Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
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Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 26 2016, 08:35 PM
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Can anyone divulge details on the Renegade Hybrid radiator system such as dimensions, Inlet and outlet sizes and rad type (number of rows, if cross flow etc...). Is it even allowed ;-)?
This hot summer has proven that my system cannot handle it. I have some good components such as a 2000 cfm, 9 blade fan out of a Ford Taurus. The remote mechanical water pump is a standard R.H. unit. I also have a Griffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap (inlet=1.5" and outlet=1.75"). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25241-x The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". it is a 2 row unit. Although the inlet/outlet sizes are different, the hoses carrying coolant from front to rear are all the same size at 1.25 inch diameter. The Tech rep at Griffin seems to think that the rad should be fine but I ain't no 4 core unit either. The other part of this is the car has a Chalon kit installed. I question whether the bumper opening for rad air is sufficiently sized. The opening is ducted to the bulkhead opening. The inner fender walls are fully open to allow the air to exit. From all that I've read; the viable solutions is to either go with a RH rad setup (or as close to as possible) and/or go with an electric water pump. I think I have some (most) of what RH would sell me as there rad kit. The only difference I can see is the rad size/type and the bumper opening size. Pictures of my current setup can be found here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...132273&hl=# I feel like I am close to getting this figured out. Just a bit more tinkering is needed. Thanks! |
Chris914n6 |
Jul 27 2016, 01:35 AM
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#2
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Jackstands are my life. Group: Members Posts: 3,307 Joined: 14-March 03 From: Las Vegas, NV Member No.: 431 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Post pics of the whole system please.
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BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 27 2016, 01:57 PM
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#3
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Here are some pictures I took today.
The holes in the shroud are new... as a test top see if it made a difference. I think it did because in the past (with no holey shroud), it did not matter how cold it was outside; the temp would always go to 200 and beyond (have a 160 t-stat with bleed holes drilled and the fan is set to turn on at 180). After cutting the holes in the shroud, the temp would stay at around 180 (acceptable) although it was when it was cooler outside. Now in this 100 degree weather... it does not matter... it still get to 200 and beyond). The extra fans are from a Toyota 4-Runner AC condenser units and were mounted there temporarily to see if they made any difference in assisting the main fan exhaust air from the front area (they were wired to push air out). They did not work. What if I could place the radiator more vertically to allow a larger area in front of it (then shroud it too). Would that help any? Also; my temp sensor is mounted in a port right next to the t-stat/intake manifold. Post pics of the whole system please. Attached thumbnail(s) |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 29 2016, 08:22 PM
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#4
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
So; Iv'e been looking at the replies along with photos else where on this site. Let me know what you think...
1. I want to add a header tank and overflow to the front (radiator) side of the car. I will attempt to place it higher than the top of the rad. 2. In my pictures, note that I have T's on the HP and LP (High Pressure & Low Pressure) hoses near the radiator to carry coolant to the cabin blower/heater core. Also note that there is a petcock located on the top right side of the radiator. 3. I want to connect the bottom port of the expansion tank to the lower radiator hose somewhere/somehow in the front trunk area. Does it matter... between the rad and the heater core T or between the heater core T and the front trunk floor where the coolant hoses go under the car. 4. I want to connect the side port of the expansion tank to the rad petcock as my HP connection. 5. in the engine compartment; I will remove the (bad so bad (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)) filler neck and replace it with a straight pipe/hose coupler. Good so far? What else in regard to adding a header tank? I read someone say to duplicate the setup in the engine bay. Over kill? Someone wrote about installing a 3/4 inch washer (somehow) in the HP hose right where the HP hose connects to the rad. How and why would you do that? Anyway... my steps 1-5 a good place to start? Here are some pictures I took today. The holes in the shroud are new... as a test top see if it made a difference. I think it did because in the past (with no holey shroud), it did not matter how cold it was outside; the temp would always go to 200 and beyond (have a 160 t-stat with bleed holes drilled and the fan is set to turn on at 180). After cutting the holes in the shroud, the temp would stay at around 180 (acceptable) although it was when it was cooler outside. Now in this 100 degree weather... it does not matter... it still get to 200 and beyond). The extra fans are from a Toyota 4-Runner AC condenser units and were mounted there temporarily to see if they made any difference in assisting the main fan exhaust air from the front area (they were wired to push air out). They did not work. What if I could place the radiator more vertically to allow a larger area in front of it (then shroud it too). Would that help any? Also; my temp sensor is mounted in a port right next to the t-stat/intake manifold. Post pics of the whole system please. |
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