Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Brakes
bd1308
post Mar 13 2005, 06:18 PM
Post #1


Sir Post-a-lot
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,020
Joined: 24-January 05
From: Louisville,KY
Member No.: 3,501



I have a 74 2.0 and I am wondering why my brakes suck. They work, but the stopping distance leaves something to be desired. I am thinking about changing my brake fluid first...is it a hard process or shoudl I just get someone to do that?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
CptTripps
post Mar 13 2005, 06:33 PM
Post #2


:: Punch and Pie ::
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,584
Joined: 26-December 04
From: Mentor, OH
Member No.: 3,342
Region Association: Upper MidWest



First thing I'd do is re-bleed the entire system. I always start in the back, then do the front. It's a 2-person job, so grab a buddy for 15min and start there.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
skline
post Mar 13 2005, 06:37 PM
Post #3


Born to Drive
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,910
Joined: 26-December 02
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Member No.: 17
Region Association: Southern California



Bleed them first going from the farthest one from the MC and work your way to the closest. If that doesnt work any better, check your pads, the next step after that is change the rubber hoses to braided steel lines to eliminate flex. The steps after that get more expensive. Upgraded MC, bigger brakes like BMW or Volvo and remove the proportioning valve.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
teenrookie
post Mar 13 2005, 06:45 PM
Post #4


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 114
Joined: 6-December 04
From: Yorba Linda, CA.
Member No.: 3,229
Region Association: None



I know about the BMW 320i brakes, but which Volvo brakes?

The BMW's need machining, is that true with the Volvo's as well?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Joe Ricard
post Mar 13 2005, 07:00 PM
Post #5


CUMONIWANNARACEU
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,811
Joined: 5-January 03
From: Gautier, MS
Member No.: 92



Porterfeild R4S pads. they rock!! if you can't stop with those I suggest hitting the weight room. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) 17mm Master cylinder gives more effcient fuid power advantage at the cost of longer pedal throw. 19mm Master cylinder requires more effort but gives shorter firmer pedal. Plus you will need to hit the gym again to get your non braking leg the same strength as the one you use for braking.
I got some BMW calipers for 30 bucks non machined. new pads. already painted rattle can red.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mueller
post Mar 13 2005, 11:40 PM
Post #6


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 17,146
Joined: 4-January 03
From: Antioch, CA
Member No.: 87
Region Association: None



QUOTE (CptTripps @ Mar 13 2005, 05:33 PM)
First thing I'd do is re-bleed the entire system. I always start in the back, then do the front. It's a 2-person job, so grab a buddy for 15min and start there.

nah...one persone job with a pressure tank.....what is nice is that it can be used on more than one vehicle, so buy it outright or talk a buddy into going in halfs with you...

Motive Pressure tank

(IMG:http://www.motiveproducts.com/images/PowerBleeder2.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Gint
post Mar 14 2005, 10:14 AM
Post #7


Mike Ginter
***************

Group: Admin
Posts: 16,076
Joined: 26-December 02
From: Denver CO.
Member No.: 20
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



It's a great idea to bleed your system and get ALL of the old fluid out of there. There are already some good instructions here.

Let me add though; Whatever you do, remember this!

Try not to let enough air back up through the rear lines that the bubbles reach the proportioning valve mounted in the front bulkhead of the engine compartment. If you do, you'll go from just bleeding brakes to trying to get the air out of the prop valve, and that just plain sucks.

And (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) about the Porterfields. On a stock 914 brake system in decent condition, you will not believe how well it will stop with the R4S pads.





James (teenrookie),

Welcome to the club! Kind of a chage of topic you have there. Start a new thread. OR better yet, that subject has been discussed a LOT in the past. Try searching the forum for BMW, Volvo, calipers, etc... Link to the search page here!

This post has been edited by Gint: Mar 14 2005, 11:41 AM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
7391420
post Mar 14 2005, 10:37 AM
Post #8


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 353
Joined: 6-August 03
From: boston, ma
Member No.: 988



Welcome to the club!

-When you bleed, remember that the front brakes have two bleeder screws each. I think you do the top ones first..but I'm not totally sure, either way, you need to bleed both.

-also check the Master Cyl, pull up the carpet, and remove the pedal floor board, if there's brake fluid back there, your MC is shot...

-I did a total brake re-build last winter, new MC, new flexable lines, new pads and rotors (all stock-zimmerman roters, etc..) the end result was a huge improvement in stoping power and feel. for street driving i've found it sufficient if not fairly impressive. if your calipers are decent, and bleeding doesn't help, re-doing the stock system isn't a bad option.. its not really pricey either, maybe $300-$350 for mc, 4 rotors, 4 pads, and flex lines.-also worth replacing the bleed screws if you go this far, I used speed bleeders and they worked well.

-Good Luck!

-Adam
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Mar 14 2005, 04:12 PM
Post #9


914 Idiot
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 14,990
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California



If you're flushing the fluid (replacing the old with the new), you can use the bottom bleeders. If you're simply getting the air out, you use the top bleeders. Air bubbles do rise, after all.

Don't forget the role your tires play in stopping: Brakes only stop the wheels from turning. Tires are what bring the car's movement to a stop. The more grippy your tires are, the more brake you can use.

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 28th May 2024 - 05:57 PM