 Tie-rod replacement question |
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| SKL1 |
 May 30 2016, 04:50 PM
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#1
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Senior Member  Group: Members Posts: 1,602 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest 
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Replacing tie-rods after getting the new ones discussed here elsewhere.
Working on the first one on driver's side- when turning the castellated nut on top the whole thing turns. Thought about trying to put some pressure on the shaft with vise grips but the shaft and nut still turn as a unit... Any ideas? I'm stuck before I've almost gotten started!  |
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Replies(20 - 25)
| whitetwinturbo |
Jun 1 2016, 03:08 PM
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#21
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Honey, does this wing make my ass look fat? Group: Members Posts: 1,391 Joined: 22-October 11 From: Newport Beach/Kalefornya/USA Member No.: 13,704 Region Association: Southern California |
HELP. I can NOT find any torque numbers/threads for this one time ball joint nut. A little bit of nail polish over the thread/nut will prove up no moment once fully torqued.
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| whitetwinturbo |
Jun 1 2016, 03:30 PM
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#22
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Honey, does this wing make my ass look fat? Group: Members Posts: 1,391 Joined: 22-October 11 From: Newport Beach/Kalefornya/USA Member No.: 13,704 Region Association: Southern California |
HELP. I can NOT find any torque numbers/threads for this one time ball joint nut. I have seen 33-37 foot pounds ... but that seemed to be for older style castle nut. A little bit of nail polish over the thread/nut will prove up no moment once fully torqued.
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| Java2570 |
Jun 1 2016, 03:53 PM
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#23
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 649 Joined: 7-May 11 From: Fishers, IN Member No.: 13,035 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I believe I used about 35 ft-lbs when I did mine....that lock nut is a similar size to the old nut. I'd personally rather have the cotter pin/nut setup over the lock nut.
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| SKL1 |
Jun 1 2016, 04:03 PM
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#24
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,602 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest
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Just finished putting the turbo kit on- just like the Pelican DIY said, getting those damned rubber bellows on each end was the toughest part, especially on the side with the brake MC in the way.
Finally got it done, and my tow isn't even that far off!  |
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| jim_hoyland |
Jun 1 2016, 04:05 PM
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#25
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,302 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California
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Got my TTRs today from Importec; now to get the PB blaster out... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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| 914_teener |
Jun 1 2016, 04:40 PM
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#26
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,198 Joined: 31-August 08 From: So. Cal Member No.: 9,489 Region Association: Southern California |
Ok...it's the ADD thread of TTR.
I think the OP's question was addressed. I'll take a stab at the other questions ect....sorry if this confuses everyone more. Nice toe-plate BTW. I would make sure that the ball joint is seated into the strut arm if you are going to use the jam or nylock nut. Possible method. Use the old castle nut to force it down and or to double check...measure the distance from the bottom of the tie rod end to the top of the thread less the thickness of the strut arm. This will assure you that it is seated. The original torque setting for that type of nut is irrelevant since the setting was speced for the other nut. Make it tight seated and lock tite it for good measure and you should be fine. Check it every once and awhile. Jim......good luck with the install. Let me know if you need any help. I think the OP was going to replace his stock tie rods with stock replacements...or so I thought. Rob |
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