Control Arm Bushing Replacement, Degree of difficulty Options

[jack20]

I need to replace the front rubber bushings and am planning to use the Elephant Racing bushings and install tools. I have not been able to find a video or other info regarding removal of the control arms. I am not near my car so I can't crawl under right now.
Will I need to remove the hubs, brakes or anything else to remove the control arms?
Thanks,
Jack

[stugray]

I have done this twice recently, once at the track so it is not too bad.

loosen both front wheels (lugs)
Block rear and jack up front and support with jackstands on/near front body donuts, remove wheels.
Remove steering rack cover (2X large rear bolts, 2X front small (8mm?))
Jack up on spindle to take the load off of the balljoint.
Remove balljoint retention bolts (early vs late differ - one has a wedge bolt) one on each side.
See if you can get the balljoint to pull out of the strut (this will be the first challenge).

The first time I did this I had to pull the top hats loose from the shock tower mounts (will ruin your alignment , so make carefully first).
Then I was able to compress the strut and had more range of motion to wrestle the strut off the ball joint.
Once the strut comes loose, support it up out of the way, don't let any weight pull on the brake flex line.

Lower the jack and the control arm will just pivot down away from the car.
Mark the allen screws that are at the back of each control arm (tis sets your front ride height), then remove them completely from the rear torsion bar holder, then the rear holder will slide right out the back.
Loosen the front bolts that hold the control arm front carrier in, lower it and the torsion bar should be able to come out the back now.

Now the second challenge (maybe) is to pull the rear bushing carrier free from the steering rack bracket.
It is supposed to slide right out, but you might have to fight a bit.

My bushings weren't too hard to get off I didn't need heat or anything and they are still intact.

I was going to get the elephant polybronze bushings, but one of my rear carriers was out of round. For the extra $$ to get the elephant replacement rear carriers, it was the same price (bushings plus carriers) to just get the spherical bushings, so I got them instead.

Heres a pic:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1448932362.1.jpg)

[jack20]

I have done this twice recently, once at the track so it is not too bad.

loosen both front wheels (lugs)
Block rear and jack up front and support with jackstands on/near front body donuts, remove wheels.
Remove steering rack cover (2X large rear bolts, 2X front small (8mm?))
Jack up on spindle to take the load off of the balljoint.
Remove balljoint retention bolts (early vs late differ - one has a wedge bolt) one on each side.
See if you can get the balljoint to pull out of the strut (this will be the first challenge).

The first time I did this I had to pull the top hats loose from the shock tower mounts (will ruin your alignment , so make carefully first).
Then I was able to compress the strut and had more range of motion to wrestle the strut off the ball joint.
Once the strut comes loose, support it up out of the way, don't let any weight pull on the brake flex line.

Lower the jack and the control arm will just pivot down away from the car.
Mark the allen screws that are at the back of each control arm (tis sets your front ride height), then remove them completely from the rear torsion bar holder, then the rear holder will slide right out the back.
Loosen the front bolts that hold the control arm front carrier in, lower it and the torsion bar should be able to come out the back now.

Now the second challenge (maybe) is to pull the rear bushing carrier free from the steering rack bracket.
It is supposed to slide right out, but you might have to fight a bit.

My bushings weren't too hard to get off I didn't need heat or anything and they are still intact.

I was going to get the elephant polybronze bushings, but one of my rear carriers was out of round. For the extra $$ to get the elephant replacement rear carriers, it was the same price (bushings plus carriers) to just get the spherical bushings, so I got them instead.

Heres a pic:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1448932362.1.jpg)

Just the info I needed. Thank you!
Jack