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> Optimusglen's build off challenge, 6-cylinders of goodness. Ready for my next cross-country trip.
Optimusglen
post Sep 20 2016, 01:51 PM
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Update time!

Since I can't use the new 5-lug front rotors/hubs I looked into and found a machine shop that can accurately drill out my existing 4-lug fronts. Figured I'd have them turn the rotors at the same time and looked up the spec to make sure they'd still be useable. No dice. Minimum is 10mm after turning, with a minimum worn state of 9.5mm. So I'll need to buy new front rotors and then have them drilled. This has been the biggest hang-up in the last couple weeks. I'll be able to order new rotors this Friday when my car fund is replentished a bit. New front bearings and seals are already ordered.

I measured the deck height and I'm getting .055" (averaged from 16 measurements in 8 places) From what I've read, I'l actually be able to run these cylinders without any spacer at the base. I will not be running a headgasket based off of Jake Rabys recommendation. Does this all sound right to you guys?

Of course, now I'll need to get the pushrods set up. The previous builder kept the stock pushrods I believe, and he spaced the rocker arm sub-assembly away from the head slightly with shims. Theoretically, I could keep the pushrods as they are and assemble the whole setup in the same way as it was before...

In other news, I was working in the garage last week trying to get the passenger side rear swingarm swapped. Trying to get the pivot rod out of the old arm, rubber bushings were really holding on. Seemed to be a bit tougher than the drivers side that I had done previously. Anyway, I managed to bash my hand with a 4lb sledge hammer. It didn't feel the greatest. Swelled up a little but it was manageable. Now I have a bump, maybe broke something? I dunno.

Finally, update posts are worthless without pictures, so here's a new illustration I had been working on.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c1.staticflickr.com-19709-1474401173.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1475501229.1.jpg)

Tweaked the color and sent some to print, if anyone wants one let me know. Prices and sizes are in my Member Vendors thread in my signature.
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raynekat
post Sep 20 2016, 08:50 PM
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Curious what the offsets (ET) or backspacing (measuring from the flange face to the inside rim) are for your 15x7 wheels?

I'm looking at getting a reproduction 15x7 R wheel that I hope is more offset to the inside of the car.

Thanks....
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Optimusglen
post Sep 26 2016, 08:24 AM
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I measured the combustion chamber volumes again and got the same results on all 4 pots. Same with deck height. Pistons, cylinders, and heads are bolted on. After I took the pic I also cleaned and assembled the oil pump.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1474899854.1.jpg)

As far as the wheels go, I'll check that next time I'm in the garage.
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Optimusglen
post Oct 3 2016, 07:24 AM
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More work. I was able to use the existing push rods with small shims under the rocker arm assemblies. Yes I remembered the tins that get installed before the push rods.

Seen lots of talk about what to use to seal the pushrod tubes. My bores for the tubes were incredibly clean so I just used some assembly lube on the o-rings. It's easy enough to take them out and try something else if those leak.

Carbs are just bolted on because I couldn't help myself.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1475501087.1.jpg)
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Optimusglen
post Oct 13 2016, 07:26 AM
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New front rotors arrived, got them machined yesterday for 5 lug studs and then pressed the new bearing races in and installed them. The unthreaded portion of the stud protrudes up from the contact surface between the wheel and rotor, and that unthreaded diameter doesn't fit with clearance in the wheel holes. So now I need to replace the studs, or open up the wheel holes a few thou.

Also rebuilt the master cylinder last night. Before you freak out, the bore was perfect so it was really just installing new ATE rubber seals.

I removed the pedal cluster to rebuild it and discovered that someone had already swapped bronze bushings into it to replace the plastic. Everything moved freely and sprung the right direction, so I just cleaned it up a little. I probably would have swapped in the new parts I have but the pin that needs to be pressed out was a real bugger. Worked on it for a bit and decided that it wasn't broken so why fix it.
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Optimusglen
post Oct 24 2016, 08:11 AM
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Progress since the last post:
-ordered a new oil cooler, received it, and installed it.
-started organizing the tins for cleaning, didn't clean them
-purchased new wheels studs, pounded old ones out, pounded new ones in, front wheels mount up cleanly

I started in on the brakes. I had removed the master cylinder and calipers before I had read to break the pistons free using the brake pressure. I guess I had just assumed the old air pressure trick would work.
It didn't.
So I had to use the messy method, a grease gun which happened to have the same threads as the caliper pipe input. It all came apart smoothly.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c1.staticflickr.com-19709-1477318315.1.jpg)

3 more to do. I put a feeler out for budget friendly yellow cad plating, but I'm not holding my breath. Since I no longer have hundreds of dollars to pour into this project I may have to find an alternative in the paint isle. It'll be clean though, i.e. black, silver, or if I can find something that looks similar to yellow CAD.

Now that the 5-lug swap is complete I can roll the fenders. The Eastwood fender roller "universal" bolt pattern doesn't extend all the way out to 130mm BC, which is why I couldn't roll the fenders when it was 4x130 using this tool. The local club that lends this out to members had an adapter made to bolt up to a Porsche 5x130 hub so now I'm all set. Except I'm not. Upon test fitment it looks as if my lug nuts (the long alloy style) are too long and protrude past the mounting surface for the tool. Today I'll buy 5 lug nuts that are lower profile and THEN I should be ready to roll.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1477318315.2.jpg)
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Mr.Nobody
post Oct 24 2016, 08:55 PM
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Car looks killer.

Not sure how I missed this thread. You used to be on the Vortex didn't you?
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Optimusglen
post Oct 25 2016, 06:52 AM
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QUOTE(Mr.Nobody @ Oct 24 2016, 09:55 PM) *

Car looks killer.

Not sure how I missed this thread. You used to be on the Vortex didn't you?


Thanks! And yes, still on Vortex/TCL actually.
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Mr.Nobody
post Oct 25 2016, 08:31 PM
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I thought so. Recognized your name and MKIV you did the welding on. I still peruse TCL occasionally. Lots of good info there. Actually the Vortex archives are phenomenal.

Nice looking 914 you got. I've had mine about a year and a half and love it. Really fun car.
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Optimusglen
post Oct 28 2016, 09:27 AM
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Thanks!

Ended up going with just a standard cast-aluminum type finish, from a rattle can. It is high heat paint at least. Color looks a little yellowish, but that's just from the lighting.

Opted not to remove the e-brake lever arms, but otherwise they're all disassembled. Bores had light corrosion that I was able to get off with some super fine steel wool, pistons the same. Calipers are all painted and ready for reassembly.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1477668425.1.jpg)

Ideally I would have stripped these down completely and had them re-plated, but time and money are no longer my friends.

On the bright side, the pistons all came out remarkably easy for having sat for so long.
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mb911
post Oct 28 2016, 11:47 AM
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Just an fyi your bumper is shipping today
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Optimusglen
post Oct 28 2016, 04:24 PM
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QUOTE(mb911 @ Oct 28 2016, 12:47 PM) *

Just an fyi your bumper is shipping today


Great! Let me know the tracking number when you can.
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Optimusglen
post Dec 5 2016, 10:23 AM
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Progress.

Finally got myself to pressure wash the tins the other day. Then hit them with a quick coat of paint.

Today I mounted most of them.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1480955033.1.jpg)

Then I spent most of the day cross legged in the engine bay with a bottle of purple degreaser, a small brush, and two rolls of shop towels.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1480955033.2.jpg)

After that I was able to install the new engine bay seals.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1480955034.3.jpg)

So much better.

Also ordered a new alternator, pretty soon the engine will be ready to go in!
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Cairo94507
post Dec 5 2016, 11:09 AM
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Terrific work. The engine will love living in that bay.
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Frankvw
post Dec 5 2016, 02:12 PM
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Wow, your engine bay cleaned up very nice. That must have cost some hours of dirty work !
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Optimusglen
post Dec 5 2016, 02:26 PM
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Definitely.

I sprayed it down with degreaser a couple days before to let it soak a bit, then just sat in there with a spray bottle, a small brush, and rolls of shop towels. It was dirty, and gross, and I had to wear a respirator so the fumes didn't kill me, but I knew I'd be thanking myself later.

Also inspected the "repair" done by someone in the past.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c2.staticflickr.com-19709-1480969566.1.jpg)

Fortunately the other side broke it's welds off clean. This side will be ground off with a cutoff wheel. I have access to an endmill and lathe after hours at work, so I will probably design and build my own hinges in the spirit of the J West hinges.
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Optimusglen
post Dec 8 2016, 09:24 AM
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Getting closer. Oil tower installed, rest of the tins installed, alternator and belt installed. Throttle linkage installed but not entirely set up yet. I want to dig back through the archives and find a thread I saw at one point talking about this style linkage.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c1.staticflickr.com-19709-1481210692.1.jpg)

As much as I would love to purchase new linkage that's more accurate, with a baby on the way the time frame and cash flow for this project are greatly diminished.

My wife convinced me to buy a new alternator instead of rebuilding mine, probably more to save time, but she's pretty awesome anyway. Just a shame it's hidden away.

I do wish I could have spent more time on the tins, sandblasting and powder coating, but I just can't do it. I need to get this in the car as soon as possible and since this will be a driver and not a trailer queen it's not a huge deal.

Also I cleaned up the thermostat a bit, looks like someone had spray painted or something.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c1.staticflickr.com-19709-1481210692.2.jpg)

I was going to look into rebuilding it following this article.
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html
But upon looking at my pic and the pics in the article, I think mine may be acceptable. I will measure it and test it to be sure.

Tonight I'll be installing the fuel hardline down the tunnel and then setting up the mixture of hard and soft lines getting it up to the carbs.
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raynekat
post Dec 8 2016, 08:54 PM
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Everything is looking super.
Especially that engine compartment.
Well done!
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FourBlades
post Dec 10 2016, 08:42 PM
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Great job on the project so far! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

John

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Optimusglen
post Dec 11 2016, 06:33 AM
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Thanks guys!

Yesterday was productive. Finished the fuel system. Hard and soft lines. And getting the power up to the front for the fuel pump. Chopped out the remains of the battery tray and the seized trunk hinge. There were some booger welds on the other side from where the other hinge broke off so had to grind those off too. Replaced both and decided to bolt the cups in and remove the tension springs. I will add gas struts later. Then I finished the pedal cluster and installed, and installed my master cyclinder, didn't have time to bleed the brakes though. New clear tubing down to the master, installed the feed pipes and tubing with new seals first, then fed them up through the holes.

I think next time I'm in the garage I will be sorting the engine mounts and installing the engine and transmission!
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