Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
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Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 26 2016, 08:35 PM
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Can anyone divulge details on the Renegade Hybrid radiator system such as dimensions, Inlet and outlet sizes and rad type (number of rows, if cross flow etc...). Is it even allowed ;-)?
This hot summer has proven that my system cannot handle it. I have some good components such as a 2000 cfm, 9 blade fan out of a Ford Taurus. The remote mechanical water pump is a standard R.H. unit. I also have a Griffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap (inlet=1.5" and outlet=1.75"). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25241-x The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". it is a 2 row unit. Although the inlet/outlet sizes are different, the hoses carrying coolant from front to rear are all the same size at 1.25 inch diameter. The Tech rep at Griffin seems to think that the rad should be fine but I ain't no 4 core unit either. The other part of this is the car has a Chalon kit installed. I question whether the bumper opening for rad air is sufficiently sized. The opening is ducted to the bulkhead opening. The inner fender walls are fully open to allow the air to exit. From all that I've read; the viable solutions is to either go with a RH rad setup (or as close to as possible) and/or go with an electric water pump. I think I have some (most) of what RH would sell me as there rad kit. The only difference I can see is the rad size/type and the bumper opening size. Pictures of my current setup can be found here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...132273&hl=# I feel like I am close to getting this figured out. Just a bit more tinkering is needed. Thanks! |
veekry9 |
Jul 27 2016, 12:59 AM
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#2
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OldMember Group: Retired Members Posts: 3,068 Joined: 17-June 13 From: TO Member No.: 16,025 Region Association: Canada |
A restrictive cooling system will overheat,in spite of good airflow.Testing the pump's capacity,against a simulated restrictor,will give the actual numbers.
Air entrapment is the usual suspect,or culprit,another is the pump's rpm.A simple change to a smaller diameter pulley may be sufficient. A serpentine path of coolant hoses,with high points,will trap air,and restrict flow. A remote expansion and overflow tank is needed at both ends in the typical installation for that reason. The low point in the system should be at the center of the wheelbase,both ends rising steadily from there to opposite ends. The inclusion of two tanks is to allow the waterborne steam bubbles to escape the system at each end. "Rob Kozak: In your case you can run it any way you want. I run Hilborn on my MG with a Hilborn front cover and cam driven fuel pump. We run a Jabsco "water puppy" boat 12volt water pump plumbed into theports where the original SBC water pump bolted Jegs and Summit both have fittings that bolt on and take AN fittings. The return comes out of the Hilborn manifold and goes back to the radiator. BUT this year Hilborn had port in the back of the manifold and I utilized them by making a cross over hose. I don't know if its any more efficient but it does work as far as flowing is concerned." http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads...diagram.464209/ http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0504-...ng-system-info/ http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/water-pumps/ http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/...ic-water-pumps/ http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-d...in/0408sc-pump/ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Go with the flow.The photos clearly show the hoses as much larger than 1-1/2",to allow the unimpeded flow of glycol/water mix. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) / |
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