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> home made engine lift
URY914
post Mar 28 2005, 08:44 PM
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The only problem with these super-cheap jacks is if they go bad, throw them away.
Some of the Harbor Freight jacks are the same. The seals suck, the piston is not polished to the same degree as a more expense one. They will probably lift engines and trannys for ever but you start lifting heavier stuff and they won't last.

I use a screw type tranny lift which I hope will last a long time. I got it at HF. It is a cheap POS but it has worked good so far. The casters are too soft (cheap rubber is soft) and it doesn't roll too well when loaded.


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ClayPerrine
post Mar 28 2005, 09:14 PM
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I have one exactly like that one. If you get the load off center, the back of the lift will come out of the track. I had to put a piece of allthread between the two plates to get mine to stay together. It also jams and won't go up or down when loaded with a 4 cylinder engine and trans. I won't try it with the /6


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bperry
post Mar 28 2005, 11:41 PM
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For those of us that are welder challenged, you can have this bad boy
for $78 at Sams Club. All aluminum, metal wheels, lowers to 5 inches
and raises to 17 inches.

--- Bill


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Dr Evil
post Mar 29 2005, 12:23 AM
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I wish you were my neighbor. That thing is awsome!
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Jeroen
post Mar 29 2005, 09:18 AM
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QUOTE (bperry @ Mar 29 2005, 06:41 AM)
For those of us that are welder challenged, you can have this bad boy for $78 at Sams Club.
All aluminum, metal wheels, lowers to 5 inches and raises to 17 inches.

Yep, that the one I really wanted...
Sparetime Toys posted his a couple of months ago

Can't find anything like it over here (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)
Only thing I could find was the ATV lift
Plus this stuff is so much more expensive here
The ATV lift goes for about €120 and the alu jack I got recently was €350 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif)
(and believe me, I did shop around quite extensively before I bought it)

It's way to heavy to ship across the pond, so I basically was out of options...

If I could have bought one off the shelf, I would
Still I had fun welding this thing together (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)
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porschenut
post Mar 29 2005, 09:41 AM
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The Harbor Freight tranny jack worked once for me before the threads got buggered. I still use all-thread on the crossbar mounts and lower it onto a skateboard.

Your custom is way cool though. Wish I could weld better
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URY914
post Mar 29 2005, 09:41 AM
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What is that capacity of that pretty boy?

Paul
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slivel
post Mar 29 2005, 10:13 AM
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QUOTE (ChrisFix @ Mar 28 2005, 06:33 PM)
QUOTE (slivel @ Mar 28 2005, 04:41 PM)
I've used this for engines, transmissions and most recently installing a double wall oven.  It's an ATV jack and I got it on sale at Kragen for  $49.95.

Steve

Have you used that ATV jack for removing a 914 engine, and did it clear the tranny. PEP Boys has it on sale for $45 and it seems like it is a pretty nice fit for engine drops. Would love to hear any user experience.

Didn't mean to burst Jeroen's bubble, but for those near a Kragen this ATV lift is a cheap alternative. I've used it to install my six and my 901 box - they fit OK. I used a piece of MDF on the jack under the gearbox and cinched everything down with a ratcheting nylon strap to be safe. It worked just fine. But my disclaimer is that I installled the engine separately first, blocked the flywheel end with bottle jack and wood and then used the ATV jack to slide the tranny in place. Haven't tried removing or installing the engine/trans as a unit. The ATV jack is rated high enough to handle the weight but the size might be an issue.

Steve
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andys
post Mar 29 2005, 10:34 AM
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Jeroens' got the right idea with those outrigger wheel locations. Problem with most of this stuff, is that they're too narrow once you get the engine/trans up high. If you're doing a V8, then I would be very apprehensive in using one. Funny though, that my Clymer's manual shows a pic of a /6 engine install using nothing more than a floor jack with the motor/trans precariously balancing some 3 ft in the air; WTF!

Andy
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SpecialK
post Mar 29 2005, 12:10 PM
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QUOTE (Jeroen @ Mar 29 2005, 07:18 AM)
QUOTE (bperry @ Mar 29 2005, 06:41 AM)
For those of us that are welder challenged, you can have this bad boy for $78 at Sams Club.
All aluminum, metal wheels, lowers to 5 inches and raises to 17 inches.

Yep, that the one I really wanted...
Sparetime Toys posted his a couple of months ago

Can't find anything like it over here (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)
Only thing I could find was the ATV lift
Plus this stuff is so much more expensive here
The ATV lift goes for about €120 and the alu jack I got recently was €350 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif)
(and believe me, I did shop around quite extensively before I bought it)

It's way to heavy to ship across the pond, so I basically was out of options...

If I could have bought one off the shelf, I would
Still I had fun welding this thing together (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)

What better way to hone your welding skills than actually making something functional! When I was practicing my welding on some scrap, all I ended up with is.....ummm...art!


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3d914
post Mar 29 2005, 01:02 PM
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Jeroen,

You're design is cool. It has one distinct advantage over the ATV lifts (which I've used more times than I care to count) - it clears the tranny. The Sams Club lift shown appears to do the same.

The ATV lifts have the piston at a steep angle and it has to go in at an angle to clear the rear hub. One solution is to place a furniture dolly on top of the lift - perpendicular to it. Slide the lift & the dolly under the engine/tranny, and lift the dolly to mate with the engine. You can make positional adjustments as needed. Usually the lift will be sitting between the rear hub & the body, with the dolly perpendicular across it.

When you lower the engine the lift has to roll backwards slightly to account for the radius of the supports. Once down the engine is on the dolly, so you slide the lift clear. You can now freely navigate the engine tranny on the dolly. Just don't drive to fast down the driveway with the engine on the dolly - as its not licensed!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/w00t.gif)

Enjoy!
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JmuRiz
post Mar 29 2005, 01:18 PM
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That's sweet, once it's all optimized, you should post some measurements etc, so we can make our own monsters (with the correct radius etc). Unless the rest of you think that Sam's Club one is good.
Then again you could always use the basketball meathod, haha.
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brant
post Jun 2 2005, 09:20 AM
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Nice Jeroen.. very nice.

brant
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maxwelj
post Jun 2 2005, 10:15 AM
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Of course, there is this one on e-bay.. allbeit a little pricey..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...4553528386&rd=1
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iamchappy
post Jun 2 2005, 10:25 AM
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I will let you know how the lift table works I plan on using it for the install.


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iamchappy
post Jun 2 2005, 10:25 AM
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lift


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sixnotfour
post Jun 2 2005, 11:51 AM
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Slight highjack; iamchappy, what kind of car lift is you're 914 on?
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iamchappy
post Jun 2 2005, 12:06 PM
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Dont know, some old service station lift I picked up for 350 bucks, degrease a little rustoleum paint and wire brush and it looks and works great. Looks like I will have to raise the ears for enough clearance for the lift table.
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watsonrx13
post Jun 2 2005, 04:21 PM
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QUOTE (slivel @ Mar 29 2005, 11:13 AM)
QUOTE (ChrisFix @ Mar 28 2005, 06:33 PM)
QUOTE (slivel @ Mar 28 2005, 04:41 PM)
I've used this for engines, transmissions and most recently installing a double wall oven.  It's an ATV jack and I got it on sale at Kragen for  $49.95.

Steve

Have you used that ATV jack for removing a 914 engine, and did it clear the tranny. PEP Boys has it on sale for $45 and it seems like it is a pretty nice fit for engine drops. Would love to hear any user experience.

Didn't mean to burst Jeroen's bubble, but for those near a Kragen this ATV lift is a cheap alternative. I've used it to install my six and my 901 box - they fit OK. I used a piece of MDF on the jack under the gearbox and cinched everything down with a ratcheting nylon strap to be safe. It worked just fine. But my disclaimer is that I installled the engine separately first, blocked the flywheel end with bottle jack and wood and then used the ATV jack to slide the tranny in place. Haven't tried removing or installing the engine/trans as a unit. The ATV jack is rated high enough to handle the weight but the size might be an issue.

Steve

Well, I bought the ATV/motorcycle jack and TRIED to use it this weekend to remove my engine/tranny... IT DOESN'T WORK The bracket that surrounds the bottle jack gets in the way underneath the tranny. Don't waste your money if you're going to use this specifically to remove/install the engine/tranny combo. But, it works great after the engine/tranny is out of the car and you're working on it later. BTW Steve, thanks for clearing up your 'successful' use of this jack, for the life of me, I couldn't figure out how you used it....
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iamchappy
post Jun 2 2005, 04:58 PM
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Believe it or not the best lift I have used to put the engine in is a hoist, I have used just about everything atv, jack, now the lift table. But the boom engine hoist is the easiest as it swings around the engine and you can tip and tilt it and effortlessly control the engine . I have the stock six mount and getting that little bugger mounting nub in and under to install the bolt is tough on a jack or ATV lift. The only thing bad about using the hoist for me is I have to drag it up a hill from behind the shed in the back yard.
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