Fist Timed AX Event, ...and I almost made it to the timing session! haha Options

[Alphaogre]

Well, on my second lap in practice two the motor cut out on my once I let off the gas. Once I got it to restart there was a noise that was new and should not be there, so I decided to call it a day. It was more disappointing because I was just starting to get final adjustments on the air pressure.

It was my least favorite course they have set up so far, usually there are more sweeping turns which helps me out in carrying speed, also there were at least 3 points of the course where my gearing just seemed to be a bit too short and made me rev out a little longer. As we know, this might as well be a parachute let out the back.

I'm not sure if this was what contributed to the motor failure but we will have to see when I look into it this week. At first we thought that maybe the distributer moved and the timing was off, but once we let it sit and got it running there was a new knock, im just hoping it is not a valve since I just got the 96mm 1911cc build up done about 4 months ago. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

After the end of practice session one, I notice I was having to keep the engine from dying when pulling back to my pits. I did not see any oil pressure light and the oil was right in the middle of the two lines on the dip stick. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

BTW: the yellow apex cones are not for my line, those are for the late brake, late apex and punch it new cars haha. Im the stay tight and carry as much as I can line (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La1ELOJAztE...eature=youtu.be

Car is a 1.7 with a short stroke build. 96mm pistons, same crank, machined 1.7 heads. dual down draft weber 44's, stock 1.7 lifters and valves, bosch distributer.Also, I am running Joe Gibbs Racing Air cooled 15W50 oil.

[Alphaogre]

Well it looks like the rod bearing is bad on cylinder #2 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

So, it looks like I will need to pull and strip the motor, Its funny because I didn't want to split the case and now I will have to, since I need to, i might as well get a new crank to go with that short stroke motor... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

We will see, Ill have to look at the costs. Any recommended cranks or upgrades to go with the 1911 short stroke build are welcome!

[Andyrew]

My recommendations are to take the crank out, get it inspected and polished by a local shop and have them get new bearings, then throw it back together and replace any seal you removed. You'll be back on the road in a month, not a year.

Its driving season!

[Alphaogre]

That would certainly be the cheapest way.

I am pulling the motor this weekend! Will have it stripped and to the shop by the end of presidents day weekend.

If everything is coming apart, would it be worth getting a 2.0 crank instead of just fixing the current 1.7 crank....that is the question!

Which would be more reliable? DRD (which is where I ordered the pistons) has cranks, and recommends a crank for the Short Stroke set up...

https://www.drdracingheads.com/xcart/Forged...ank-shafts.html

[ChrisFoley]

...
If everything is coming apart, would it be worth getting a 2.0 crank instead of just fixing the current 1.7 crank....that is the question!
...

Its really not that simple. Stick with the 66mm crankshaft and you'll be back on course in no time.

['73-914kid]

Chris,

Take the crank to Adrian (Headflow Masters). If the crank is trashed, I bet he won't charge you much for a good used crank, and then polishing.. I would stick with the 1911 personally.. the 2.0L crank means new connecting rods and Pistons..

Have you considered getting a tuna can or Adrian's oil pressure check valve? I'm wondering if the bearing failed due to loss in oil pressure at RPM?

[Alphaogre]

Chris,

Take the crank to Adrian (Headflow Masters). If the crank is trashed, I bet he won't charge you much for a good used crank, and then polishing.. I would stick with the 1911 personally.. the 2.0L crank means new connecting rods and Pistons..

Have you considered getting a tuna can or Adrian's oil pressure check valve? I'm wondering if the bearing failed due to loss in oil pressure at RPM?

Just so happens I got off the phone with Mike today and he mentioned the same exact thing.

I am going to pull the motor this weekend and take it to Mike on monday, he recommended doing Adrian's Oil Pressure Release kit, and oil pump since the case will be split anyway. We also talked about the tuna can option as well and possibly remote oil cooler to help keep temps down.

They were the original bearings, so its somewhat hard to tell if there was not fatigue from before since I didn't have them checked.

We will see how much damage to the crank there is, and likely have Adrian machine what is needed. He actually assembled the internals out to the heads when I did the piston upgrade.

[Alphaogre]

So I got the motor done and back in the car, so the arduous break in period begins!

So the cause was the retaining pin for the front bearing was not in there, so the seat for the bearing slowly shifted over and covered one of the oil circulation holes, which is why #3, the fist piston in line, was the one that had the baring go out. So work done to the motor before I purchased the car either did not put the retaining pin back in or it backed out which it should not have done.

Anyway, its all back together with a web 46 cam, new lifters, a oil pressure ball valve from head flow masters, and a high pressure oil pump. I also through on the front fiberglass bumper, Corbeau seat, updated 5 point belts, and door pulls...

So just over a month, but we had the wait for them to make the cam...

Mike at MRD did all the work and said the cam should give some more lower end grunt and just about 1k more of RPMs with actual juice. Should go nice with the 1911 short stroke motor.

[ThePaintedMan]

Very nice. I would still consider a tuna can though. I've thrown my car around on track and at AXs with fairly sticky tires and never seen the OP fluctuate with the can, even in long sweepers. An oil cooler probably isn't necessary unless you track it.

[Alphaogre]

Yep, that is also on the list. I am going to break it in then we will make some final adjustments add the tuna can with all new oil and dial in the carbs for the new cam.

[Randal]

Yep, that is also on the list. I am going to break it in then we will make some final adjustments add the tuna can with all new oil and dial in the carbs for the new cam.

I've always run tuna cans along with an Accusump unit. No failures. I hear lots of arguments about whether Accusumps work, but again my experience is no failures and 222 pulls 1.6G's

You might also want to mount a big red light and attach it to a low pressure oil sensor so the light lights up when pressure is low. I mounted mine after I had a oil cooler line burst and didn't know it blew until someone came up and said I was dumping oil on the ground. After that I mounted the big red light where I could see it clearly.

[Alphaogre]

I have a donor gauge and a taco plate to make a multi gauge and get some additional info on the motor. That is a good idea to have a large emergency light! Thanks

[Randal]

I have a donor gauge and a taco plate to make a multi gauge and get some additional info on the motor. That is a good idea to have a large emergency light! Thanks

And don't forget the Accusump, actually very cheap insurance.

[Alphaogre]

I am having trouble finding a "tuna can" for sale anywhere. I only come across old links that are dead or to forum discussions years old. Anyone have one or know where they can be picked up?

['73-914kid]

Type 4 IV engine -Mini Deep Oil Sump -tuna can kit Price: £45

I believe this gentleman had a group buy on these a while back on the world.. but they seem like a much higher quality part than the oil weltmeister Tuna Cans

[Alphaogre]

Type 4 IV engine -Mini Deep Oil Sump -tuna can kit Price: £45

I believe this gentleman had a group buy on these a while back on the world.. but they seem like a much higher quality part than the oil weltmeister Tuna Cans

Yea, I shot him an email and he just replied, I wasn't sure if he was still building them or there was an option on this side of the planet... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Just hoping to get it by AX in 2 weeks.

[Jetsetsurfshop]

Type 4 IV engine -Mini Deep Oil Sump -tuna can kit Price: £45

I believe this gentleman had a group buy on these a while back on the world.. but they seem like a much higher quality part than the oil weltmeister Tuna Cans

Yea, I shot him an email and he just replied, I wasn't sure if he was still building them or there was an option on this side of the planet... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Just hoping to get it by AX in 2 weeks.

May want to check with Chris Foley. I thought he bought a couple extras in the last group buy.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Alphaogre]

Type 4 IV engine -Mini Deep Oil Sump -tuna can kit Price: £45

I believe this gentleman had a group buy on these a while back on the world.. but they seem like a much higher quality part than the oil weltmeister Tuna Cans

Yea, I shot him an email and he just replied, I wasn't sure if he was still building them or there was an option on this side of the planet... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Just hoping to get it by AX in 2 weeks.

May want to check with Chris Foley. I thought he bought a couple extras in the last group buy.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

I just ordered one from Neil, he had a couple on hand, so its already in route!

[Alphaogre]

Tuna can arrived and going in tonight! Doesn't seem like much, how much more oil does it hold over stock? the 1.7 case holds just over 3 quarts.

From what I read on line, I think the tuna can adds about 1/2 a quart?

[VaccaRabite]

half a quart.

And it helps a TON. But you do have to think about it when going over speed bumps. It usually sits a hair under the engine bar, and tapping it with the ground with mess up your case.

Zach