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> I was given a Metal Lathe., Help me choose projects.
Series9
post Jan 8 2016, 08:35 AM
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I'll be turning that rotor again...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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MoveQik
post Jan 9 2016, 10:26 AM
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What size wheels can I fit?
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QUOTE(Series9 @ Jan 2 2016, 07:13 PM) *

My first thought is to turn some clutch pulleys out of brass. Do you have other suggestions?

Totally lame idea. It'll never work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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MoveQik
post Jan 9 2016, 10:27 AM
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What size wheels can I fit?
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QUOTE(VegasRacer @ Jan 5 2016, 08:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Series9 @ Jan 2 2016, 06:13 PM) *


My first thought is to turn some clutch pulleys out of brass.


Like this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

I'm sort of a pulley snob. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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914Bryan
post Jan 10 2016, 07:14 PM
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Lighten a flywheel
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Series9
post Jan 11 2016, 07:28 PM
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QUOTE(914Bryan @ Jan 10 2016, 08:14 PM) *

Lighten a flywheel



Okay, soon.

Right now I'm thinking, if I lighten a flywheel like I "lightened" that brake rotor, I might damage an engine....

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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r_towle
post Jan 11 2016, 08:49 PM
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Lol, bet it was fun though.
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toolguy
post Jan 12 2016, 11:07 AM
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Turning a brake rotor on an engine lathe is difficult at best in keeping both sides parallel. The problem is rotors are too damn big to get your cutter to both sides without unmounting the rotor and reversing it. Holding it on a regular chuck for both sides hasn't worked for me without a lot of set-up time with a dial indicator.

Best way is to use a 'faceplate', not a chuck to start.
Bolt the rotor to the faceplate using the flat surface where the car rim mounts. that way you are turning the back of the rotor parallel to the axis the rim spins on. .
Then reverse the rotor, mount the rotor surface you just cut to the faceplate. now turn the opposite side of the rotor. .
Theoretically both sides will be parallel and consistent with the axis of the wheel.
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Buckeye914
post Jan 12 2016, 03:52 PM
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I kinda just skimmed through this post but with that said, I would also suggest investing in quality measurement tools. 1" micrometers and nice 6" calipers from mitituyo or starret can be had for reasonable prices. and like others have said checking the runout of the spindle and chuck assembly is important if you plan on your parts being true. A dial indicator with a magnetic mount should get you running true in no time. And as many others have said safety is most important.
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veekry9
post Jan 12 2016, 08:04 PM
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Several factors in the machining of shafts.
1)The spindle rotates about it's center within 0.00005"/0.00008",under load.(the bearings are good)
2)The spindle is parallel to the bed in both axis.
3)The carriage moves true to the bed.
4)The cross feed saddle is square to the spindle.
5)The clearance gibs are adjusted to minimums.

A tuned instrument is needed to make a correct shaft,adjust the machine to do so.
Speeds and feeds for horsepower are the required knowledge.
Keep a table poster above the lathe for reference,noting the cutting(sfm) (Surface Feet per Minute)speeds.
A turned part in hardened metal can be finished to fine tolerances with these versatile attachments.
http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/tool_post_grinder.htm
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCLatheTPGrinder.htm
https://www.google.ca/#q=porsche+904+main+shaft
https://www.google.ca/search?q=spherical+tu...RFdCJEQ_AUIBigB
Learn something new every day,continuous learning.
Turning costs money,never turn for free.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

(edit:01/14/16)
Quote:post#9
toolguy
....If not set up properly, no matter what you do, your finished project will have taper and be out of square and off center.

Correctomundo.
Pretty basic geometry,the setting up and fettling of the machinetool defines the results possible.
Direct measurement and trial cuts are required,then your efforts will satisfy you and 'customers'.
Nowadays,the price of indexable carbide tooling makes their use standard,tungsten and cobalt hss is perfect for delrin and bronze.
The manual and drawings that came with the machine makes the repair and maintenance of it painless.
The design of the headstock bearing may allow refurbishment,grinding a tighter clearance on a spacer ring.
Make,year,model,ser# and the fx# of the manufacturer is handy.
Never do repair work on the machine while under power,lockout rules apply.
/
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Series9
post Jan 12 2016, 08:21 PM
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QUOTE(toolguy @ Jan 12 2016, 12:07 PM) *

Turning a brake rotor on an engine lathe is difficult at best in keeping both sides parallel. The problem is rotors are too damn big to get your cutter to both sides without unmounting the rotor and reversing it. Holding it on a regular chuck for both sides hasn't worked for me without a lot of set-up time with a dial indicator.

Best way is to use a 'faceplate', not a chuck to start.
Bolt the rotor to the faceplate using the flat surface where the car rim mounts. that way you are turning the back of the rotor parallel to the axis the rim spins on. .
Then reverse the rotor, mount the rotor surface you just cut to the faceplate. now turn the opposite side of the rotor. .
Theoretically both sides will be parallel and consistent with the axis of the wheel.



Excellent! These are points I had already decided would be necessary to perform this operation correctly next time.

I ordered another rotor, but I intend to "fix" this one until the three faces are parallel.

I have instruments and holders on order. First, I'm going to make sure the face of the chuck turns true and then proceed from there. I had planned to take the jaws out of the chuck and hold the wheel-face of the rotor against the chuck with the tail stock and a live center.

When I get the instruments, I'll measure the magnitude of my errors and report them for your entertainment. I can tell you the Vanagon is "interesting" to drive right now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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r_towle
post Jan 13 2016, 07:50 AM
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You might want to consider building a jig or faceplate that has lots of threaded holes in it to accomidate all the cars you work on, then you can reuse the jig for a few years
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worn
post Jan 13 2016, 01:49 PM
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I wouldn't worry too much - the projects have a way of finding you. One of the most useful tools in the shop. For example, I used mine to copy some of your ideas.

I have a few Popular Mechanics year book of projects dated from around 1940. I found them when my Dad passed away last year. They kind of just assume that any guy is gonna have a metal lathe. One article is how to build a complete gasoline engine from scratch - a small motor for a model something.

They also assume that you have a plentiful supply of Model Ts, from which they make an astonishing number of things.

My Dad saved his allowance and bought a Craftsman wood lathe in the 1930s. It is a good as the day it was bought. Plan on a lot of projects (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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veekry9
post Jan 14 2016, 08:10 AM
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Useful attachment to mill splines on axleshafts.
A multipurpose mill/turn machine.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=lathe+millin...AJfnkmXvAX6M%3A

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Series9
post Jan 14 2016, 08:54 AM
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QUOTE(veekry9 @ Jan 14 2016, 09:10 AM) *

Useful attachment to mill splines on axleshafts.
A multipurpose mill/turn machine.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=lathe+millin...AJfnkmXvAX6M%3A



Neat.
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mbseto
post Jan 14 2016, 04:09 PM
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This is NOT a beginner project and I'm not recommending to anyone, but I found it very educational in terms of what good custom lathe work looks like.
http://www.the-long-family.com/making_a_muzzle_brake.htm
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Mueller
post Jan 14 2016, 04:39 PM
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QUOTE(mbseto @ Jan 14 2016, 02:09 PM) *

This is NOT a beginner project and I'm not recommending to anyone, but I found it very educational in terms of what good custom lathe work looks like.
http://www.the-long-family.com/making_a_muzzle_brake.htm



Heck, that should be labeled NSFC...Not Safe For Californians , hahaha

Joe, when you get bored with it, convert it to CNC, I'm in the planning stages with my old Sebastian lathe to convert it... Motion Controller - KFLOP
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veekry9
post Jan 14 2016, 05:33 PM
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https://forum.linuxcnc.org/forum/index/
Proprietary boards and motors have their place in manufacturing,and there are a number of heavy machine companies doing business.
http://www.dipaolocnc.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IAHUy9A4U4
Very expensive though,you would have to have the work to pay for it.

The beauty of the Emc2,now LinuxCNC is that the development costs were borne by http://www.nist.gov/
to circumvent the bottleneck of the manufacturer's constraints.
A fella in Wichita converted a heavy 1960's 20hp Cincinnati 5X Mill to do aerospace,cheaply with great success,cheeply.
Some sweat equity is also a prerequisite,the geometry of the machine defining the expenditures.Big=$.

https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...etools+used+usa
The prices are dropping rapidly for burnt board machines. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Converting a manual machine to cnc poses additional,large hardware costs.

(edit)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn1bJ3YAQdI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxxdq6y8z8M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35tHYaDUmZQ


This is it,in action.
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Mueller
post Jan 14 2016, 05:51 PM
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QUOTE(veekry9 @ Jan 14 2016, 03:33 PM) *

https://forum.linuxcnc.org/forum/index/
Proprietary boards and motors have their place in manufacturing,and there are a number of heavy machine companies doing business.
http://www.dipaolocnc.com/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IAHUy9A4U4
Very expensive though,you would have to have the work to pay for it.

The beauty of the Emc2,now LinuxCNC is that the development costs were borne by http://www.nist.gov/ to circumvent
the bottleneck of the manufacturer's constraints.
A fella in KC converted a heavy 60's Pratt+Whitney 5X Mill to do aerospace,cheaply with great success,cheeply.
Some sweat equity is also a prerequisite,the geometry of the machine defining the expenditures.Big=$.

https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...chinetools+used
The prices are dropping rapidly for burnt board machines. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Converting a manual machine to cnc poses additional,large hardware costs.


I've done a few small CNC conversions from manual machines at home, I did a CNC retrofit a few years ago at work using Mach3, nobody likes it except for me and a few machinists.

No more low dollar retrofits for work, all new FANUC electronics or Delta Tau, a little more $$ but worth it in the end.
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Series9
post Jan 14 2016, 05:55 PM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Jan 14 2016, 05:39 PM) *

when you get bored with it......





(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) No pun?
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r_towle
post Jan 14 2016, 07:18 PM
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You should make a clock out of the rotor and hang it over the lathe......just cause
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