Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
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Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 26 2016, 08:35 PM
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Can anyone divulge details on the Renegade Hybrid radiator system such as dimensions, Inlet and outlet sizes and rad type (number of rows, if cross flow etc...). Is it even allowed ;-)?
This hot summer has proven that my system cannot handle it. I have some good components such as a 2000 cfm, 9 blade fan out of a Ford Taurus. The remote mechanical water pump is a standard R.H. unit. I also have a Griffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap (inlet=1.5" and outlet=1.75"). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25241-x The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". it is a 2 row unit. Although the inlet/outlet sizes are different, the hoses carrying coolant from front to rear are all the same size at 1.25 inch diameter. The Tech rep at Griffin seems to think that the rad should be fine but I ain't no 4 core unit either. The other part of this is the car has a Chalon kit installed. I question whether the bumper opening for rad air is sufficiently sized. The opening is ducted to the bulkhead opening. The inner fender walls are fully open to allow the air to exit. From all that I've read; the viable solutions is to either go with a RH rad setup (or as close to as possible) and/or go with an electric water pump. I think I have some (most) of what RH would sell me as there rad kit. The only difference I can see is the rad size/type and the bumper opening size. Pictures of my current setup can be found here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...132273&hl=# I feel like I am close to getting this figured out. Just a bit more tinkering is needed. Thanks! |
veekry9 |
Jul 30 2016, 07:52 AM
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#2
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OldMember Group: Retired Members Posts: 3,068 Joined: 17-June 13 From: TO Member No.: 16,025 Region Association: Canada |
The lines to the header tanks at each end are pressurized,1/4" will do. One from the top of the rad,another at the rear,both higher than the cylinder heads. The overflow/expansion tanks also that high,tho not necessarily. Any 'camel humps'in the lines will make a restricting vapour lock,limiting the flow. The hot line from the engine goes to the top neck on the rad,the low neck is the return to engine. Another consideration,verify that the return line is not collapsing from the pump's low pressure side. The electric pump idea is a good one,as an auxilary,for those highway jams,running airconditioning. The mechanical/vacuum/electric valve for the heater core is on the hot side line,for when you have the air on. The front header tank can be placed up high,near the base of the windshield. Wrapping and heatshielding the headers,and adding the two fans into the engine compartment,will knock down the heat there much better. That will dissipate the rad's requirements too,the LS radiating massive btu,the engine fan usually doing that job. Perhaps you're running cats as well as resonators and silencers,as the exhaust temps are then higher. Oil cooling in CA is a good idea too,pulls more heat out,allowing longer oil life. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) / Ducts,get some duct. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...q=duct+air+flow https://www.google.ca/search?q=auto+radiato...tom+intercooler https://www.google.ca/search?q=auto+radiato...kZaa68wJiJxM%3A https://www.google.ca/search?q=composite+du...4nIdm18YCE6M%3A (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) / |
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