Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
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Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 26 2016, 08:35 PM
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Can anyone divulge details on the Renegade Hybrid radiator system such as dimensions, Inlet and outlet sizes and rad type (number of rows, if cross flow etc...). Is it even allowed ;-)?
This hot summer has proven that my system cannot handle it. I have some good components such as a 2000 cfm, 9 blade fan out of a Ford Taurus. The remote mechanical water pump is a standard R.H. unit. I also have a Griffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap (inlet=1.5" and outlet=1.75"). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25241-x The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". it is a 2 row unit. Although the inlet/outlet sizes are different, the hoses carrying coolant from front to rear are all the same size at 1.25 inch diameter. The Tech rep at Griffin seems to think that the rad should be fine but I ain't no 4 core unit either. The other part of this is the car has a Chalon kit installed. I question whether the bumper opening for rad air is sufficiently sized. The opening is ducted to the bulkhead opening. The inner fender walls are fully open to allow the air to exit. From all that I've read; the viable solutions is to either go with a RH rad setup (or as close to as possible) and/or go with an electric water pump. I think I have some (most) of what RH would sell me as there rad kit. The only difference I can see is the rad size/type and the bumper opening size. Pictures of my current setup can be found here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...132273&hl=# I feel like I am close to getting this figured out. Just a bit more tinkering is needed. Thanks! |
Chris H. |
Sep 19 2016, 12:16 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,029 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Yes just fill the system up and run it through a couple of heat cycles. Make sure it's all sealed up so that the system is pressurized. Put the blue cap on and make sure all the hoses are attached just like it would be if the car was 100% ready to drive. Although it may seem logical to leave a line open, it keeps the system from forcing the air out. Rev it a few times the first time to make sure your thermostat opens and feel the line going to the radiator to make sure they are hot. Watch the temp needle (at least the first time) for spikes in case you have a big air pocket. Get the engine up to temp and then shut it off. Then..(the hard part)....leave it alone and let it cool off completely. When you check the coolant the level should be down a quart or so. Maybe more. A couple more like that and you should be good. In fact once you know that you don't have any serious bubbles you can drive it around a block or two. Then very quickly you won't have to add any. BTW I never got anything out of my radiator bleeder either. Probably would now but the system is bled.
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