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> Overheating, Engine / Cooling
ash00
post May 5 2016, 10:27 AM
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Exactly!

I thought the whole point of venting is to vent towards ambient..but that raised the red flag initially.

Im going to have to pull the motor for sure. Lets see if my boss lets me take Friday off.

Things to check:
1) Flaps and positioning: If they are closed, and I can't piece together the hardware to make it adjustable - is it better to just leave them open (increasing warm up time)?

2) Oil pressure switch: Check condition

3) Routing of the EMPI breather

4) Overall inspection of everything

5) Once back in: Adjust timing and check carb jetting/vacuum check
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rhodyguy
post May 5 2016, 10:35 AM
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The foam element in the BB traps the vapors. Oil puddles in the bottom of the box and it drains back to the engine. If your heads have the vent tubes, you can use them as the flow back route for the puddled oil.
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ClayPerrine
post May 5 2016, 10:41 AM
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I have lots of sets of cooling flaps for your motor. If you pay the shipping, I will send you a complete set for free.

But I don't have any thermostats. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

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stugray
post May 5 2016, 11:16 AM
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QUOTE(ash00 @ May 5 2016, 08:28 AM) *

Looks like I need to go into the classifieds and look for those thermostat and flap parts. Are they all the same for engine size (1.7, 2.0)?


I believe I have a complete extra set of flapper & thermostat parts.
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SirAndy
post May 5 2016, 12:13 PM
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QUOTE(era vulgaris @ May 5 2016, 08:34 AM) *
How is it breathing without some way to vent?

The breather box is supposed to have a gap on the top lid to allow for venting. There should be a foam piece in the box that traps the oil vapors and lets the oil drain back into the case with the engine off.
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ash00
post May 5 2016, 12:21 PM
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Wow- you guys are incredible! I love how supportive the vintage car community is, like the ones for my bmw 2002's and mini's, as compared to new cars which bash you for modifications that aren't to "their" liking. Cheers to that!

I would be more than happy to purchase the entire flap/thermostat kit from anybody + shipping. Please email me at aashish.dalal@gmail.com.

Thanks!
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Cracker
post May 5 2016, 12:21 PM
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Man. You AC guys make it so complicated... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

T
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ash00
post May 5 2016, 12:23 PM
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I have to take a look at the wiring in detail also... just noticed that he wired the electric fuel pump to jumper from the ignition coil +.

I'm probably scratching the surface with the flap issue. Wish me luck!
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SirAndy
post May 5 2016, 12:36 PM
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QUOTE(ash00 @ May 5 2016, 11:23 AM) *
I have to take a look at the wiring in detail also... just noticed that he wired the electric fuel pump to jumper from the ignition coil +.

Unfortunately not that uncommon ...
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This should help:
http://www.914world.com/specs/SirAndyCarbFuelPumpRelay.php
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rhodyguy
post May 5 2016, 02:06 PM
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That is the best way to power your carb pump. The stock pump circuit will work but you may need to change the wire end to spade terminals.
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ash00
post May 5 2016, 02:07 PM
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Silly question -

I have a full machine shop / welding / fab equipment - but before I use all that and add to the time variable, how do you guys hold the trans/motor when its out of the car? Are there any engine cradles or such for these that I can buy? I can't believe this'll be the first time out, but will also need one for my 65 bus.
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rhodyguy
post May 5 2016, 02:11 PM
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Get a furniture dolly at Home Depot or the like. Block it up with dunnage. Easy to move by yourself.
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ChrisFoley
post May 5 2016, 02:25 PM
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Engine Lift Plate

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ash00
post May 6 2016, 04:53 PM
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HI all,

Maybe I'm missing something here, but it looks like I can take off the tin shroud by the flap area off with the engine still in the car. I can visually inspect of the flaps are closed, open our or even there.

Is there something I'm not seeing?
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stugray
post May 6 2016, 05:11 PM
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QUOTE(ash00 @ May 6 2016, 04:53 PM) *

HI all,

Maybe I'm missing something here, but it looks like I can take off the tin shroud by the flap area off with the engine still in the car. I can visually inspect of the flaps are closed, open our or even there.

Is there something I'm not seeing?


The front half of the fan shroud is very difficult to split when it is completely off the car. you would have to remove all three engine tins (I think) and the alternator.

Then you would have to split the halves leaving one side behind.
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era vulgaris
post May 6 2016, 05:33 PM
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I think he's just talking about the two main tins over the cylinder banks so he can visually verify that the flaps are there. I've heard people say it's doable with the engine in the car.
I don't think you'd have to split the shroud to install the flaps, do you? Maybe I'm wrong?
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ash00
post May 6 2016, 05:45 PM
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Yes, sorry for the confusion..just for the tins and inspection of the flaps. I tried to use a scope through the hole but it still wasn't clear

Another shot in the dark, but if there is no shaft, how would you couple the flaps? The previous owner said they were "permanently" closed. I don't know if you can just put them in there loosely without any connection.
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SirAndy
post May 6 2016, 06:16 PM
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QUOTE(ash00 @ May 6 2016, 04:45 PM) *
I don't know if you can just put them in there loosely without any connection.

You can but it's going to be ugly. I once bought a "rebuild" 2.1L engine that had the flaps glued(!) in there with gobs of god knows what and then they forced a bunch of sheet metal screws through them and into the surrounding shroud/tin for good measure.
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stugray
post May 6 2016, 06:46 PM
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QUOTE(ash00 @ May 6 2016, 05:45 PM) *

Yes, sorry for the confusion..just for the tins and inspection of the flaps. I tried to use a scope through the hole but it still wasn't clear

Another shot in the dark, but if there is no shaft, how would you couple the flaps? The previous owner said they were "permanently" closed. I don't know if you can just put them in there loosely without any connection.


Oh sorry.

Yes you can remove the passenger side engine tin with the engine in.
It's a PITA and you have to manhandle the front tin a little, remove the intake manifold and the distributor. Some of the wire harness goes through that tin as well, but if you just want to look under, you wouldnt have to pull those wires out.

And I found the shaft with the drivers side flap attached, the passenger side flap, and two thermostat brackets, the pulley and maybe a intact piece of cable.
I think the only thing I am missing is the little arm that connects the shaft to the pass. side flap. Still looking.
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Porschef
post May 7 2016, 08:08 AM
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Ash, I'm gonna have to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with all who've suggested pulling the engine. Looks like now is the time to do it right, drop the eng/tranny, and take a little time to assess everything; I'd be very surprised if you didn't find a couple other things to correct.

How does it shift? If not great, change all the bushings. Get Tangerine's firewall unit, makes a big difference.

Are the push rod tubes leaking at all?

Any exhaust leaks?

CV joint condition?

Speedo cable? More importantly, clutch cable?

Factory nylon fuel lines? Get RID of those, replace with stainless steel.

Very nice offers from Clay and Stu, take them up those, make sure you have everything you need before diving in and you'll have an opportunity to rectify a whole bunch of stuff. The engine drop is not a big deal (so simple I can do it) and you'll learn tons of valuable information about your car. And your not gonna want to drive the car as it is now anyway.

Good luck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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