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> Help!Is the stock EFI enough, 74 EFI ?'s
Gunn1
post Feb 15 2016, 04:07 PM
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One of these days you guys will give me some good news!....maybe....
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Gunn1
post Feb 15 2016, 05:26 PM
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More info!!!!!! The injectors are green (2.0 L) it has the 2.0 liter crank in it.

The fella that rebuilt the engine told me that he has done this (milled out the heads) many times and has never had a (underperforming)performance issue.

But in the interest of doing things the correct way, if I wanted a "True" 2.0Liter engine seems to me all I would have to purchase would be a set of 2 liter heads and a different set of runners, and a 2 liter air filter assembly.

Hmmmmmmm.

Maybe a Subaru or V8 914 is in my future....although it would be really great to keep it real.....air cooled boxer style!

Thoughts?
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TheCabinetmaker
post Feb 15 2016, 06:00 PM
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If you have a 2L crank, rods, cylinders and pistons you need the 2L heads. The 1.7 heads with stock valves the green injectors may not have enough air to properly burn the fuel.
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Bleyseng
post Feb 16 2016, 08:54 AM
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So with 1.7l heads bored out to fit 94's you do have a 2.0L but there is no way it will make 95hp without the real 3 intake stud heads. With that setup you might be making 85 hp...
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Gunn1
post Feb 16 2016, 07:48 PM
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After doing some more detective work on the car/engine and talking with some of the folks, they are now saying the heads are actually 1.8 liter not the previously purported 1.7 liter heads that were machined to fit the 2 liter jugs.

Curious how this development will affect things. I would guess while not the 2 Liter heads the 1.8 Liter heads are still better flow wise than the 1.7 Liter heads would be.

Are the 1.8 liter heads better flow wise or are the 1.8 and 1.7 liter heads the same and the difference in the displacement size determine by the different bore size?

So Many Questions.......................So little money

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r_towle
post Feb 16 2016, 08:39 PM
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The 1.8 heads will fit the 2.0 liter jugs with no machining required.

Now for flow, the 1.8 liter heads are basically the same casting as the 2.0 liter shape wise, but the ports are slightly smaller, and the valves are smaller.

They can be ported to match the 2.0 liter, and the larger valves could also be installed.

So, pull off the valve cover, get the part number off the head, that will help.

Aside from that, really.....who cares.
From what I recall, you have some welding to do....unless you are trying to sell that motor...
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Gunn1
post Feb 17 2016, 12:38 PM
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You are correct Rich....I do have a boat load of welding to do, starting with welding up a rotisserie for the car to be worked on.

But I, like many on this site can walk and chew gum at the same time....I am also focused on the engine and mechanical aspects of the car so that I can keep an eye out for parts that may come available over time. I am in no hurry, and want the car to turn out nice, so I am ready for this project to take some time.

I do appreciate everyone who has weighed in with their knowledge and advise.

Thank you...
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r_towle
post Feb 17 2016, 03:20 PM
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in the walking and chewing gum line of thought, if it was me, I would do this anyways.

I would remove the engine.
Remove all the engine tin for cleaning and new paint
I would clean the engine of any and all foreign matter in the fins.
I would replace all the oil seals.

Now, here you are, sitting with the long block on the bench.
You are about 20 minutes from removing the head...
I would do that.
Pull the heads, and measure up what you have...
Measure bore and stroke...and measure the valve diameter.

Rich
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