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> Optimusglen's build off challenge, 6-cylinders of goodness. Ready for my next cross-country trip.
Optimusglen
post Aug 25 2020, 12:05 PM
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QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Aug 12 2020, 08:15 AM) *

So fired up for you, Glen!

The six conversion is something so many of us -4 owners have thought or dreamed about, and for all the anticipation and "I know" factor, even after riding in or driving someone else's, there is nothing like the first drive—and then all of the subsequent drives. It completely changes the character of your 914, and that transformation is maybe the coolest part. I miss the handling "flickability," but that's about it. The noises it makes, the power, and the specialness of having Porsche's most iconic engine in its lightest, best balanced production road-car chassis are impossible to overstate.

As you'll soon see…


@horizontally-opposed Thank you!

Kris and I were just talking about it the other night when he asked if I wanted to give his 911 with the new PMO's a drive. I declined, not because I didn't like the setup (how could you not like a '72 911 with that motor) I declined because the experience is never the same as when it's your own baby. That and all I can see are dollar signs on his tachometer.

Besides, after driving his car at one point in the past it only managed to cement the preference of the seating position and feel of a 914. Yep, I'm a lifer.

In project news, I spent a day cleaning, gauging and installing my rods last week. Somehow I think I only ordered 8 rod bolts way back when, so I had to order up a few more. The crank is now assembled with all of the rods but then I decided to order new chains instead of reusing my old ones. Old ones looked fine, I guess, but it's fairly cheap peace of mind.

I also ordered up a few misc items that I hadn't purchased yet, i.e. chain guides, locking tab washers for the oil pump, etc etc. So assembly of the engine will resume next week at some point when I can slip the crank, oil pump, and all related pieces into the case then button it all up.

In the handling arena there's some news as well.

I've always thought the stance wasn't quite right on my car. A touch too much rake. I have Bilsteins on the back but no adjustment other than the slots to reposition the base ring. I decided to jump into some Ground Control adjustable sleeves and higher spring rate springs (140#). Both for the adjustability and to handle the extra weight of the 6-cyl.

Up front I'll be sticking with the -4 control arms and 911 3" struts. But now a set of Brembo AM calipers from PMB Performance and a 19mm master cylinder from 914Rubber will be handling the braking.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1598378699.1.jpg)

I snagged a 22mm front sway bar on here a while back, sans hardware. In all likelihood that'll sit on the shelf until all of the big stuff is done or until I have to remove the tank for some reason.
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Optimusglen
post Sep 17 2020, 09:29 AM
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The engine build progresses.

The case is together with the important bits inside. Studs are installed. I went to start fitting my rings and discovered that I had the wrong rings. I had a set from Goetze purchased from FCPEuro that were supposed to be correct for the 911/07 but turns out the rings required for the KS pistons are different. So, returning the rings and purchased some others. I asked and looked all over, the only options were Deves and Total Seal custom rings. I took the advice of a very professional Porsche engine builder and friend and went with Deves because I have cast iron cylinders. I also used Deves in my 1911 and everything went smoothly there (until it didn't)

My bud Mikey over at this place called 914Rubber hooked me up. The air horns on my Zenith carbs were all kinds of crusty and he zapped them with his polisher and they're super fine now. Waiting on my inner venturis to get back to me to finish buttoning up the carbs then I'll snag some pics.

And the oil tank and filler neck arrived from Ben at 914-6werkshop.com It looks great and something that totally makes sense but I didn't think about until I opened the box was how much LIGHTER this new tank from Ben is when compared to the old Vellios tank I was going to build. If you've read further back, early on in the project I purchased two raw halves of a Vellios tank, I was going to make a project of it and have a local friend weld it up. Then I was going to have Ben do all of the tank. And then it just made sense to buy one of Bens tanks and sell the Vellios off. Glad I did!

(IMG:http://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50352731566_88f1770898_c.jpg)
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horizontally-opposed
post Sep 17 2020, 10:46 AM
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^ Never thought about the weight of Ben's tank. Curious how much different than the Vellios, and the stock tank for that matter.

Missed your post above, and 140# springs seem to be a sweet spot for street-driven 914s, fours and (small) sixes alike. They were always great in my car when it was a four, and I wondered about moving up to 160s when I put the six in but have not felt any need to do so. Maybe if I go to 215s in the rear at time point. We'll see.

I think you're going to like those Brembos, and I dig your chosen finish. Very tactical…
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Mark Henry
post Sep 17 2020, 04:38 PM
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QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Sep 17 2020, 12:46 PM) *

^ Never thought about the weight of Ben's tank. Curious how much different than the Vellios, and the stock tank for that matter.

Missed your post above, and 140# springs seem to be a sweet spot for street-driven 914s, fours and (small) sixes alike. They were always great in my car when it was a four, and I wondered about moving up to 160s when I put the six in but have not felt any need to do so. Maybe if I go to 215s in the rear at time point. We'll see.

I think you're going to like those Brembos, and I dig your chosen finish. Very tactical…


The weight difference would be negligible, I imagine less than 10#, the big difference (advantage) would be Ben's tank holds more oil.
Only way you'll fit 215 tires is by rolling/pulling the fenders. I have 205 and barely have a 1/4" space on stock '74 rear fenders. This is for both the 205/60-15 and 205/55, using both 6' Fuchs and cookies. Also 215 is an oddball size, if you think 205/60 is hard to find in a good summer tire compound the 215 may be next to impossible.

I have 160# springs, Bilstein's all round, Alfa Brembo's, full motion bushings (actually they're bearings) PMB V-calipers (stock with spacers, vented rears), stock rear sways and a 22mm Tarrett hollow sway bar. It's a real good set-up, if anything a little stiff for a street car, but totally acceptable. Only thing I'm going to do this winter is weld in an inner long kit.

IMHO your 140# springs will be fine.
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Optimusglen
post Sep 18 2020, 10:26 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Sep 17 2020, 05:38 PM) *


The weight difference would be negligible, I imagine less than 10#, the big difference (advantage) would be Ben's tank holds more oil.


Admittedly, I sold the Vellios parts before I thought to weigh them but I would guess-timate that it was right around the 10lb mark. It just felt significant to me. In the grand scheme of things that doesn't matter much especially since it's fairly centered front/rear, but weight is weight, and every little bit helps if you're trying to cut it out.

Speaking of which, I should probably cut dessert for a few weeks...
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Optimusglen
post May 13 2021, 04:01 PM
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Update time!

I've been making some good progress now that the weather has warmed up a bit.

Current status of the engine:
-got my hardware back from PMB with fresh clean plating
-the P's and C's are back on after some deck height adjustments
-Cylinder air guides are modified/cut to match the later style as described in Waynes book. Cleaned, painted with high temp black, and installed.
-a new-used fan shroud, new strap and alternator have been fitted
-today I finished going through the carbs and fitting the new jets and vents
-a couple weeks ago I tore apart the front end to prepare for the new 911 struts/brakes/hubs. Also installed new bushings
-spent an evening doing an initial cleaning on the cam housings. they're clean enough that I can work with them now (removing plugs, cleaning oil tube, etc)

Some pics

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1620943263.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1620943265.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1620943265.3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1620943265.4.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1620943266.5.jpg)

The bushings were a bit of a debacle. I ordered the 914Rubber bushing set that comes with the tools to install. I watched a few videos and read some DIYs. The fronts were straightforward and I got them on without too much hassle, when I got to the rears I hit a roadblock though.

It seems my '71 has a different suspension setup than every video and DIY I've seen. On those, the rear bushing cup is a separate part from the cross member. On mine, as you can see, it's integrated into the cross member and fully welded. Additionally, the torsion bar hole is smaller, meaning there's no way to use the "cone" tool that is supplied.

It was easy to install the rear bushing over the male portion of the control arm first, but when pressing into the cup it would swell out.

Alternatively, if you assembled it into the cup first it was also very easy, but then when pressing the control arm in it would mush the whole bushing down into the cup. On top of that, if you tried to use the cone it may press in, but there's no exit for the tool so the bushing couldn't go fully in.

We then tried going half/half and pressing together, but it would always slide up the control arm first and then swell out instead of go into the cup.

In the end, I ordered a set of polyurethane bushings. I fit them in the rear only by installing them into the cups first, then gradually removing a small amount of material from the ID until I had a good fit with the control arm. I assembled with the required lube and everything is nice and snug and smooth. I'm sure I'll be doing full 911 control arms and cross member at some point, so I'm not too concerned about the poly bushings.

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Optimusglen
post Jun 14 2021, 08:07 PM
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The build progresses. I have up to the cam towers finished currently, hoping to have the timing set by the end of the week and then button everything up.

It was a relief when I slid the cams into place and they turned freely. I had the case done by Ollies so I wasn't worried about that, but I didn't have the cylinders surfaced or anything, so there was a chance I'd have to pull it apart. I did have them inspected by a friend who has built several 911 motors for a living, but I'm not sure of the extent that he checked them, just that he gave them his seal of approval.

I rebuilt the original chain tensioners and plan to use those in conjunction with the safety collars.

I'm planning on driving the Overcrest Rally this September. The drive itself is in Utah, and I don't plan to trailer this out there. So it's going to have to be ready to spend several days on the road.

Not pictured, but I picked up a pair of Renegade Hybrids axels. My -4 axels were acceptable for tooting around town, but for a long trip I wanted the piece of mind.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1623722865.1.jpg)

I also finished installing the front suspension, 911 struts, Brembo AM calipers, and 19mm master cylinder. Bled the brakes (just the front so far) and dropped it down of the jack stands. Next up for the chassis is to install the new rear pads and push some fresh fluid through. Then the Ground Control springs and adjustable spring sleeves.

I brought my Zeniths to another friend (Dave Cheney, who also has a 914(faux 6) that's beautiful) who has a little business rebuilding carbs. I had assembled them, and felt pretty ok about them, but thought it wouldn't hurt to have someone check them out who knows more about what they're doing, hah! He's ultrasonically cleaning them and I hope to have them back soon.
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Optimusglen
post Jun 16 2021, 08:40 PM
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No pictures this time, but chain housings are on and cam gear alignment is complete, next up is cam timing!

I might try to sneak that in tomorrow, but I also have to wrap up a transmission service for my Land Rover, so we'll see how I'm doing after that.
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Optimusglen
post Jun 17 2021, 08:29 PM
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Big step, the cams are timed and the tensioners I rebuilt are in.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1623983394.1.jpg)
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mepstein
post Jun 17 2021, 08:34 PM
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Awesome
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Cairo94507
post Jun 18 2021, 07:24 AM
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Looking amazing. I like that you plan to drive it in September on a long trip. Driving these cars makes them better and better. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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Optimusglen
post Jul 21 2021, 02:28 PM
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Getting down to crunch time, I really need to be able to put a few thousand miles on this locally before the big drive.

The motor is really very very close to going in. A few small outstanding things and it's ready.

The biggest tasks left are mounting the oil tank and the engine mount.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1626899282.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1626899283.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1626899284.3.jpg)

My friend runs DymePSI, a custom fluid line outfit. I'm hoping I can get the oil lines between the engine and tank expedited... Fortunately, I won't be running a front cooler. It's just a stockish 2.2T so everything I've read says I'm fine with the engine-mounted oil cooler.
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Retroracer
post Jul 21 2021, 05:32 PM
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Are you running the phenolic spacers under the manifolds? They make a big difference and are worthwhile sourcing. Some of the build guides don't mention them, but from experience, watching clouds of evaporating fuel inches behind your head when stuck in traffic on a hot day CAN be a little disconcerting.....! The spacers stop the heat transfer to the carbs - a huge difference.

Very clean build Glen!

- Tony
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mb911
post Jul 21 2021, 07:47 PM
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QUOTE(Retroracer @ Jul 21 2021, 03:32 PM) *

Are you running the phenolic spacers under the manifolds? They make a big difference and are worthwhile sourcing. Some of the build guides don't mention them, but from experience, watching clouds of evaporating fuel inches behind your head when stuck in traffic on a hot day CAN be a little disconcerting.....! The spacers stop the heat transfer to the carbs - a huge difference.

Very clean build Glen!

- Tony

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

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Optimusglen
post Jul 21 2021, 10:13 PM
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The '71 911T Zeniths had a factory version of that spacer and yes, I am running them. Or I should say I will be, I ordered them a week ago from the bird and they are hung up on some other item on the order so I ordered a second set from Sierra and they should be here tomorrow.
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porschetub
post Jul 22 2021, 01:53 PM
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QUOTE(Optimusglen @ Jul 22 2021, 04:13 PM) *

The '71 911T Zeniths had a factory version of that spacer and yes, I am running them. Or I should say I will be, I ordered them a week ago from the bird and they are hung up on some other item on the order so I ordered a second set from Sierra and they should be here tomorrow.

Yep make sure you fit them,even with them on my carbs (same as yours ) they are low in the fuels bowls which I put down to heat soak and evaporation anyway,I just run the my fuel pump longer before starting so no issue if the car has been sitting for a while.
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Optimusglen
post Jul 22 2021, 03:22 PM
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I started preparing the car for the new motor. I was fearing the hole saws, having read that the task is somewhat of a bear, but it went really smoothly and all the holes were cut within an hour or so.

Lots I can/will clean up in here, but the big stuff will have to wait for the next phase of the project, bodywork. And that won't be happening before the drive this September. So I will deburr and dress the sheetmetal edges, but I won't be stripping any of the rust that has been starting or respraying anything.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1626988950.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1626988951.2.jpg)

Before I toot my own horn too much I should probably test fit the tank...


edit: I wanted to update this in case future readers find it in a search. When using the hole saws I found it easiest to drill the pilot hole with a stepped bit first, to make sure it's located right on center. Then I rested the pilot bit of the hole saw in that hole and before making contact between the hole saw and the sheetmetal I ran the drill up as fast as it went. Then just very light pressure so that the hole saw doesn't grab and rip out of your hands. Light and fast. Works like a charm and had all holes cut in 30 min without much trouble.
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Cairo94507
post Jul 22 2021, 03:35 PM
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Nicely done. Definitely test fit the tank, but it should slip right in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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raynekat
post Jul 22 2021, 04:47 PM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Jul 22 2021, 02:35 PM) *

Nicely done. Definitely test fit the tank, but it should slip right in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


Yes, can sometimes be a bear to install (six oil tank). It's tight in there.
Make sure you tighten up the oil line that comes out of the bottom of the tank before you install the tank.
Next to impossible to tighten it up when the tank is already in the chassis.
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Retroracer
post Jul 22 2021, 07:49 PM
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Also, FYI: I found this site really useful for prelim / static set up of carbs before first start after rebuild:

http://www.suggate.co.uk/zenith/new_site/a...es/article3.htm

..if you have seen it already. It was also good for understanding the balancing procedure once you're running. No affiliation,

- Tony
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