Optimusglen's build off challenge, 6-cylinders of goodness. Ready for my next cross-country trip. Options

[Optimusglen]

Cool.. I may try one of those in the future. I have the factory setup and it works but not as free as I would like.

I dunno... mine was too long even with all adjustments maxed. And the feel isn't as smooth as I was expecting. Maybe you're not supposed to run the pivot at the back of the carb with it? But then it seems way short...

[mb911]

Cool.. I may try one of those in the future. I have the factory setup and it works but not as free as I would like.

I dunno... mine was too long even with all adjustments maxed. And the feel isn't as smooth as I was expecting. Maybe you're not supposed to run the pivot at the back of the carb with it? But then it seems way short...

Just answered your other thread but the car I speak of had incredible smooth throttle. It did not use the pivot.

[Optimusglen]

I pulled the cable and tried a few different setups, I tried it without the bell-crank pivot and it was WAY too short. Eventually landed on an old SAE long socket placed over the cable tube as it exits the firewall, this acting as a spacer. Only then was I able to get it to line up.

I bled the brakes again since I had the line apart at the bulkhead. Once I wrapped that up I did a few other small housekeeping things on the underside and then put the wheels back on and lowered it down.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1629138653.1.jpg)

Then I rolled it back inside and adjusted the ride heights at each corner.

Still some wiring to do, and a handful of other things.

I'm a bit paranoid, so I'm going to disconnect the oil feed hose and try to flush it out to make sure there's no little bit of anything inside.

[mb911]

I pulled the cable and tried a few different setups, I tried it without the bell-crank pivot and it was WAY too short. Eventually landed on an old SAE long socket placed over the cable tube as it exits the firewall, this acting as a spacer. Only then was I able to get it to line up.

I bled the brakes again since I had the line apart at the bulkhead. Once I wrapped that up I did a few other small housekeeping things on the underside and then put the wheels back on and lowered it down.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1629138653.1.jpg)

Then I rolled it back inside and adjusted the ride heights at each corner.

Still some wiring to do, and a handful of other things.

I'm a bit paranoid, so I'm going to disconnect the oil feed hose and try to flush it out to make sure there's no little bit of anything inside.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) me as well. My car starts at such a low rpm it takes a split second to build oil pressure and that drives me nuts. But always want to be careful.

[Optimusglen]

I didn't want to keep worrying about it, so I pulled both ends off and ran a new plastic-coated steel cable with a piece of oil-soaked microfiber through the whole length of it, to pick up any loose bits that may have found their way in there. I was pleased with it and buttoned everything back up.

then I finished soldering the pins on the 12pin connector, and any other wiring that I had to do. Wiring is now DONE (excluding a 12v outlet that I may or may not add...)

I then filled the gearbox with oil and filled the oil tank/engine as well with my initial oil fill.

It's SO close now.

Tonight I'll get the alignment set (I can get it about 98% of the way there at home) and then maybe hook up the battery and start getting the distributor set up.

I also need to mark the flywheel with the TDC (and other marks) while it's all clean. Wish I did that before I installed the motor...

[mb911]

Oh very cool . I will be MIA for the next 4 days in Nashville but can't way to hear updates.

[Optimusglen]

I was going to start the alignment, then couldn't find my string, and spent 3 hours cleaning my garage. Eventually accepting defeat and went to bed.


Yesterday I used my $30 Amazon boroscope and made new marks on the flywheel, duplicating all the marks from the crank pulley. I'm using an early 911 flywheel so no conflicting marks to deal with.

I should have done this before I put the engine in...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-19709-1629465968.1.jpg)

Once that was done I went out and picked up a new battery and put it in. Rolled the car out on the driveway and hooked up the leads. No smoke or sparks so that was a good sign.

Turned the key and both oil temp and oil pressure gauges were pegged (without turning over) After some digging I discovered that I had the sender wires flipped, temp to pressure gauge etc. I straightened that out then both needles would sit at 0 just off the needle with the ignition on.

Cranked it over with the fuel disconnected and plugs out, turns smoothly. I did 4-5 30-second pulses, about 3 minutes apart. So far pressure gauge isn't moving. Then I discovered a small oil leak at the intermediate shaft cap area

[Retroracer]

Glen - that was a cliffhanger last post!!

Did the green oil light go out? re: gauge not moving, could it be the gauge not working or sender connection not making contact? If you ground the sender wire on the engine case, does the gauge flick to full scale?

How big was the oil leak - enough to stop pressure building up? How much oil did you put in the tank as initial fill?

- Tony

[Shivers]

Hahaha, it was a cliffhanger. Good Car-ma to you

[Optimusglen]

Glen - that was a cliffhanger last post!!

Did the green oil light go out? re: gauge not moving, could it be the gauge not working or sender connection not making contact? If you ground the sender wire on the engine case, does the gauge flick to full scale?

How big was the oil leak - enough to stop pressure building up? How much oil did you put in the tank as initial fill?

- Tony

I only have an oil pressure gauge and an oil temp gauge, no idiot light.

I'll check the wire/grounding next. I pinged a couple of Porsche engine builders I know and they both said it sometimes takes a while when only turning over with the starter.

The oil leak wasn't huge, but more than I'd like (which is zero oil leaks!)

The initial fill was 9qt.


I should note, I have an appointment at Further Performance for next Tuesday. They're the guys that tuned the Type-4 when I installed it, and they pulled the Type-4 out when it was done for. I enlisted their help for the first start and tune on the 6-cyl to have some experienced eyes and ears on it, and make sure the carbs are set and adjusted nicely.

I'll be climbing all over the car between now and then to make sure it's at a good starting point. Regarding the oil leak, I don't think it's big enough to warrant me pulling the motor right now, but when I drop the motor for the first valve adjustment I will definitely pull the intermediate shaft cover off, flatten the surface and re-install.

[Optimusglen]

Glen - that was a cliffhanger last post!!

Did the green oil light go out? re: gauge not moving, could it be the gauge not working or sender connection not making contact? If you ground the sender wire on the engine case, does the gauge flick to full scale?

How big was the oil leak - enough to stop pressure building up? How much oil did you put in the tank as initial fill?

- Tony

@Retroracer when I disconnect the sender wire from the sender it peggs without even touching the wire to ground.

I ran a standalone wire from the sender through the window and to the gauge and had the same result. I then tested the continuity from one end of the sender wire at the sender to the other end behind the gauge (both ends disconnected) and it was good.

Then I tested continuity between the disconnected sender wire at the sender, and the ground post in the engine bay, there was a connection there. This was with the sender wire attached to the gauge. I tried it again with the sender wire disconnected from the gauge and did not have a connection to ground.

My assumption then is that the oil pressure gauge is bad. Does anyone agree?

[nditiz1]

When you ground out the sender wire to the case does it peg? If so then the sender is bad.

[Retroracer]

re: "when I disconnect the sender wire from the sender it peggs without even touching the wire to ground."

So that sounds like you may have the wrong sender / gauge combo; NOT necessarily a bad unit. The stock 911T (press / temp) combo gauge and sender works as follows: If the sender is disconnected, the pressure reads zero; if you short the sender wire to GND the gauge should "peg" at full scale. The action of the sender is high resistance for zero/low oil pressure, lower resistance as pressure increases.

I'd suggest double checking the gauge <> sender match and wiring to the gauge before drawing conclusions. Adding the idiot light (if you have the dual terminal 911 pressure sender) is worthwhile as a sanity check; plus "eye catching" if you get a low oil pressure situation when driving.

- Tony

PS. feel free to PM me if you want to talk through debug

[Optimusglen]

I did verify that the sender and the gauge are both correct for a '71 911T

And that was my understanding on how it functions, which is why I thought there was a short to ground inside the gauge itself?


Also, I found the old pressure sender that came on the motor and tested that as well, with the same result as the new URO sender I was using at first.

I have another gauge from a friend I'll pick up tomorrow and see.

[targa72e]

good test for oil is to crack loose the cam oil lines at cam tower. You can then crank until you see oil seeping and know things are getting lubed as this is the last locations with easy access to get oil.



Some times takes longer cranking than you would think.



john

[Optimusglen]

good test for oil is to crack loose the cam oil lines at cam tower. You can then crank until you see oil seeping and know things are getting lubed as this is the last locations with easy access to get oil.



Some times takes longer cranking than you would think.



john

@targa72e I had a mild freak out when I looked at the diagram you posted, the 914 tank is plumbed differently.

I cracked the banjo on the 4-5-6 side cam tower and flicked the starter, lots of oil came out. So that's a good sign. I'm guessing my starter just doesn't turn the motor fast enough to register oil pressure on the gauge yet, at least for the stretches I gave it.

[rgalla9146]

good test for oil is to crack loose the cam oil lines at cam tower. You can then crank until you see oil seeping and know things are getting lubed as this is the last locations with easy access to get oil.



Some times takes longer cranking than you would think.



john

@targa72e I had a mild freak out when I looked at the diagram you posted, the 914 tank is plumbed differently.

I cracked the banjo on the 4-5-6 side cam tower and flicked the starter, lots of oil came out. So that's a good sign. I'm guessing my starter just doesn't turn the motor fast enough to register oil pressure on the gauge yet, at least for the stretches I gave it.

Glen I had the exact same reaction !
The bottom nipples are in opposite positions 911 vs. 914 6 tanks.....!!!!!
I've been around both for many years and never noticed.
Now I've got to go back to settle my nerves about my 911 thermo/ 914 6 GT cooler
plumbing.

[Retroracer]

I did verify that the sender and the gauge are both correct for a '71 911T

And that was my understanding on how it functions, which is why I thought there was a short to ground inside the gauge itself?


Also, I found the old pressure sender that came on the motor and tested that as well, with the same result as the new URO sender I was using at first.

One final thing is to check the connections to the gauge and make sure B+ and G (sender) are not swapped. Also that there is a case GND/chassis connected.

Good luck - you must be itching to get that thing running!

- Tony

[Optimusglen]

I checked using a known good gauge and had the same result, on top of that I still had an oil leak near the intermediate shaft cap, so this morning I dropped the motor again.

I'm going to pull the cap and resurface, check everything over up there and try to get it back in today.

My theory is that the oil leak is releasing any pressure that my little starter is able to build.

I did check and recheck wiring connections, and checked the sender wire itself for continuity and shorts.



Gotta get it back together today, I'm working tomorrow and my appointment to get it running is Tuesday!

[mb911]

My guess Is that you will not be able to read oil pressure with the starter. Only be able to see it with the idiot light. This is from many many 911 engine builds worth of experience.