Optimusglen's build off challenge, 6-cylinders of goodness. Ready for my next cross-country trip. Options

[mepstein]

Glad you didn’t hurt yourself and your car is semi fine !

Yes, Wow. Dodged a bullet. Usually there is a lone tree or big boulder in the spot you go off.

[Optimusglen]

I had originally started a new thread for my 911T engine build, now I'm thinking it's better off that I link it back into this.

Cliff notes: I bought a 1971 911T core engine for a decent price. Turned over freely, but no history. Stripped it apart and was pleasantly surprised with just about everything. Case inserts already in place, everything measures out nicely except for the case bore which is off just enough that I need to get machine work. I had the heads all rebuilt and they have been waiting patiently on a shelf in my office. The case work stalled out while I diverted my "fun" budget to other things.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c1.staticflickr.com-19709-1524666330.1.jpg)

Ok, now you're up to speed. I finally decided it's time to get serious about this engine. I will be sending the case out to Ollie's in the coming week or two and to do that I needed to pull the studs.

I've read all sorts of stories about stud removal and decided to get one of these since I wasn't going to be re-using the studs.

Stud extractor by Ares tool
(IMG:http://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49483005043_ecbf91249d_c.jpg)

This thing made life so much easier, it took about 20 min to pull these 12. The rest I am going to do tonight then package it all up.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1580750021.1.jpg)

Over the past year or two I did sell off a few items to fund some software I needed for my art/rendering. I will be replacing these things once the case is done and the fund replenishes.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1580750021.2.jpg)


Onto the car!

Last fall when the temps were dropping I was trying to get the car out for one last romp, test the seat, fill it with fuel and then winterize it. It was a bit too cold and I couldn't get it going, and in the process I think I fried my old starter. It was the original item from when I bought the car so I knew the day would come eventually. So that means a new starter is on the agenda for this season. Ordered one from Eric at PMBPerformance.

If you have been following the thread you know that I have a front valance issue from my little "off". I was going to replace the LE style replica with another LE style replica, but am now considering going back to the factory panel as I still have it and it's in good shape. I do like the meaty look with no panel too, but would want to paint the visible bits black if I left it as-is. I also need new pads, the old/current Mintex pads (these were NOS, in the trunk of the car when I bought it) were a large contributing factor to that "off" so with some research I decided to go with what Eric at PMB recommends, the Porterfield pads front and rear.

I DID get the new seat from GTSClassics installed, I'm pleased with the fit and finish. I was going to take my maiden voyage with the new seat when I couldn't get it started. So the jury is still out in that regard. Install was straightforward though.

One final item is that I have a set of H4 headlights. I want to relay them when I install though so it wont be a simple plug and play.

[sb914]

Are those heads real ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) They look like one of you awesome renderings!

[Optimusglen]

Are those heads real ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) They look like one of you awesome renderings!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) They are real indeed! I brought them to the best local guy, he has a lot of experience with Porsche heads. Thankfully these were virgin, never touched by anyone other than the factory. New valves, guides, seals. I did buy a set of used springs. He tested them all they they were within spec and perfectly suitable for a stock 2.2T rebuild.

[rudedude]

Glen,
I put led headlights in Jasons car and you can't believe the light he has, much better than mine with relayed lights. Might want to think of using led's rather than putting in wiring and relays.
Jule

[Optimusglen]

Glen,
I put led headlights in Jasons car and you can't believe the light he has, much better than mine with relayed lights. Might want to think of using led's rather than putting in wiring and relays.
Jule

Do you relay the LED headlights too, or keep the factory wiring?

[mepstein]

Glen,
I put led headlights in Jasons car and you can't believe the light he has, much better than mine with relayed lights. Might want to think of using led's rather than putting in wiring and relays.
Jule

Do you relay the LED headlights too, or keep the factory wiring?

I used factory wiring with mine. LED's draw less amps so should be easier on the wires than stock.

[Optimusglen]

Found a local guy selling a 4 rib pump for my build. I'll be having the oil bypass mod done when it's at the machine shop. It has also been recommended to send out the pump to get rebuild/modded for flow by a good friend who has built several high end 911's.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1580879255.1.jpg)

[Optimusglen]

Project update:

-the 911 2.2T case is at Ollie's getting the work done. It did have head stud inserts, but we're opting to have those removed and they are going to do their case savers. Price was a bit higher than I was expecting after looking at their online price list, but the timeframe is also pretty long so it is giving me time to build the fun stuff budget up a bit before completely draining it, haha. Might be able to start engine assembly later this summer, and install it in the fall or winter.

-I purchased a tuna can from 914werke, I wish I had done it sooner. Maiden voyage after the install saw no decrease in oil pressure on back-to-back cloverleafs. I'm certainly very happy with it.

-I decided to take Jules (and others) advice and get the LED headlights from 914Rubber. I had purchased a set of H4 housings last year. At least I thought they were H4 at the time, turns out they were not (used, Craigsist deal from a Jeep guy I think) Discovered that when going for the install and just put all the stock parts back in until I can get the right housings.

-Haven't had a chance to install the Porterfield brake pads yet, but I did pick up some fluid so I can bleed the system at the same time.

-Pulled my old stock lower front valance out of deep garage storage, cleaned it up a little and plan on putting it back on for now. No use making it look perfect if the rest of the car is well patina'd.

-I picked up a laminated wood shift knob from TRE Motorsports. So far I like it.


Current short term plans:

-replace the dash face material again, this time yanking out the heater controls. I'd also like to recover the top dash. And I'm going to go with 3 Heuer timers for a bit, my daughter loves to play with them while we're driving (she's 3)

-recover the steering wheel again. I learned a lot of lessons when I did this one last year and I'd like to incorporate them into a new wrap.


For now, here are a few interior shots of how it is currently.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1588035994.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1588035995.2.jpg)


On the down side, yesterday while driving I ran into an issue with it. As a reminder it's a 1.9 built from a 1.7 running dual Weber IDF40's. I got on it a little from a light and after that the problem arose. The car idles way high, like 3k rising to 4k, I shut it down before it went higher. The strange thing is that the throttle pedal and cable are fine, and the throttles themselves on the carbs are closed. Any thoughts or insight is appreciated. I'm going to chew on it a few days before asking officially for help but I'm guessing I'm going to have to yank the carbs and figure it out.

[Optimusglen]

On the down side, yesterday while driving I ran into an issue with it. As a reminder it's a 1.9 built from a 1.7 running dual Weber IDF40's. I got on it a little from a light and after that the problem arose. The car idles way high, like 3k rising to 4k, I shut it down before it went higher. The strange thing is that the throttle pedal and cable are fine, and the throttles themselves on the carbs are closed. Any thoughts or insight is appreciated. I'm going to chew on it a few days before asking officially for help but I'm guessing I'm going to have to yank the carbs and figure it out.

Well, good news/bad news.

I purchased rebuild kits for the carbs, but then just didn't have any time to dig into it. Work is very busy right now. So I had it towed down to Further performance, they did the initial tuning on these carbs when I built it. They diagnosed the carb issue as a broken return spring really pretty quick, but when they started it is when they heard the issue.

I guess it had the terrible clack-clack that only comes from bad rod bearings. It was able to run but there was no telling how long it would be until the rods exercised themselves from the case a'la the Alien.

Now, since I have the 6 cylinder case at Ollie's due to be finished up in early July, it just doesn't make sense to put any effort whatsoever into the 4-cyl. This shop specializes in old aircooled VW's and Porsches and they said they could use it as a core, so they pulled it and stuck it on their shelf and I towed the car home sans-engine. They will put the value towards the tuning on the 6 once it's in the car.

The good news in all this is that it kindof forces my hand towards the swap. I had been working towards it but since the 4 had been running fine and it was still a blast to drive, I wasn't going hard after getting all the pieces in place.

The bad news is that it ends my driving season way early, in Minnesota the good driving months are few as it is already. Happy I got a couple good drives in at least.

I put together an updated list of the major things I still need to buy or do for the swap, and it's a bit daunting... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

-clutch,pressure plate, throwout bearing if needed
-oil tank and lines
-modification to be case mounted oil cooler for 914 fitment. plus cleaning and testing
-headers and modification of my muffler that I bought from Ben McFarland
-new alternator
-alternator fan shroud/duct (the inner air guide piece)
-clean/inspect/hone my cylinders and pistons, replace if necessary
-piston rings
-spark plugs,wires,distributor cap and rotor
-air filters and hats for the Zeniths
-throttle linkage
-engine tins

-get my oil pump rebuilt
-weld in my engine mount

-PUT IT ALL TOGETHER


...and on and on it goes.

[Optimusglen]

the 12 week mark has come and gone. I messaged Ollies and they said another 2-3 weeks. So we're looking at the end of July.

A friend locally (Aaron from FlatSix) is checking out my pistons and cylinders to gauge if I can reuse them with cleanup.

Tins from Ben McFarland arrived a day or two ago. look awesome and I cant wait to fit them.

Otherwise it's just been sitting in the garage slowly getting covered with dust.

[mepstein]

Make sure to measure everything you get back from Ollie’s. They’ve been having quality control issues for a while now.

[mepstein]

If you need an alternator for a rebuild, let me know. I have a core or two that I’ll send for the cost of shipping. I can have it rebuilt for you at my cost, usually $75-125.

[Optimusglen]

Make sure to measure everything you get back from Ollie’s. They’ve been having quality control issues for a while now.

Oh no, first I've heard of that. Isn't Ollie's the go-to for case work?

I don't have the tools to accurately measure bores, any suggestions on how to check it out?

And I don't have an alternator yet but I will need one at some point. I also don't know of anywhere to rebuild so I might have to take you up on that at some point if it's available in the future. Currently not enough car budget funds to go around to all the different things I need for this.

[mepstein]

Make sure to measure everything you get back from Ollie’s. They’ve been having quality control issues for a while now.

Oh no, first I've heard of that. Isn't Ollie's the go-to for case work?

I don't have the tools to accurately measure bores, any suggestions on how to check it out?

And I don't have an alternator yet but I will need one at some point. I also don't know of anywhere to rebuild so I might have to take you up on that at some point if it's available in the future. Currently not enough car budget funds to go around to all the different things I need for this.

The offer is available to you as long as I have the proper core for you. There's no money in selling cores so they sit in storage. Many places have alternator and starter rebuilding services. Ours is located at a large battery seller.

I've heard it from two well respected engine builders who got parts back from Ollie's that where well out of spec. The feeling is when the kids took over from the original owner, quality control has been low. They aren't measuring after machining so things are slipping through the cracks.
I'm no engine builder but I believe many builders will assemble the short block and torque the bolts as a dry run before sealant. I guess short of measuring you want to make sure everything spins smoothly. But any good machine shop should be able to give you written post machining measurements. But you probably have to request and not just assume.

"Neil Harvey" -
Can I assume you did not check the case or crank before reassembly?

Here are few things that need to be checked.
Main housing alignment and size.
Crank straightness. They never are.
Bearing ID fitted to the case and torqued.
Crankshaft journal diameter.
From these you can calculate the clearances.

You probably have other case issues you may not be aware of as well. The case should be thoroughly cleaned, the galley plugs removed, piston oiling valves checked, by pass checked if done, all perimeter studs removed and the case parting faces lapped before measuring main housing bore, all threaded bores checked and repaired, just to name a few.

This all adds up so don't be surprised at the final cost.

We line bore cases oversize only. We do not deck and bore back to std. We are probably a little more expensive than the other main players but we typically turn cases around in 1-2 weeks, which includes all the work listed above. We do this work in house for all of our engine customers and occasionally do outside work. We deliberately keep it this way so the turnaround time is days not months.

The more you do your self the less the total will be. Clean the case well, and remove the 8.00mm studs. This saves a lot of time and $$."

I would search pelicans engine building forum and read everything Neil Harvey has written. He talks a lot about what to do before you build.

[Optimusglen]

The 3 week mark has come and gone. I emailed Ollie's and it sounds like they're finishing it up soon. they say 2-3 days.

The 4-rib oil pump is freshly rebuilt and on a UPS truck right now.

Front 911 struts and hubs are ready to rock, getting a pair of Brembo calipers via Eric at PMB. Will need a new MC I think since I still have the 17mm unit in place.

I'm on Ben's list for an oil tank/filler, he will also be doing the 911 oil cooler modification for me, and we're going to work out all AN lines. No front cooler since it's a stock 2.2T

New clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and all related bushings/washers/felt thing etc are ready to roll.

MSDS headers on order, silver ceramic coated. Man I can't wait to see those. Should be shipping soon.

123Ignition distributor is here along with an MSD StreetFire, new coil, and a converter for the tach.


I have just about everything either ordered or I have it already. Just need to get my case back and start putting things together.

[Optimusglen]

Parts are arriving.

(IMG:http://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50217141931_9474de022b_b.jpg)
Ceramic coated 1.5" headers from Marty at MSDS

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1597208007.1.jpg)
my 4 rib oil pump rebuilt by Henry at Supertech Performance

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1597208007.2.jpg)
Case is back from Ollie's (don't worry, they sent the other half too)


Vents and jets are on their way for the Zeniths


Excited to finally start assembly!

[porschetub]

Parts are arriving.

(IMG:http://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50217141931_9474de022b_b.jpg)
Ceramic coated 1.5" headers from Marty at MSDS

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1597208007.1.jpg)
my 4 rib oil pump rebuilt by Henry at Supertech Performance

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1597208007.2.jpg)
Case is back from Ollie's (don't worry, they sent the other half too)


Vents and jets are on there way for the Zeniths


Excited to finally start assembly!


Glen ,case looks great and those headers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) .
What are your plans for the Zeniths?,cheers.

[Optimusglen]

Glen ,case looks great and those headers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) .
What are your plans for the Zeniths?,cheers.

30mm venturis, 55 idle jets and 130mm main jets. As a starting point. From there I'll have a bud of mine fine tune, or swap out jets as necessary. He runs a shop that specializes in these and old VWs and did my Type4 when I was getting my 914 going.

[horizontally-opposed]

So fired up for you, Glen!

The six conversion is something so many of us -4 owners have thought or dreamed about, and for all the anticipation and "I know" factor, even after riding in or driving someone else's, there is nothing like the first drive—and then all of the subsequent drives. It completely changes the character of your 914, and that transformation is maybe the coolest part. I miss the handling "flickability," but that's about it. The noises it makes, the power, and the specialness of having Porsche's most iconic engine in its lightest, best balanced production road-car chassis are impossible to overstate.

As you'll soon see…