Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
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Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 26 2016, 08:35 PM
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Can anyone divulge details on the Renegade Hybrid radiator system such as dimensions, Inlet and outlet sizes and rad type (number of rows, if cross flow etc...). Is it even allowed ;-)?
This hot summer has proven that my system cannot handle it. I have some good components such as a 2000 cfm, 9 blade fan out of a Ford Taurus. The remote mechanical water pump is a standard R.H. unit. I also have a Griffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap (inlet=1.5" and outlet=1.75"). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25241-x The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". it is a 2 row unit. Although the inlet/outlet sizes are different, the hoses carrying coolant from front to rear are all the same size at 1.25 inch diameter. The Tech rep at Griffin seems to think that the rad should be fine but I ain't no 4 core unit either. The other part of this is the car has a Chalon kit installed. I question whether the bumper opening for rad air is sufficiently sized. The opening is ducted to the bulkhead opening. The inner fender walls are fully open to allow the air to exit. From all that I've read; the viable solutions is to either go with a RH rad setup (or as close to as possible) and/or go with an electric water pump. I think I have some (most) of what RH would sell me as there rad kit. The only difference I can see is the rad size/type and the bumper opening size. Pictures of my current setup can be found here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...132273&hl=# I feel like I am close to getting this figured out. Just a bit more tinkering is needed. Thanks! |
v82go |
Jul 30 2016, 10:45 AM
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#2
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Resident Contrarian Group: Members Posts: 249 Joined: 9-December 04 From: Lakeland, Fl. Member No.: 3,250 |
Hi
The puke tank is pressurized and since being higher than the block and radiator it is also where I fill the system, the radiator is a no fill type (no cap) and has a bleed petcock. I bleed the radiator when first filling and keep my tank about half full. It seems to self bleed. Some of the newer fords have a similar system with a plastic pressurized puke tank. And a pic or 2 for Chris. (sorry for the hijack) My last v8 car had the fender wells cut-out and while it worked, I think this does a better job with no weakening from the cut-outs and no hot air on your brakes. I cut the hole in the hood with my 4" grinder (cut-off wheel). I framed it in underneath with thin 1" flat bar tacked in and 4 studs to hold the perforated aluminum panel in. Bob Attached thumbnail(s) |
Andyrew |
Jul 30 2016, 01:06 PM
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#3
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,376 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Hi The puke tank is pressurized and since being higher than the block and radiator it is also where I fill the system, the radiator is a no fill type (no cap) and has a bleed petcock. I bleed the radiator when first filling and keep my tank about half full. It seems to self bleed. Some of the newer fords have a similar system with a plastic pressurized puke tank. And a pic or 2 for Chris. (sorry for the hijack) My last v8 car had the fender wells cut-out and while it worked, I think this does a better job with no weakening from the cut-outs and no hot air on your brakes. I cut the hole in the hood with my 4" grinder (cut-off wheel). I framed it in underneath with thin 1" flat bar tacked in and 4 studs to hold the perforated aluminum panel in. Bob Thats a clean install! I also found that the hood exhaust to be much more efficient than the fender exhaust. I however prefer the look of the clean hood so I went back to it a while ago. |
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