I have a 74 2.0 and I am wondering why my brakes suck. They work, but the stopping distance leaves something to be desired. I am thinking about changing my brake fluid first...is it a hard process or shoudl I just get someone to do that?

First thing I'd do is re-bleed the entire system. I always start in the back, then do the front. It's a 2-person job, so grab a buddy for 15min and start there.

Bleed them first going from the farthest one from the MC and work your way to the closest. If that doesnt work any better, check your pads, the next step after that is change the rubber hoses to braided steel lines to eliminate flex. The steps after that get more expensive. Upgraded MC, bigger brakes like BMW or Volvo and remove the proportioning valve.

I know about the BMW 320i brakes, but which Volvo brakes?

The BMW's need machining, is that true with the Volvo's as well?

Porterfeild R4S pads. they rock!! if you can't stop with those I suggest hitting the weight room. 17mm Master cylinder gives more effcient fuid power advantage at the cost of longer pedal throw. 19mm Master cylinder requires more effort but gives shorter firmer pedal. Plus you will need to hit the gym again to get your non braking leg the same strength as the one you use for braking.
I got some BMW calipers for 30 bucks non machined. new pads. already painted rattle can red.

QUOTE (CptTripps @ Mar 13 2005, 05:33 PM)

First thing I'd do is re-bleed the entire system. I always start in the back, then do the front. It's a 2-person job, so grab a buddy for 15min and start there.

nah...one persone job with a pressure tank.....what is nice is that it can be used on more than one vehicle, so buy it outright or talk a buddy into going in halfs with you...

Motive Pressure tank

It's a great idea to bleed your system and get ALL of the old fluid out of there. There are already some good instructions here.

Let me add though; Whatever you do, remember this!

Try not to let enough air back up through the rear lines that the bubbles reach the proportioning valve mounted in the front bulkhead of the engine compartment. If you do, you'll go from just bleeding brakes to trying to get the air out of the prop valve, and that just plain sucks.

And about the Porterfields. On a stock 914 brake system in decent condition, you will not believe how well it will stop with the R4S pads.





James (teenrookie),

Welcome to the club! Kind of a chage of topic you have there. Start a new thread. OR better yet, that subject has been discussed a LOT in the past. Try searching the forum for BMW, Volvo, calipers, etc... Link to the search page here!

Welcome to the club!

-When you bleed, remember that the front brakes have two bleeder screws each. I think you do the top ones first..but I'm not totally sure, either way, you need to bleed both.

-also check the Master Cyl, pull up the carpet, and remove the pedal floor board, if there's brake fluid back there, your MC is shot...

-I did a total brake re-build last winter, new MC, new flexable lines, new pads and rotors (all stock-zimmerman roters, etc..) the end result was a huge improvement in stoping power and feel. for street driving i've found it sufficient if not fairly impressive. if your calipers are decent, and bleeding doesn't help, re-doing the stock system isn't a bad option.. its not really pricey either, maybe $300-$350 for mc, 4 rotors, 4 pads, and flex lines.-also worth replacing the bleed screws if you go this far, I used speed bleeders and they worked well.

-Good Luck!

-Adam

If you're flushing the fluid (replacing the old with the new), you can use the bottom bleeders. If you're simply getting the air out, you use the top bleeders. Air bubbles do rise, after all.

Don't forget the role your tires play in stopping: Brakes only stop the wheels from turning. Tires are what bring the car's movement to a stop. The more grippy your tires are, the more brake you can use.

--DD