Just another 2056 build, Misc Questions Options

[sdoolin]

Yep, I am building a 2056. Have ordered very nearly a complete 2056 engine kit from Type IV Store (LN Engineering). Some questions (I have searched and read MANY threads)...

I have a "spare" 1976 VW Bus short block (no cyl. heads). Assume this will work for a starting point? Issues with oil dipstick? The bus was an automatic so I assume once I remove the "flex plate" that the flywheel from by 914 engine (in car) will bolt up to the crank without issues? Any issues with engine carrier? The bus used a "moustache bar" for mounting to the frame and I am hoping that the cases from the bus/914 are the same for engine mounting?

Will re-use existing Crank/rods
New crank/rod bearings
Will re-use existing cylinders (overbored)
KB 96 mm flat topped pistons with Hastings rings
Webcam cam (9130 kit from Type IV Store)
Type IV Store pushrods, pushrod ends, parkerized lifters, rocker shafts
Type IV Store cam bearings

Re-use rockers from bus engine? Not sure about this...

HAM (Len Hoffman) RS+ spec cylinder heads
New Oil pump from Type IV Store
New clutch & pressure plate.
Re-use flywheel from 914 engine (in the car)

Dellorto Dual 40mm carbs, CB Perf manifolds & linkage
SSI heat exchangers & Bursch exhaust
New fuel pump - will run return lines (have CFR SS Lines in car now and will re-use)

Not sure what dizzy to run?

I believe I need to check/verify deck height and valve clearance (I know how, just not positive this is required for a 2056 build).

I have read a few threads about "setting" compression ration, but do not understand it yet? Anyone have a compression ratio for dummies guide?

Anything else I'm missing?

Progress so far...

[sdoolin]

I found this on a shelf with 4 - 5 derelict Solex carbs for beetles (or something). I suspect it is either off this exact engine (1976 bus cases used in this thread), or my other bus engine (1979). When I first built the '79 (in 1986), I removed whatever dizzy was on it 'cause I was convinced that the 009 was the way to go. I spent years and years driving around a flat spot in that bus.

This likely needs some love, and I can send it out for service but wondering if it is more desirable (for driveability) than re-using the OE FI dizzy?

So my options now are:

1) re-use OE FI Dizzy
2) service this one (in the pics) and use it
3) run the 009 (not really an option).

As always all assistance appreciated...

[MarkV]

I have DRLA 40's and have never been able to see a vacuum signal from those 4 ports on the sides of the carbs. I have vacuum plugs on them.

The biggest improvement I ever got in drivability and performance was to get rid of my Bosch distributor and weak ignition coil. I was running a 050 with a blue coil. It had a flat spot off idle and it took a while to warm up and hold an idle. I switched to a Mallory dual point because they quit making the electronic version. I set it up with the gray springs and converted it to a Pertronix II with a Pertronix low impedance coil. No more flat spot and it will hold an idle sooner and it accelerates better than it did with the 050.

[sdoolin]

I have DRLA 40's and have never been able to see a vacuum signal from those 4 ports on the sides of the carbs. I have vacuum plugs on them.

The biggest improvement I ever got in drivability and performance was to get rid of my Bosch distributor and weak ignition coil. I was running a 050 with a blue coil. It had a flat spot off idle and it took a while to warm up and hold an idle. I switched to a Mallory dual point because they quit making the electronic version. I set it up with the gray springs and converted it to a Pertronix II with a Pertronix low impedance coil. No more flat spot and it will hold an idle sooner and it accelerates better than it did with the 050.

Strange about no vacuum from those 4 ports. There is also a 5th port on what I generally consider the right side carb. It has a rubber plug over it.

I don't think the Mallory as available any longer? I have been hoping someone has one on a shelf somewhere and would be ready to sell it to me...

[MarkV]

Strange about no vacuum from those 4 ports. There is also a 5th port on what I generally consider the right side carb. It has a rubber plug over it.

I don't think the Mallory as available any longer? I have been hoping someone has one on a shelf somewhere and would be ready to sell it to me...
[/quote]

The Mallory wasn't available when I bought mine either. The dual point is the same distributor only not electronic. They still sell a kit to convert a Mallory dual point to a Pertronix. The Mallory Unilite works on an LED which I have heard is more prone to failure than the Pertronix. The Mallory has a bigger cap with more distance between the leads and more robust bearings...It also has a built in adjuster for the range of advance that makes it easy to set up.

[sdoolin]

Pic of the engine installed from the top side. Pay no attention to the Brad Penn oil bottle crankcase breather apparatus. It is temporary (and it works). I will fabricate a proper crankcase breather box in the coming weeks.

Custom throttle cable bracket and linkage arm work great. Carbs are nicely synched and she idles very smooth from side to side and takes throttle smoothly also. Engine and transaxle have solid mounts from PO, I may change that. Even with solid mounts vibration not too bad with carbs synched well.

For now, she runs. Pretty well. Pulls stronger almost each time I drive her and if it weren't for the freak'n 009 dizzy I'd call this done! Heat works well and I will drive her all winter - in between salting and brining.



Oh, and my trunk light works. Never knew until tonight...

[sdoolin]

Going for another test/tune sortie...

[RoadGlue]

If the vacuum canister is working on the FI dizzy then you might as well just give it a light cleaning and see how it works before you spend time refurbishing it.

I thought for sure you'd get more input on this. The board must be in hibernation for the holidays.

[sdoolin]

Yes RoadGlue, I had thought that asking about which dizzy to use might attract us much attention as my "1mm step in the cylinder heads" bit from months ago. My plan is to re-use the FI dizzy with a light cleaning. I know it was functioning well on that engine.

My real desire is to understand if the dizzy pictured a few posts ago with the last digits of "205" stamped on it is a contender, if it might be better suited than the FI dizzy (2 vacuum posts), and if yes (it is a contender and better suited), I'll have it fully serviced - which is kinda pricey.

I will fit the FI dizzy soon and do some driving...

[sdoolin]

Removed 009 dizzy, installed OE FI dizzy. Timed to just about 32 BTDC at 3500 RPM. Better. Pronounced flat spot gone, but still a slight hesitation or flat spot at small throttle openings. I have 100 miles on it since the engine went back in. It keeps getting better with every outing.

Have discovered 2 small oil leaks, both of them on the cylinder head side at push rod tube seals. Very small to be sure. Disappointing. Somewhat expected, but still disappointing.

Have checked and re-checked snugness of all exhaust nuts/bolts (head and muffler side). All good.

For now I am going to just drive it. I filled up the gas tank and am going to burn through that this weekend (if the weather permits). At 500 miles I will drain the break-in oil, change the filter and pour in some Brad Penn 20W50.

Note that dual Dellortos running at WOT just about a foot behind your head are LOUD. Music to my ears, but LOUD. Many of you know this already...

[RoadGlue]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Okay, that's a good start! Until you get an AF meter on the exhaust you're going to be fighting unknown demons.

Have your rings seated yet? Are you running a head temp gauge?

Love the sound of four throttle bodies wide open inches from the back of your head.

Keep us updated!

Cheers,

Randy

[ericoneal]

Did I see you out on HWY 22 in Crestwood toda?. Startled me to see a 914 pass by me...

[sdoolin]

Did I see you out on HWY 22 in Crestwood toda?. Startled me to see a 914 pass by me...

Probably me. I put about 100 miles on the car today, all local and close to home (LaGrange, Buckner, Crestwood). I have the HP now to pass other cars at will. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[sdoolin]

On a short night drive last night and as I pulled up the driveway I lost all lights. Pulled into shop and switched it off, then tried to re-start. No luck, battery dead.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the super cool powder coating that I had applied to the alternator (generator(?)) bracket means that i am not charging while driving (or ever).

So, alternator (generator(?)) has to come out. This seems like it'll be a pain without removing the engine, I'll reconnoiter it over the weekend...

[RoadGlue]

Interesting. I don't think that the alternator is grounded through the bracket. Powdercoating them is common.

Did you install a new alternator? There's an issue wherein one of the binding posts inside newer alternators can touch and ground out on the stator cover. Might be that.

[sdoolin]

Interesting. I don't think that the alternator is grounded through the bracket. Powdercoating them is common.

Did you install a new alternator? There's an issue wherein one of the binding posts inside newer alternators can touch and ground out on the stator cover. Might be that.

I wouldn't have thought the PC would be an issue either. Did not use new alternator. Had one on the shelf, had it tested (positive) and used it. I'll start to troubleshoot over the weekend (I hope). Unfortunately while I am comfortable building an engine up from all of its component parts/pieces, the electrical systems baffle and frustrate me. I do own a reasonably good quality multi-meter so I guess I will break it out.

[BeatNavy]

From what I've read the alternators are normally grounded through the bracket and that this can be a problem unless you fashion a separate grounding path with a cable tied to somewhere else (e.g., fan housing).

It's a pretty simple check with a voltmeter to see if you're charging. Do some testing before fighting with the alternator. I had a battery that kept running down a few months ago that had me wondering if my charging system was working or not. Turns out alternator was fine. It was a bad parasitic drain from radio. Just a few checks with a multimeter helped isolate.

[RoadGlue]

From what I've read the alternators are normally grounded through the bracket and that this can be a problem unless you fashion a separate grounding path with a cable tied to somewhere else (e.g., fan housing).

Then I stand corrected.

You can probably snake a grounding cable through the tension adjustment panels to just see if grounding the alternator chassis starts the charging process. If it works, then route it stealthily underneath the car. Shouldn't require pulling the motor (thankfully).

[sdoolin]

Update on charging issue. Definitely was not charging, voltmeter across battery was 12V with engine running. Keep in mind that I powder coated the fan housing and both the alt. brackets. So just removing PC from the bracket(s) was not going to get it done.

I added a ground wire from one of the Alt cover plate bolts up the grounding stud located above the relay board. Charging again! What is strange is that I get more than 14V across the battery with my voltmeter, but the gauge in the car reads about 2V lower.

Now I am seeing a small oil leak from the rear of the engine. I hope it stays small or goes away (right....).

[Keith914]

What if any "gasket" solution did you use on the pushrod tube O rings? I am about to replace old pushrods with new Vicon O rings (recently carefully installed with engine oil lubrication only -- leaking!), with new pushrods and Vicon O rings. Much advice from engine builders who use Yamabond or similar vs. experts here who say just smeer with engine oil!!

[sdoolin]

What if any "gasket" solution did you use on the pushrod tube O rings? I am about to replace old pushrods with new Vicon O rings (recently carefully installed with engine oil lubrication only -- leaking!), with new pushrods and Vicon O rings. Much advice from engine builders who use Yamabond or similar vs. experts here who say just smeer with engine oil!!

I simply used the O-Rings that came with my gasket set (VR set). No Yamabond or RTV in my build(s). I smear a little grease on them for installation and make sure to use the wire pushrod tube "keepers" inside the rocker box. I am experiencing very small (and hugely disappointing) leaks from several of them.