from Eastwood. I could not find 6" disks any where else.

[IronHillRestorations]

QUOTE (CptTripps @ Mar 14 2005, 12:46 PM)

I've read a LOT of different opinions on the matter. The guy at the paint store told me the primer I'm bought will fill up anything up to about 80-grit. I'm sanding it all down with 200 when I'm done with the filler. I'm roughing those areas with 50-80 before bondo. Then the whole car with 120, then 220. Then priming, then 500 then paint, wet-sand again, then paint.

The guy that sells the paints, and even the tech for the paint company will tell you "our primer-filler will fill 80 grit scratches". I promise you these guys won't come over 18 months from now, strip your car down, and help you sand those 80 grit scratches out, reprimer the car, repaint the car, and pay for all those expensive paints. You've got to smooth them to a finer grit, or you are going to regret it later.

The only thing I'll ever grind (on a car that is) is where filler is going to be applied, and if possible I prefer to sandblast those areas. Just my preference.

If you can feel it with your fingernail, it's going to show up later. Unless you are going to cover it with plastic.

[scotty b]

I NEVER would try to fill 80 grit with primer. I use U-Tech for my under coats and there 2K primer surfacer does great on scratch filling (150 grit) but 80 grit is way to much to fill. The only time I put any paint directly over heavy scratches is a etch primer,then filler then epoxy then sealer. You'll get a dozen diff. opinions on the correct time to prime,fill etc. so it is just preference. I prefer a coat of etch before any mudding. I would also recommend going to 400 before priming unless you are using a high build. Sanding scratches have a way of showing through several coats of paint. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

[CptTripps]

QUOTE (9146986 @ Mar 14 2005, 06:42 PM)

QUOTE (CptTripps @ Mar 14 2005, 12:46 PM) I've read a LOT of different opinions on the matter. The guy at the paint store told me the primer I'm bought will fill up anything up to about 80-grit. I'm sanding it all down with 200 when I'm done with the filler. I'm roughing those areas with 50-80 before bondo. Then the whole car with 120, then 220. Then priming, then 500 then paint, wet-sand again, then paint. The guy that sells the paints, and even the tech for the paint company will tell you "our primer-filler will fill 80 grit scratches". I promise you these guys won't come over 18 months from now, strip your car down, and help you sand those 80 grit scratches out, reprimer the car, repaint the car, and pay for all those expensive paints. You've got to smooth them to a finer grit, or you are going to regret it later. The only thing I'll ever grind (on a car that is) is where filler is going to be applied, and if possible I prefer to sandblast those areas. Just my preference. If you can feel it with your fingernail, it's going to show up later. Unless you are going to cover it with plastic.

I have *NO* intention of leaving it at 80-grit. I was just quoting the sales guy.

I'm leaving it at 50-80 where I'm filling with bondo, but that's just to help it adhere. (As reccomended by a link that was given in an earlier post.) The rest will go to 220.

I bought 8 of those 3m disks at the local shop. I got the ones on the 'Rolock' spindle. That's all they had. They are 4.5" disks. I'll let you all know how they work out tomorrow when I dig into it a little further. I'm starting the drivers-side in the afternoon. I know how long it took for the pass-side, this'll be a good comparison.

On another note...How have people in the past taken off the VIN sticker? Or do they just leave it on, and paint around it? (masked of course)

I agree...this is turning into a good thread.

[Gint]

QUOTE

On another note...How have people in the past taken off the VIN sticker? Or do they just leave it on, and paint around it? (masked of course)

I had it put into a big vat of acid with the rest of the tub. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) But that's just me... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

[xsboost90]

the sticker in the door jamb went bye bye. Ive tried to save them before, just look nasty. Filling 80grit w/ high fill euro primer is no problem, Filling more than that can be a problem after it shrinks down slightly, but thats over like 40 grit scratches. Always a good idea to scuff it up w/ some 180 though first. Etch prime before each fill is alittle much i would think unless you let it sit awhile between grinding and filling.

[IronHillRestorations]

If you aren't dipping the car, and the VIN sticker in the doorjamb is OK, mask it off and be careful around it.

It's been posted that you can get replacement doorjamb VIN stickers from Porsche. IIRC, it takes about six to eight weeks and is like $60 or something like that.